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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

NUBM07E 465nm 2.9W Diode Test (Hitting 470nm+)

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I'm gonna get these from DTR BUT he his shop is closed for 2 days. I wonder would these reach 480nm+ if push to 5% of it death current. like from one of the thread.

You do know the secret of electronics don't you?
Well...they fill them with smoke at the factory and if you overclock em' too hard the smoke gets out and they won't work anymore.

But seriously, if you got a freak diode and used a tec pad with a finned heat sink and a fan you might get one that high but temp might be part of the wavelength shift as well.
At any rate it would most likely shorten the lifespan significantly.
 
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I checked Lazeerer's first post and data sheet, also checked DTR site, but cant seem to find this info...
is this 9mm diode?

Thanks
 
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I checked Lazeerer's first post and data sheet, also checked DTR site, but cant seem to find this info...
is this 9mm diode?

Thanks

Yes it is a 9mm diode with a long can and an aspheric lens often mistakenly labeled as a ball lens that can be snapped off ( see lazeerers video ) or you can get them from DTR already decanned in a module.

I asked DTR and he told me the pin out is the same as the NUBM44.
Looking at the back of the diode if the dimple that also lines up with the middle edge notch, is to your right then positive is the top pin.
Just look at the NUBM44 thread, it's the same pin out.
 
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I'm currently running M462's at 1.8amps continuously in my show projectors which is their stock current with X-Drives. With Z-bolt sinks and a little bit of airflow they literally run for hours with no issues.

I still have a couple 445's I want to get rid of and the NUBM07E looks like a solid upgrade. I'm assuming 3.5amps gives me the same runtime with the NUBM07E's? In other words, we're not pushing them any harder at that current?
 
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I'm currently running M462's at 1.8amps continuously in my show projectors which is their stock current with X-Drives. With Z-bolt sinks and a little bit of airflow they literally run for hours with no issues.

I still have a couple 445's I want to get rid of and the NUBM07E looks like a solid upgrade. I'm assuming 3.5amps gives me the same runtime with the NUBM07E's? In other words, we're not pushing them any harder at that current?

I'm a little confused as to what you're asking. We're not pushing them any harder than what at that current? By the same runtime, do you mean duty cycle or the lifespan of the diode?
 
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Is the wavelength shift due to high current running through the dye or is it caused by the increase of temperature? If it is caused by the increase of temperature couldn't you run the diode at low current and high temperature for a high wavelength?
 
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People. It's an aspheric lens. You don't need to continue calling it a "ball lens." I know somebody else already pointed this out...
 
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Is the wavelength shift due to high current...

Yes. It's current - independent from temperature. I've verified this personally by pulsing the current between low and high and watching the output on a spectrometer. The Wavelength changes instantly in step with the current.

The wavelength changes very little with temperature. Not on blue/green/violet anyway. Red and IR diodes DO change rather drastically with temperature.
 
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I Was looking at this diode on DTR's site and one has a Picture with driver soldered direct to diode but states "7-12V Input Driver Attached Via Lead For Easy Heatsinking" then there is the one below pictured with leads attatched that also states "7-12V Input Driver Attached Via Lead For Easy Heatsinking" i just wonder if the top one actually is supposed to mean driver attatched to diode,
 
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People. It's an aspheric lens. You don't need to continue calling it a "ball lens." I know somebody else already pointed this out...

This is what it was called on the china sellers page. It makes it easy to reference what lens we are talking about. I know its not a ball lens hence the reason for putting quotes around it.

Who decides what designation the lens gets?

How about "Gball" or the "G formerly know as ball":eg: Or is it an "S":undecided:
 
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I Was looking at this diode on DTR's site and one has a Picture with driver soldered direct to diode but states "7-12V Input Driver Attached Via Lead For Easy Heatsinking" then there is the one below pictured with leads attatched that also states "7-12V Input Driver Attached Via Lead For Easy Heatsinking" i just wonder if the top one actually is supposed to mean driver attatched to diode,

He uses the copper modules that have the rear section that touches the back of the diode for his 9mm diodes that come in a module. So none of those will have the driver inside the module. It would significantly reduce heat dissipation, especially with a 4 to 5 watt diode.
 

Pman

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I'm confused why he doesn't use the full copper module with the seperate driver. I don't see the full copper modules (empty) being sold at all. Would like to see them become available.
 
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I'm confused why he doesn't use the full copper module with the seperate driver. I don't see the full copper modules (empty) being sold at all. Would like to see them become available.

He does. What he told me was that if you order a 9mm diode with module, it comes with a full copper module. And he does sell the full copper modules separately by request for a few bucks extra.

Taken from some messages between him and myself:
"Yep all 9mm diodes sold in modules come with a full copper back half."

"The NUBM44 and NDB7A75 would not work without them and burn up at full power."
 
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He does. What he told me was that if you order a 9mm diode with module, it comes with a full copper module. And he does sell the full copper modules separately by request for a few bucks extra.

Taken from some messages between him and myself:
"Yep all 9mm diodes sold in modules come with a full copper back half."

"The NUBM44 and NDB7A75 would not work without them and burn up at full power."

He DTR said in an earlier post that he has these with the driver attached to the diode so I expect at 3.5 amps they will be ok for short duty cycles.

Anyway I ordered a diode as soon as he had them up before the mounted option was available so I ordered a raw diode, it just hit my mailbox this afternoon.

The can will come off but my old vise jaws have a bit more slack than I remembered and it put up a bit of a tussle but I won.

I gave it a 1/4 amp on the lab supply to see it light and it survived the install so it's game on. :)

The little lens is slightly convex at the output and slightly concave on the input. Its about 3/16 of an inch thick and only 1/4 inch wide.

The main thing is that it appears to be symmetrical so I don't think it could possibly do any beam shaping.
 

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These diodes are the sh!t! I had a chance to do a quick test. With the stock "Gball" lens and a set of 6X cylinders I am getting ~4X5mm after the cylinders and about .65mRad in the slow axis. The focus of the "Gball" lens is really pretty good and can be cleaned up with the cylinder expander focus. I couldn't find a 9V battery around for my higher power meter so I used my 2W ophir. At 1A I'm seeing 900mW, and 1.72A hit the 2W max of the meter. So far looks pretty good compared what others are seeing power wise. I will get some spectro readings when I get a chance. At this point I see no reason not to use the factory lens if you plan on using correction optics.
 




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