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FrozenGate by Avery

2.1W "Evil Shadow" 650nm C-Mount Diode build Handheld

What are these diodes taken out of lol? Very nice build and now i finally see how these diodes actually work. i thought the hole was where the diode itself was... +rep!
 





Hmmmmm ???? Regarding the positive contact to the C-mount heat sink.....The center mounting bolt should conduct the + current from mount to LD ID seat....right ????
SOoooo....although the " strap " concept is a great work-around....do we not allready have the mounting bolt acting as a + conduit since the entire case is positive ???

If the above is sound logic...then the use of Artic Silver would be no problem....although....the correct foil thickness does offer the maximum in heat transfer....

I have never used the I-foil....but I am sure we will get great transfer with AS !!
Anyone know the theoritical K of the foil vs AS ???...For...If one wants every last Photon out the front !!! and maximum MTTF....then...maybe foil is the way to go ??

As always...
CDBEAM =======>

AND....Lazerrer.....Please make sure I am on da list for your Hyper Drive !!!!!!! I am waiting....like a Buzzard !!!

And...Another thing !!! The value on these C-mount units is completely outstanding....Do the math !!! Comes out to 8 cents per mW...EIGHT CENTS !!
Good grief....THAT IS CHEAP....for a correctable beam propagation at the 650nm line !!! It's kinda like Cosco....ya just gotta buy in volume !! hahaha....but, although the initial cost is high.....the "bang fer yer buck" is outta the ball park !!!! That is just the way it is !!!
 
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Hi, how did you do for the lens ? My problem is that I don't know how to put the lens for the c-mount diode however the build is great ! :gj:
 
I'm working on my first build now, but one day I want to own one of these too, first my red, then a 2W blue, and somewhere in the future will be one of these
 
Thought I would ask this here since I am looking to build a similar hand held. I have been looking for a suitable driver for this diode that will work safely and push the currents close to the max. I am wanting to drive mine at around 4.6a and haven't found much in the way of suitable drivers until I cam across this:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm1084.pdf

This is the LM1084 adjustable linear Current source IC. Any thoughts in if this would offer me any start up spike protection? It appears this could be safely driven with 7.4v to maintain above the dropout at all times. I've never worried too much about my drivers in the past and have generally used linear drivers due to their simplicity and reliability. That being said, I don't get too worried about it until it's a potentially $350 one pop firecracker.
Thanks,
Jmillerdoc
 
Necropost alert.

The LM1084 will work and it is great for bench testing, but you need a heck of a resistor. In a handheld it begins to become impractical because of the 6W of heat it will be generating on top of the heat the LM1084 produces, plus the diode. You would most likely be looking at a lantern style similar to what CDBEAM777 is doing. There will be thick aluminum and/or active cooling going on in there. Right now unfortunately this is the easiest solution until one of us comes out with a buck driver. They are in the works, one by myself and someone else, but there are other things in my life right now which take priority. The second easiest would be to use an LM358 and a large transistor. That will allow you to use a smaller resistor, but it is still linear and the transistor would dissipate a fair bit of waste heat. There might be a way to modify one of the cheap linear drivers, but I have not looked into it yet and like I say, there are other things going on right now.
 
Hi to all.
I have bought the Jayrob awesome "C-Mount Red Mag Stubby Build" and the c-mount 4W red diode from DTR.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/c-mount-red-mag-stubby-build-84462.html

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/4w-650nm-c-mount-diodes-w-fac

The build is fantastic, rock solid and eye-catching.
The internal heatsink was made in copper, smooth and precise.
Jayrob has kindly sent me a 6000 mAh non-protected cell, since the protected one has the circuitry that cause some issues due to the high drain of current requested by the diode.
I used the laser for less than 2 minutes, then I had shut off it. After one minute, I have turned on again the laser, and the diode LEDed !!! :(
The driver was really untouchable, very very hot.
I do not know what's happened, but now I'm very scary to waste another 350 dollars diode !!
It was my intention to contact lazeerer to ask him something about his new driver, but I see that his last reply was done, in a thread of mine, in date 12-13-2013, and do not reply to my PM.
Any softhearted guy can help me about my c-mount tragedy and how to contact Lazeerer?
Thanks a lot!

Richard.
 
