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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM07E 465nm 2.9W Diode Test (Hitting 470nm+)

The window on the front of the emitter just like the can windows don't like to be contaminated.

That's 1 factor, another may be humidity.

Looking at the emitter I don't know that oxygen could get at the gain medium, I think it has a tiny window, but contamination is an issue.

The emitter is on the right, I think it has a window, but it likes to be clean or it will pop/crack.

Capture_04252016_141915_zpsiytfqlai.png


Capture_04252016_141658_zpsbglol4tz.png



whauu amazing pictures ;)
 





I'm trying to see if there is a window or just the front of the substrate.

I know they introduce impurities into the edges when growing to define the edges, but I wonder if the front is AR coated or windowed, it is flat.

This is a different diode, the top one is my dead NUBM06


Capture_06052016_170839%202_zpsdzfwac4q.png
 
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I'm trying to see if there is a window or just the front of the substrate.

I know they introduce impurities into the edges when growing to define the edges, but I wonder if the front is AR coated or windowed, it is flat.

interesting looks like a small window more @!!
 
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Same diode, here it looks like a window, you can see spaces behind it.

I think if we put in the lens we want and don't take it in and out they last, I think humidity hurts them, especially when hot, I have killed windows on cans by taking out a lens while the diode was hot from a run and humidity shattered it, rainy days are bad, leave your lens in until its cooled down and keep it very clean, limit the time it's exposed to dusty air, our air is full of tiny dust.

Capture_06052016_170636_zpsss4bdbz0.png

man this is a small window looks amazing do all the can diodes have a window ! :beer:
 
Can this diode be used with the gball in, and another lense like the 3 element and maybe a 3x BE? I dont mind if it has less power. I want a nice beam. I saw the discussion about the c lenses but i dont know how to make that set up work for a host. I have this diode in a 22mm module decanned with a 3 element lense and have spacers in place to keep the lense in the prefered position.
 
Can this diode be used with the gball in, and another lense like the 3 element and maybe a 3x BE? I dont mind if it has less power. I want a nice beam. I saw the discussion about the c lenses but i dont know how to make that set up work for a host. I have this diode in a 22mm module decanned with a 3 element lense and have spacers in place to keep the lense in the prefered position.

Depends, I have these diodes but decanned, but with a little info this is simple to figure out. Is the G-ball lens set at its focal point for infinite focus?

If the g-ball is set at its focal point, then no, you can't put another lens in front of it. Simply because you need focal length to work with when doubling lenses up. In other words if the G-ball was very close to its focal length, adding another lens would mean that additional lens would have to butt right up against the first lens, and in most cases this is going to yield a finite-finite conjugate focus back down to a point due to over-focusing. What you are seeking in a laser is a finite-infinite conjugate focus so that the projected beam is focused to infinity.
 
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The NUBM07 with it's Gball on makes a HUGE 25 x 50mm rectangle at 15 feet, with the Gball off and using a 3 element that shrinks to about a 1 x 17mm line at 15 feet. With a G2 I think it was about a 1 x 30mm line at 15 feet.

52930d1472209637-nubm07e-465nm-2-9w-diode-test-hitting-470nm-sany0253.jpg
 

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OK, I found this old thread about NUBM07.

I just want to add a picture already posted in the "NUBM05 specs" thread which might also be interesting for someone eventually looking at this one.

These are spots of 2 NUBM07E diodes at 5m with 4.5A current. One diode has G-ball, other G-2 lens.

As one can see here, I was lucky to get from DTR a LD with G-ball producing a pretty thin line, even if still not as tight as G-2 makes.
But it looks that there are many types of G-balls which produce different spot shapes. So by chance one can get a rectangular spot 25x50mm like RC shows above (me, I got this from NUBM05) or even bigger (what I have with NUBM06).
And I do not know if 8 G-balls in a N. block are all same or not. Can anyone give me an answer, please?

PS: Now I have to find the thread about NUBM08 because have just shot a similar picture about these ones.
 

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My NUBM08 with it's GBall made a huge spot at 15 feet, about 1 x 3 inches.

You can pop the can off and use a 3 element or G2, it's a lot like a NUBM44 as far as the emitters raw output, but I like keeping the can on to avoid contamination.

