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FrozenGate by Avery

Strange Things About Blu-Ray (405nm)

randomlugia said:
How exactly did it turn on while you were sleeping...? ;D
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It sounds like it was on before he fell asleep.

I've used mine as a "night light" - not keeping it on, but next to my bed to use if I get up at night. Just aiming to the ceiling makes the whole room glow nicely.

It might be a good idea not to use one of the newer high-powered (like 6X) in bed if you might fall asleep with it on... or at least be sure the focus is not close, since it would be possible to start a fire.
:-?
DanQ
 





danq said:
[quote author=randomlugia link=1219161671/60#61 date=1230949590]How exactly did it turn on while you were sleeping...? ;D
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It might be a good idea not to use one of the newer high-powered (like 6X) in bed if you might fall asleep with it on... or at least be sure the focus is not close, since  it would be possible to start a fire.
  :-?
DanQ[/quote]

That is a very good point. ;D A focus 6x or PHR could definately start a fire focused. :o
 
It has probably been mentioned before,  but I'd like to add another note on the 803-T.
After getting my module all fired up nicely from my bench supply, I accidentally shorted the supply terminals momentarily - this fried the diode probably because of some transient phenomena. I was only running it at 75 mA at the time.

This is reason why a reversed diode, a 0.1 uF and a 10-100uF with a bleeder resistor would be needed across the diode. Furthermore, a slow start power supply may also extend the life.

Wish I had a bunch of them to do stress test, so we can put an and to these premature casualties!  ;D
 
rkrishnan said:
This is reason why a reversed diode, a 0.1 uF and a 10-100uF with a bleeder resistor would be needed across the diode. Furthermore, a slow start power supply may also extend the life.
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Right - I've been advocating a bleeder resistor across that 'protection cap' for quite a while, but it doesn't seem to catch on... everyone mentions the need for a cap but not the R. It's such a simple addition, and if you use surface-mount components they take up very little space - could even be on the LD pins.

DanQ
 
I put a dilda knob and lens on my jayrob 110mW works great and looks ahh hell it looks bad but the beams is far more easier to focus and the divergance is better at further distance :P.
 
jander6442 said:
I put a dilda knob and lens on my jayrob 110mW works great and looks ahh hell it looks bad  but the beams is far more easier to focus and the divergance is better at further distance :P.
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Don't do that any more. Glass lenses and lenses made for red lasers reflect more light back into the diode, and it can really shorten the life of your laser.
 
I've been hearing a lot lately regarding links between macular degeneration and blue/violet light exposure. Would it be safe to say that diffuse reflection of 405nm laser light is more dangerous than that of other laser wavelengths?
 
Fantastic thread Dave. I just read the updated version and the most recent pages here.

Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. :)
 
daguin said:
People with glasses that are coated to block UV will be affected as well.
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First off, it's a great piece, professor, thanks for pointing it out to me  8-)

Now as I reported to you elsewhere, from a distance I see what I would describe as a webbing. However when I approach the spot (projected on a wall), it starts to look pretty much like a red (aside from the fact that it is more of an ellipse).

So then I put on a pair of Oakley M-Frames with a clear lens and all I saw was a small and simplistic "spot"...  :o
So there you have it, BRs make for a great anti-uv lens test  ;)


EDIT: They say it's the thought that counts... ;)
"You cannot change Reputation of this user at this time."
 
hello
i just finished my first properly working mxdl bluray
i am ordering a dummy load but dont have one atm
my bluray really hurts smokes black tape pretty vigously but will jot light a red match-even a sharpied red match.
im sure its over 40mw though- ill try white

so is this normal and around what mw would it be , i know that there is no way to tell except for a lpm but surely one could estimate.

ps. bluray is awesome
thank you  :)

i just cut the back out of the aixiz now it just lights reds-sharpied
 
Since you are collecting info on Blu-Ray, I thought I would contribute a couple items.

daguin said:
One of the cool things to do with the 405nm is to shine it on rocks, plants, and insects to see the different fluorescent colors out there.  This activity is when most people "burn up" their blu-rays.  It is very easy to lose track of time when one is "searching out" glowing things ;)
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A UV flashlight works well for finding the glowing things to shine your violet laser on.  I recently took mine into a craft store to look for the brightest fluorescent colored paper.  You can find these flashlights on ebay, of course.

Also along these lines, toward the end of Styropyro's video on YouTube (about building a violet laser)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVugSGldXZ8
is a demo of writing on glow in the dark surfaces.   Styropyro mentions in the comments that he didn't know where to buy the large phosphorescent sheet that he used (since he bought it years ago).  I just bought one that looks a lot like the one in the video.  They are $11.95  for a 12" x 12" sheet at
http://www.teachersource.com/Chemistry/GlowintheDark/PhosphorescentVinylSheet.aspx
They also carry other items like phosphorescent paint.
 

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A cheap resource, if you don't mind a texture, is to get some large GITD star sheets. Just don't pull the stars out.
 
daguin said:
**UPDATED 2/21/09**

The third is from the PHR-803T sled.  This one was used in the older (first generation) XBOX 360 HD DVD add on players.  [highlight]It is capable of up to about 190mW[/highlight].  However, in order for it to last any appreciable amount of time, the output should be limited to about 120mW.  This one is getting the most “play” right now because of its higher output while still being comparatively inexpensive ($10).



Peace,
dave
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I've got something strange to report about the PHR I have running on a DDL with a 10Ohm resistor...I have been using this laser for about 3 months now, usually every other day, 1 minute duty cylces, about 10 times a day. I put it to a laserbee lpm and it registered at 202mW! :o I checked my other builds that have lava drives and rkcstr drivers with the laserbee and they all fall into the common ranges I have seen on here, so I believe the lpm is accurate.
Did I miscalculate by using a 10Ohm resistor? I thought it would have been set for 125mA. How am I getting 202mW? This laser does burn VERY well, better than the Dorcy I have with a lavadrive set at 150mA. Can someone tell me this is impossible?
 
ColdStl said:
I've got something strange to report about the PHR I have running on a DDL with a 10Ohm resistor...I have been using this laser for about 3 months now, usually every other day, 1 minute duty cylces, about 10 times a day. I put it to a laserbee lpm and it registered at 202mW! :o I checked my other builds that have lava drives and rkcstr drivers with the laserbee and they all fall into the common ranges I have seen on here, so I believe the lpm is accurate.
Did I miscalculate by using a 10Ohm resistor? I thought it would have been set for 125mA. How am I getting 202mW? This laser does burn VERY well, better than the Dorcy I have with a lavadrive set at 150mA. Can someone tell me this is impossible?
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Put a dummy load on your driver and test the output current...

Jerry
 
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