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FrozenGate by Avery

2.1W "Evil Shadow" 650nm C-Mount Diode build Handheld

Brilliant work with the C-mount diode!!
I really like the how it came out. Good pics of the construction process.
I am currently starting a laser build myself but have yet to try anything quite that elaborate.

Great colour too btw!

Actually I will PM you regarding that beautiful test load.

+1
 





Lazereer is kindly working with my build.
Just for testing the laser, I have originally not soldered the diode pin to the negative contact, and this may be the cause of the diode blow. Also if the contact was present due to the pin pressure against the contact, it seems that the high current flow has created an issue thru the bad contact, and the diode has received something wrong in a fraction of a second :cryyy:.
So now Angelos has bought for me another expensive diode (sic), and he is near to complete his ramp up new diode.
As soos as I receive the build fully working, I post for sure a complete review!
 
Minamoto Kobayashi said:
Lazereer is kindly working with my build.
Just for testing the laser, I have originally not soldered the diode pin to the negative contact, and this may be the cause of the diode blow. Also if the contact was present due to the pin pressure against the contact, it seems that the high current flow has created an issue thru the bad contact, and the diode has received something wrong in a fraction of a second :cryyy:.
So now Angelos has bought for me another expensive diode (sic), and he is near to complete his ramp up new diode.
As soos as I receive the build fully working, I post for sure a complete review!
Click to expand...

hmm that sudden death you've indicated sounds like an odd problem indeed.
I wonder what could have caused this to occur.
At any rate sounds like you've got another diode coming and a fix is on the way! :D
 
Yes, Lazereer has find another diode for me, but phew, it's a really expensive diode, dude! About the death of the last diode, I suppose that for a little amount of time the diode leg fails to press against the contact. In a fraction of a second the missing load might have caused a surge of extra amps in output from the driver, so, when the contact was reactivated, an high current might have come to the diode, destroying it. Bad experience, really !
 
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Minamoto Kobayashi said:
Lazereer is kindly working with my build.
Just for testing the laser, I have originally not soldered the diode pin to the negative contact, and this may be the cause of the diode blow.
Click to expand...

Yep intermittent contact will charge the output cap on the driver and spike the diode every time. That sucks. Always have every connection between the diode and driver soldered and solid. Sorry for your loss. That is a really expensive lesson.:(
 
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Minamoto Kobayashi said:
Yes, Lazereer has find another diode for me, but phew, it's a really expensive diode, dude! About the death of the last diode, I suppose that for a little amount of time the diode leg fails to press against the contact. In a fraction of a second the missing load might have caused a surge of extra amps in output from the driver, so, when the contact was reactivated, an high current might have come to the diode, destroying it. Bad experience, really !
Click to expand...

yup, a sudden cap discharge from the driver will LED an LD every time.
very expensive loss as DTR has explained. I wonder how the connect became so loose. :thinking:

:can:
 
Wow this is one fine build and it's time more people seen it so here is a bump up to the top :)

I just started doing "C" mounts and this is a jewel of a review with all the pictures it should inspire more members towards "C" mounts :D
 
Flaminpyro said:
Wow this is one fine build and it's time more people seen it so here is a bump up to the top :)

I just started doing "C" mounts and this is a jewel of a review with all the pictures it should inspire more members towards "C" mounts :D
Click to expand...

Yeah, agreed, especially with the new 4W
638nm C-mount diodes that have FAC. :yh:
 
Angelos had ended his fabulous ramp-up driver and he is near to send me the build finally repaired and completed.
Jayrob has made for me a new special copper heatsink for the case positive build and a new host.
The project is really amazing: 3W of pure red goddess :drool:
When I will have the stuff in my hand I will post a complete review.
In honour of the endless patience of Angelos an Jayrob surely I will call the project: "Jayzereer Red Build" :p
 
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I managed to get one of these diodes awhile back and am thinking of building something out of it but I would need one of lazeerers drivers. Not sure if he has made them or not.
 
He now has a new 'slow start' X-Drive that can do up to 7 Amps adjustable... :)
 
The Lightning Stalker said:
Oh oh, isn't that the one that is both
continuous positive and continuous ground at
the same time? ;)
Click to expand...

I believe it is just like his normal X-Drive except that it has ramp up slow start and can adjust easily to 5 Amps, and even up to 7 Amps per Angelos...

For this C-Mount red which is a case positive diode, you still need to isolate the diode.

Here's a picture of how I set it up in a case negative build/isolated diode mount: (thermally together in the two piece heatsink design, but electrically isolated)

Per Angelos' suggestion, I used two 1n5404 Silicon diodes as well... (center of heatsink is diode positive, and electrically isolated from the outer part of the heatsink, but thermally glued with Arctic alumina - see artic alumina data sheet here for specs - total electrical isolation)

CMagCustom2.jpg
 
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Thanks you two for the info. Jayrob why did you use those 1n5404s?

jayrob said:
I believe it is just like his normal X-Drive except that it has ramp up slow start and can adjust easily to 5 Amps, and even up to 7 Amps per Angelos...

For this C-Mount red which is a case positive diode, you still need to isolate the diode.

Here's a picture of how I set it up in a case negative build/isolated diode mount: (thermally together in the two piece heatsink design, but electrically isolated)

Per Angelos' suggestion, I used two 1n5404 Silicon diodes as well... (center of heatsink is diode positive, and electrically isolated from the outer part of the heatsink, but thermally glued with Arctic alumina - see artic alumina data sheet here for specs - total electrical isolation)

CMagCustom2.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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