It's so divergent I think a less powerful 3 element type lens could be used right in front of it. I wonder how many different lenses a typical 08 could come with?
Everything in a block should be lensed the same, but different OEM's may order with lens A,B,C .....

54075d1481232463-nubm07e-465nm-2-9w-diode-test-hitting-470nm-nubm08at15feet.jpg
 

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Hi Red,

You have posted this picture so many times in different threads that I was sure that when I get a 08 with Gball from DTR I will have exactly trhis rectangle shape and will not need cylindricals but only Sanwu expander to make burning at distance.
But once I received it, ooops, this was a surprise!:eg:

I think this thread is about 07, so I posted the picture with 08 spots in the 08 thread (not in Yours in Group Buys section, but in DTR`s one in Other Colours section). I also mention some interesting new findings in that post...

PS: I do not know why the thread about 07 is in 445nm section and about 08 is in Other Colours section - 465nm seems to be even further from 445 than 450 :undecided:
 
My NUBM08 with it's GBall made a huge spot at 15 feet, about 1 x 3 inches.

You can pop the can off and use a 3 element or G2, it's a lot like a NUBM44 as far as the emitters raw output, but I like keeping the can on to avoid contamination.

It's so divergent I think a less powerful 3 element type lens could be used right in front of it. I wonder how many different lenses a typical 08 could come with?
Everything in a block should be lensed the same, but different OEM's may order with lens A,B,C .....

54075d1481232463-nubm07e-465nm-2-9w-diode-test-hitting-470nm-nubm08at15feet.jpg

Yes, because stock lens could change (and we don't know its real specs) I prefer to remove them and go with a known EF collimator, to get always the same beam properties. I build modules for projectors not pointers however. If stock lens are different I have to change distance from cyls etc thus affecting the optical layout design and module size. I can focus better BTW
 
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Have you tried to remove the stock lens when LD is in 12 mm Cu module (without pressing it out first)? I remember DTR has written that Gball in 08 was very easy to pop out...
Can it be done or would you think it be too dangerous for the dye?
 
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I find the GBall is very easy to remove once the diode is mounted in a 12mm copper module with the copper back half that seats against the back of the 9mm diodes, I simply use a small stick to pry against one side of the GBall can and let the can fall straight down and out, I have not ever damaged one that way but you take your own risk, also exposing the die to contamination I speculate is not good.
 
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Does anyone know beyond speculation whether these GBall diodes are filled with an inert gas behind the lens? Does the lens holder appear to be tight enough to keep the gas in, if so? Edit: I guess that is a stupid follow-on question, let me ask another way, whether it is known an inert gas is in them or not, does the lens appear well sealed enough to hold a gas in?

I'm trying to decide on whether I should buy this diode, or the M162, which of the baby blue diodes above 460nm has superior divergence?
 
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I have run all my NUBM07 diodes at 3.5 amps, beautiful color but every one of them wore down in just a few months after I removed the GBall/cans.
( I use my lasers most days )

Side by side with a NUBM44 I know how they both burned their lines with a 3 element out my window, as time went by the 44 stayed strong and every 07 got weaker, I speculate it may be oxygen degrading the emitters coating.

------EDIT------
As for 2nd part of your question, the M-462 will have better divergence than the 07, with a 3 element it's basically half the divergence if I'm not mistaken.

------EDIT------ We knew it was possibly an issue taking the can off and DTR was concerned about it and told us up front, just like overdriving we are experimenting and pushing the limits, it's just hard when the NUBM44 is so robust and lasts and lasts as I go through several 07's trying to keep ahold of that bright blue, I think I would rather go with that new 465nm can/window diode, or keep the Gball on the 07......actually the M-462 would make a nice compact bright blue and with a pretty nice beam using only a 3 element, the price of the M-462 looks good as well.
 
I have a knife edge I bought from Diachi which uses A140 diodes, I was thinking I might swap them out for the M462, if the driver will handle the current. Thanks for the update, for the diodes which degrade over time from having the GBall removed, I don't think it would be too difficult to put a couple of small threaded little holes in the side of a diode holder and pump some inert gas into the holder, once a lens is inserted with Teflon tape. Of course, then you would not want to focus and refocus all of the time because the Teflon tape would degrade and cause the gas to leak out.
 





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