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what was the driver set at?
I used one of my 2.5A driver I use on my 9mm 445nm worked good ran cool.
I am having some real good driver made to go up to 6A hope to have them soon . will post video as soon as I test it out.
PS sorry about the diode !

Minamoto Kobayashi said:
Hi to all.
I have bought the Jayrob awesome "C-Mount Red Mag Stubby Build" and the c-mount 4W red diode from DTR.
The build is fantastic, rock solid and eye-catching.
The internal heatsink was made in copper, smooth and precise.
Jayrob has kindly sent me a 6000 mAh non-protected cell, since the protected one has the circuitry that cause some issues due to the high drain of current requested by the diode.
I used the laser for less than 2 minutes, then I had shut off it. After one minute, I have turn on again the laser, and the diode LEDed !!! :(
The driver was really untouchable, very very hot.
I do not know what's happened, but now I'm very scary to waste another 350 dollars diode !!
It was my intention to contact lazeerer to ask him something about his new driver, but I see that his last reply was done, in a thread of mine, in date 12-13-2013, and do not reply to my PM.
Any softhearted guy can help me about my c-mount tragedy and how to contact Lazeerer?
Thanks a lot!

Richard.
Click to expand...
 
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As luck or providence would have it I had my lens and check in the mail on Friday to go out to Jayrob. My wife, not realizing I had placed an outgoing package in the mail removed it and sat it on the kitchen counter. I found this yesterday when I got home from work. I am now very edgy to build this thing after all the horror stories I've heard. I'm not knocking Jayrob at all, he did a wonderful job and has a successful build. I'm just worried about duplicating it so successfully now. I am both thankful and upset at the same time to see this post. In the end I think I will go ahead and send the $$$ and lens and get it built but may just wait a while for Lazeerer's driver to come out.

Minamoto- I have been in communication with Lazeerer about this new driver he's got I. The works. From what I can tell he's really close to having a working prototype and may have something available commercially soon. Shoot him a PM, he will respond. It may take him a day or two but he is faithful to eventually respond to his PM's. I think he is a pretty busy guy but give him a shout.

Do you recall what current he set your driver to? Or did you do all the set up? I recall Jay mentioning he had a two setting driver and always turned it off to where when he turned it back on it started up on the lower of the the two currents. Did you follow this example?
 
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Hi Jmillerdoc.
I have wrote a PM to Lazeerer five days ago, but I haven't received any response yet ;(

The first time I have turned on the laser, it started at max power.
The switch between low mode and high mode and viceversa in this drive is possible only pressing ON-OFF rapidly the power button. I have tried much times this operation but nothing happen. The strange thing, the diode is emitting light not only from the front, but also a little bit from the right (???). Surely the diode is heavily damaged.
The "soft start" of this driver, in my modest opinion, is a fake soft start. It was made to protect the diode against too much amps all together during a cold start, but I cannot know if the diode start at low or at high mode, the first time that I power on it.
You may tell me "but the driver has a memory!" Yes, but I do not know which was the last state of the driver. I think that a good protection must be a driver that starts always in a low mode!
But also starting in the low mode is not a valid protection, because switching the diode from low to high mode needs to pass thru an OFF state (rapidly clicking OFF-ON). In that way, the diode receive anyhow the same amount of amps all together. And no matter if the diode is a bit warmer, the risk is always the same! I think that a good soft start must be a soft ramp, from a low amp to a high amp, without any OFF state.
 
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Minamoto- I do not disagree with you about the soft start, I was just curious if you did attempt to do what Jay did or not. Strange about your diode, I've never heard of that behavior before. You still have not answered the question of how many amps were you running on high? I know the driver will do up to 4a (which is what I was considering) but Jay had his set for 3a. I am just trying to find anything different about your build compared to Jay's build. I am almost wondering if the Flexmod is a better choice of drivers for this build. I believe it will run up to 4a as well.
 
Hi!
I have tried nothing special or different from the Jayrob hints. Only ON, then OFF, and then ON-OFF-ON quickly, to change the mode.
But there is a strange thing: now the diode is LEDed, but when I try ON-OFF-ON quickly, the output rests at the same power.
If a diode broken receive, for example, 1A, it should emit less power than a broken diode that receive 3A, isn't it?
But this diode rest always at the same power ...

The output of the diode was about 2W, so I think that Jayrob has set the driver to 3A, so underpushed!
 
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