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FrozenGate by Avery

The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.






Has anyone found a source for 2mm fluorescent green rubber inserts for these Kryton Grooves? I was able to order fluorescent green rubber seals but can not find the rubber inserts in that color. I didn't expect it to be so difficult to find them.
 
i know some people found them on ebay as well as other sources. it was mentioned a long time ago in a couple of posts.

As for the connector, a little residual solder doesn't hurt the connector, in fact i have a very slight coating on the pins of my diode for a little tighter fit, and the slight movements issue can be easily solved using electrical tape or a more recent find, a little silicone glue... a small bead under the connector holds it in place no problems.

as for the corrosion, i doubt youll have any issues, these are the same type of connectors used in toys, calculators, RC's, and computers.. given the stuff that these other things would go through i'm thinking that by the time the connector corrodes your laser or components will be shot long before then.

at any rate jsut saying what ive found to work nicely, As an alternative bonus, if you have multiple heads for the kryton or, for jay rob's builds, extra modules with the diodes pressed in, the connector makes for a simple swap out for the diodes.. not saying its practical but the same connector can be used in a similar fashion for driver swapping as well, or if you have a BR and a A140 working at the same amperage
 
You can even buy diode sockets!!!

DSCN2572-b.jpg
 
There are a few 5.6mm diode sockets available from different manufacturers the last time I looked (a few months ago).
 
Sockets = bad. practice soldering some LED leads to some scrap wires and then just do the job right. Why put in a point of potential failure for no reason?

Removing and reinstalling the head over and over is not a good idea. The design of the groove makes it necessary to twist the wires connecting the diode (or socket if you so choose) several times (I believe 4 complete rotations) It's possible to do that once with little chance of pins shearing or coming undone but over and over would wear things a little thin for my comfort.

As far as corrosion, if you so choose to use a socket, I suggest dielectric grease. It will seal the connection from the air (and thus corrosion) but it will still allow a connection.

xStatiCa - are you talking about the rear clicky or the o-rings? I believe you can get both from dealextreme. The o-rings are the 20mm ones. The rear clickys are "14mm silicon tailcap covers"

I'm not sure about the rubber inserts for the side though...
 
I already have the fluorescent green o-rings from dealextreme. I just need to locate fluorescent green rubber inserts for the side. After searching for 30 minutes the only thing I could find is fluorescent yellow.
 
Pontiacg5 said:
Sockets = bad. practice soldering some LED leads to some scrap wires and then just do the job right. Why put in a point of potential failure for no reason?

Removing and reinstalling the head over and over is not a good idea. The design of the groove makes it necessary to twist the wires connecting the diode (or socket if you so choose) several times (I believe 4 complete rotations) It's possible to do that once with little chance of pins shearing or coming undone but over and over would wear things a little thin for my comfort.

As far as corrosion, if you so choose to use a socket, I suggest dielectric grease. It will seal the connection from the air (and thus corrosion) but it will still allow a connection.

xStatiCa - are you talking about the rear clicky or the o-rings? I believe you can get both from dealextreme. The o-rings are the 20mm ones. The rear clickys are "14mm silicon tailcap covers"

I'm not sure about the rubber inserts for the side though...
Click to expand...

I agree with Pontiacg5 here. I would never use a socket in a permanent build.

A permanent build should have everything soldered. Once I have everything put together and working, it never comes apart!! There is no reason to take it apart, (you're just asking for trouble) unless something breaks. Once put together, just leave well enough alone. ;)

I forgot to mention that I bought that socket for a diode testing station I was building. It was to go with a LM317 based, variable current (25 Ohm rehostat pot) I built. I just never got around to finishing it. :D
 
Xtrm2Rick said:
o crap just noticed thats yellow to
Click to expand...
Yea. I have found a few sources for yellow. I just don't get why there are no sources for fluorescent green 2mm cord. The first person to find a source that you can get fluorescent green 2mm cord from gets a $5 paypal gift from me :). If it exists it must be called something different. My searches are not finding it (2mm fluorescent green cord, 2mm fluor green cord).

At first I saw that your link mentions fluorescent thong. My lasers are sexy enough... they don't need thongs ;).
 
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well if i cant get my girlfriend in a thong minus well put my laser in one :P

this is jsut me but i have yet to have any trouble using my 2 pin connectors.. i dont really see many issues in using the sockets either... they serve their purpose and for the builds ive done, i dont really have intentions on keeping one as a permanent build. the option to take apart and put em back together is a plus for me.
 
xStatiCa: all I have been able to find are 3mm Green Flourescent Rubber Cords. Tried every search term I could think of and still nothing smaller. Sorry :/
 
Is it too late to get in on the GB? I dont have time to read all 33 pages of this thread just to find out if its still open.
 
I pretty sure this gb is closed but I think Kenom had a few extra host's made so you should be able to get one. Send him a PM but it may take a little while cause he doesn't have a computer right now only his cell phone.
 
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