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FrozenGate by Avery

(Work in progress) First build: 635nm 500mW in C6 host

If i was gonna set up a high power 635 i would go for the iron4D driver. 445 diodes have a much higher working voltage than red diodes. Using the same driver as you did for the 445 you'd either have to run it with 1 18650 which would limit the driver output(or just not work) or deal with the heatsinking for and extra ~5V of input. iMHO spring for a new driver.
 





Yeah definitely spring for a new driver. Buy an Iron4D at 1050mA from cajunlasers, and a 17mm contact board.

Slide the driver onto the pins of the diode, solder a lead from the input pad to the contact board which goes in the pill.
 
i just purchased a JAD C6 kit so now i cant wait for that to arrive. since it was a 1.8A its going to be a M140 or 9mm build but still shall be good! may decide and buying a different driver so i can do a 638 build as originally planned :thinking:
 
Livinloud said:
i just purchased a JAD C6 kit so now i cant wait for that to arrive. since it was a 1.8A its going to be a M140 or 9mm build but still shall be good! may decide and buying a different driver so i can do a 638 build as originally planned :thinking:
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I'd go with the 638, but I'm only saying that so if I need help you'll know exactly what to say XD
 
wannaburnstuff said:
Yeah definitely spring for a new driver. Buy an Iron4D at 1050mA from cajunlasers, and a 17mm contact board.

Slide the driver onto the pins of the diode, solder a lead from the input pad to the contact board which goes in the pill.
Click to expand...

The max it can handle is 800mA though... Would I be able to lower the power?

edit: oops, double post... :undecided:
 
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Pretty sure people regularly run these at 1-1.4A, I know when I make my mitsu build I will be doing 1.4A. You may see a slightly shorter life for the diode, but would you need 5000 hours anyway?
 
wannaburnstuff said:
Pretty sure people regularly run these at 1-1.4A, I know when I make my mitsu build I will be doing 1.4A. You may see a slightly shorter life for the diode, but would you need 5000 hours anyway?
Click to expand...

My diode came already :D
(Smallest $80 ever...)

I'll try running it at 1.2A-1.4A if you're sure it can handle it without a problem. Now I'm at the part where I want to stop cause I'm scared I'll break something :crackup:

Anyway, I'll start looking for drivers and trying to figure out how to get the current (teehee) one out of the pill. Thanks for all the help everyone :D

EDIT: I have 4 18650's lying around. I'll be able to use one of those, right?
 
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If you aren't worried about breaking the current one I tell you what I did....I took a thin nail, stuck it through the hole in the pill, put the pill in a vice, and took a hammer, and hit the nail so that it would either push the driver out or crack it in two. Then it was easy.....but try a simple wedge first...just slip a knife under the edge and try to lift it out. Mine wouldn't so I resorted to....ahem, stronger methods.

Most of my old drivers don't last very long....I have done many an evil thing trying to get the damn things dislodged and whatnot.
 
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wannaburnstuff said:
If you aren't worried about breaking the current one I tell you what I did....I took a thin nail, stuck it through the hole in the pill, put the pill in a vice, and took a hammer, and hit the nail so that it would either push the driver out or crack it in two. Then it was easy.....but try a simple wedge first...just slip a knife under the edge and try to lift it out. Mine wouldn't so I resorted to....ahem, stronger methods.

Most of my old drivers don't last very long....I have done many an evil thing trying to get the damn things dislodged and whatnot.
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I found the pill and brass ring at SL. Will the current one be reusable or should I just get a new one? Also, can you find me a good driver that'll fit the pill and run at 1.4A? Thanks again :)
EDIT: Damn, how do I get it up to 1.1W like this guy did? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8kMlStHxec
 
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I'm not terribly familiar with this diode, but if the Vf is the same as the 650s, then I would use an inexpensive Mohgasm linear or the iron4D, soldered directly to the diode, then wired to a blank board in a drilled out pill, with the brass ring. I have, as yet, had any luck fitting a linear in a C6 any other way. With the small pill in the C6, you will need a seriously small "mini" or "micro" driver to fit easily. I haven't used it, but it sounds like the iron4D would fit very nicely.

good luck! I haven't tried this frequency yet.
 
scumbagatheist said:
I'm not terribly familiar with this diode, but if the Vf is the same as the 650s, then I would use an inexpensive Mohgasm linear or the iron4D, soldered directly to the diode, then wired to a blank board in a drilled out pill, with the brass ring. I have, as yet, had any luck fitting a linear in a C6 any other way. With the small pill in the C6, you will need a seriously small "mini" or "micro" driver to fit easily. I haven't used it, but it sounds like the iron4D would fit very nicely.

good luck! I haven't tried this frequency yet.
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Thanks for the tips. I've asked jayrob if he can make me one that will fit in the pill to include with the 650-G-1 lens I'm going to buy from him, but if he can't then I'll try fitting a linear driver into the aluminum looking thing at the bottom.
 
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Blord said:
You can use an AMC7135 driver for the 638nm diode. This driver only need on 18650 cell for the red diode.
See this thread for pictures of the driver,
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/modding-nanjg-101-now-ak-a1-5-mode-1400-ma-driver-76062.html
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Have any left? I'll buy one if you do :P

EDIT: Found a 4 pack at fasttech for $2.89 free shipping. I only need one, but I doubt you can get it shipped to me for cheaper than that :P
EDIT 2: Just ordered it with the shipping upgrade... The extras may come in handy since I'm planning on selling lasers in the future.
 
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The module is just barely too big to fit in, it keeps getting stuck in the heatsink... I feel like I need to hit it with a hammer but I don't want to damage the diode :P
 
did you screw in the HS screw before putting the module in(just to check)? If so you might want to send the back end of a module through with a little umph, just in case the thread pulled a bit of metal through with it. So as to clear any debris, also make sure there aren't any blemishes on the module itself.
 
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bdgreenb said:
did you screw in the HS screw before putting the module in(just to check)? If so you might want to send the back end of a module through with a little umph, just in case the thread pulled a bit of metal through with it. So as to clear any debris, also make sure there aren't any blemishes on the module itself.
Click to expand...

Just put my old module up next to my new one, the old one is actually just slightly smaller...
 
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