I HIGHLY recomend NOT messing with the pot. If you mess with the pot, don't use something conductive. All the ones I've gotten and tried the pot adjustment were allready set to max output and the pot is VERY sensitive and easily adjusted too high. Got lucky with one that I thought had killed and was able to set back. Going to sound stupid but I actually set one to somewhere around 2mw (Ophir isn't accurate at that level) and threw it in a pen host so I can now have a 2mw 532nm pen demonstrate just how bright it is shining it across a very reflective sign that is about 50 feet out my door in full sunlight. Even 2mw of 532 is quite bright and bothers your eyes. It gives me a way to show just how dangerous even low powered lasers can be.
I've purchased an aweful lot of WAY overspec pens and the truth is, it's a scary thought imagining some dad letting their little kids play with what they think is basically harmless.
Have yet to be able to get the 10% code to work on their site but I'm never over $100. End up using the BLF code for 5%.
Did write a quick review on their site on the single aaa pen and requested they sell the black ones (last pic shows that they can come in black). Found that those pens peak higher with a single alkaline than a lithium. Don't seem to apreciate the higher voltage. My 2 units hit 81 and 84mw on start
Haven't graphed them out yet or IR tested. They are nasty little units though
Should take a look at what I posted in the Fasttech module voting thread. There's been some "interesting" developments..... also take a look at their site....
Filled in a requested feedback report to them telling them to be careful about potentially switching supliers for the modules we are requesting as the ones they were selling were what we are interested in but would like some higher output modules to also be offered.
Plan on posting a few pics of a couple of the modules I stuck in flashlights I had that I don't use. Have been wondering something for some time now. Is it better to take high resolution shots and then have imageshack convert to a lower resolution or should I just take the lower res. shots to begin with?
In the past, I've just taken pics with my Olympus SP-500UZ when I really should have been using my Canon S3 IS. The Olympus doesn't have any stability/anti-shake setting. However, I also have my Galaxy S3 which is higher resolution but I wouldn't think the optics would be better than the Canon. I'm generally the put it on auto and try to stay steady kind of pic taker. Never really got into figuring it all out which is kind of weird for a guy who reads thru almost every manual for everything he owns... Not trying to derail the flow here. Just looking for a quick uncomplicated answer as easy as possible
I realize this could get really complicated for answers. Which camera to use with auto setting and which resolution for it to come out the best for posting purposes (to convert to a lower resolution or not). Much thanks!
Well, here's some pics of what I used for hosts...
This one was from a river rock light. Had to bore it out slightly to get a nice module fit. The tailcap is a momentary press in and constant on when you turn it all the way in. Left the reflector in place. There's no plastic lens in front of it.
This is the one that frankly looks fantastic when on due to the holes in the front all the way around. My pics don't do it justice. It's a heavy host. Drilled a hole exactly over the button. You can see where the hole was for the button for when it was a flashlight. What looks like copper in the hole is copper. Make the module centered and tight with a very thin piece of copper sheet wrapped around the module.
Pic taken just on auto so not a timed exposure.
it would be infrared no?
