Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

New 3.8mm red Diodes on the Block.






cheech226 said:
how about this driver? looks like a flex, kinda.
405nm 445nm RED IR Linear Laser Diode Driver 500mA PCB | eBay
Click to expand...

That is the groove. It is a good driver. It is from the same guy that makes the flexdrives
http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Groove_2.php

But realize it is a linear driver and you may want to use two Li-Ions to keep it in regulation all the way through the battery cycle. You need 1.25V over the forward voltage of the diode to keep it in regulation. You will also probably have to heatsink it as that would be dropping a lot of voltage. Also these drivers usually top out around 550-650mA.:beer:

http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Groove2 manual.pdf


I have not been following real well. What is the forward voltage @ 700mA?
 
Last edited:
yathern2 said:
Would a ben boost set at around 760mA do the trick? I'm kinda still learning the whole battery/driver/diode relationship, with a ben boost, what type of batteries could I throw in?
Click to expand...

Driver vs diode is a tricky thing to learn. Blord is correct, you don't want to boost these. A linear would work fine. Check cajun lasers and ask Clif if he has anything that would work.

I would suggest Moh but he has closed up shop. :(
 
Linear, or buck drivers would work for this, unless you can find a boost driver that works on a single primary cell battery. (1.5 volts)

A buck driver would be more efficient, however, and won't require as near as much heatsinking as a linear.

Not to mention it also draws less current from the battery too!
 
I am going to be testing future BlitzBucks, but they certainly should be capable of driving these... nothing in the ICs datasheet says otherwise, just practical testing seems contrary to that? :thinking:

Anyway, there should be a bunch of Flex-sized bucks out on the market come mid-May, with two settings and a pot for adjustment. And continuous ground ;)
 
I'm hoping to build a 1 cell boost driver for these diodes in a small host.

I did an order through work today and have some of these on the way, hopefully I can parallel them.

I also have one of these on the way. I can program it up on the board first with flying leads from an off-board Picaxe or Arduino, biggest drama is I've never soldered BGA before, let alone a tiny weeny one :undecided:

Thinking I may be able to heat the board with a hot air iron and drop it on. Ill do some boards up in eagle when the IC's arrive.
 
i don't remember angelos saying what the Vf was for this diode.
i finally got it thru my head i need a flex to run it on one cell well because the Vf required by the diode is so low. can't boost to it. and there's that 1.2 V i need for a linear, buck driver over the Vf of the diode which limits battery selection - need 2.
 
I'm guessing the Vf would be about 2.4V or something like that.
And you are correct, if its a linear driver you'll realistically need about 4V with the 1.2V drop.
 
Can't you guys just use AMC7135 based drivers? They stack up to 700mA, have a very low dropoff voltage (like 0.2V if I remember correctly), so you would be able to use one cell, and they are very cheap, maybe $3 for a board on dealextreme/ebay.
 
Last edited:
Grix said:
Can't you guys just use AMC7135 based drivers? They stack up to 700mA, have a very low dropoff voltage (like 0.2V if I remember correctly), so you would be able to use one cell, and they are very cheap, maybe $3 for a board on dealextreme/ebay.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can use the AMC7135 drivers but the diode must be isolated from the driver/battery.
 
Crap. I realized one more potential "issue" with these. How the hell are you guys pressing them into a module? I have two presses but they're for 5.6mm diodes. I suppose the back of the aixiz module trick would work but I'm leery to do so having maimed more than one diode in the past when it's slipped.
 
that wont do the job, the holes is just a little bit too big, drill yourself a 2.5mm hole in piece of metal and use that, i found some metal air line fittings that are used to block off air on a redundant line, they work well!
 
Thanks for the info. I don't have any metric drill bits here but 2.5mm is .1 inch so a 3/32 or 7/64 bit would do the trick. I think I should have one of those in my bit kit if not there's a lowe's across the street from work where I can get one for under 2 bucks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top