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FrozenGate by Avery

The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Thanks!

I'm going to have to go back and re-read a BUNCH of threads so I actually remember what I'm doing when the time comes. :D
 





Daguin has made me aware of a new issue. The grooves the snap rings fit into are too deep and since they are too deep the retaining ring fits down too far, and does not provide a good anchor for the clickies. I am working on a means of solving the problem The best solution I've come up thus far is to find bigger 11/16" rings, or put a washer above the clicky to hold it in place better.
 
Not to complain, the retaining ring on the original kryton grooves were a pain in the ass to install if you didnt have a pair of fine tipped needle nose pliers. The holes are about 2mm in diameter which i didnt have anything pliers that small. i had to get a pair of surgical clamps to fit the ring in there. if you can find ones with a little bigger holes im sure thatll for great benefit for those buyers in this GB
 
or just grind the tips of a normal plier a bit thinner, thats what i did, it worked great to :p
 
Kenom said:
Daguin has made me aware of a new issue. The grooves the snap rings fit into are too deep and since they are too deep the retaining ring fits down too far, and does not provide a good anchor for the clickies. I am working on a means of solving the problem The best solution I've come up thus far is to find bigger 11/16" rings, or put a washer above the clicky to hold it in place better.
Click to expand...

You might try putting the clicky in first then the plastic spacer, so the snap ring holds onto the spacer instead of the switch. When I still had the grooves here I tried both and they seem to work. The clicky seems to press easier that way too. And conductivity shouldn't be a problem since I used plastic instead of aluminum for the spacer.
 
Pontiacg5 said:
You might try putting the clicky in first then the plastic spacer, so the snap ring holds onto the spacer instead of the switch. When I still had the grooves here I tried both and they seem to work. The clicky seems to press easier that way too. And conductivity shouldn't be a problem since I used plastic instead of aluminum for the spacer.
Click to expand...

I recalled you saying that earlier so I tried it and I had issues lining up the rubber nub in the tailcap with the nub on the switch. Essentially the o-ring was designed to space the switch from the nub and align it so that the nub always hit when pressed. I'm not saying it can't or doesn't work, just that it's not the best way.
 
Pontiacg5 said:
You might try putting the clicky in first then the plastic spacer, so the snap ring holds onto the spacer instead of the switch. When I still had the grooves here I tried both and they seem to work. The clicky seems to press easier that way too. And conductivity shouldn't be a problem since I used plastic instead of aluminum for the spacer.
Click to expand...

Kenom said:
I recalled you saying that earlier so I tried it and I had issues lining up the rubber nub in the tailcap with the nub on the switch. Essentially the o-ring was designed to space the switch from the nub and align it so that the nub always hit when pressed. I'm not saying it can't or doesn't work, just that it's not the best way.
Click to expand...

I believe that would make the button protrude too much as well.

Right now, I'm thinking we will need a 7/8" snap ring with a smaller ID or we will need to place a small piece of wire into the snap ring groove to force the ring smaller.

Of course we could always simply anchor the ring and switch in place with hot glue or epoxy. My testing shows that this works with hot glue, but it is not the "cleanest" looking installation.

Peace,
dave
 
I'm thinking the solution to this will be to take a penny or dime or washer with a hole in the center ground down thinner and use it between the switch and the snap ring. it would have to be pretty thin or it will make the switch fit too tight to actually get the snap ring in place.
 
Let me know what sort of dimensions you need, I'll make some washers up for you. Hopefully I can part something off that narrow though...

I had to guess at the depth of that groove, I don't have any tools to measure inside grooves that narrow. I thought I had it figured out, but I guess not!
 
Pontiacg5 said:
Let me know what sort of dimensions you need, I'll make some washers up for you. Hopefully I can part something off that narrow though...

I had to guess at the depth of that groove, I don't have any tools to measure inside grooves that narrow. I thought I had it figured out, but I guess not!
Click to expand...

I don't think that this is the answer. The ring slides completely inside (sub-surface) on the side opposite the two "holes" for the pliers. There is nothi8ng left to hold a washer down on a significant portion of the radius. The switch (with washer) would probably still "tilt" up out of position when pushed.

Maybe we need to try some larger (dia.) snap rings?

Do snap rings get "thicker" (taller?) as the diameter increases?

Peace,
dave
 
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Maybe an outside snap ring would work?

310593_300.jpg


The tabs go to the outside instead of the inside, it might hold the clip far enough to the side to still hold the switch in. From what it sounds like though, that would only leave a small ledge actually holding the switch in. Probably not the best solution :undecided:

If a bigger (larger OD) snap ring would work I could put a bunch on the surface grinder at work to get them down to the right thickness. I really don't know if they get ticker as the diameter increases though.
 
daguin said:
I don't think that this is the answer. The ring slides completely inside (sub-surface) on the side opposite the two "holes" for the pliers. There is nothi8ng left to hold a washer down on a significant portion of the radius. The switch (with washer) would probably still "tilt" up out of position when pushed.

Maybe we need to try some larger (dia.) snap rings?

Do snap rings get "thicker" (taller?) as the diameter increases?

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that this will work. The switch does not match the diameter of the inside of the barrel completely. It's about 1-2mm smaller to allow for the contacts on the side of the switch to make connection on the ID of the barrel. From what I could see, the snap-ring when in position, still sticks out 1mm and if the "washer" were the exact same size as the ID of the tailcap, it would hold it in place. There really is only one way to know if this will work and I'm currently "grinding" down a dime to see if it will work or not.

Pontiac, your offer is very generous and if this works, I WILL take you up on the offer. I'll let you know soon.

Other than the "washer" the only other option would be to order special snaprings that have a larger width. As you can see in my illustration, the S max would need to be larger. If that's possible in a 11/16" snapring, I have no clue, but I will inquire if no other option works.
 

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Pontiacg5 said:
Maybe an outside snap ring would work?

310593_300.jpg


The tabs go to the outside instead of the inside, it might hold the clip far enough to the side to still hold the switch in. From what it sounds like though, that would only leave a small ledge actually holding the switch in. Probably not the best solution :undecided:

If a bigger (larger OD) snap ring would work I could put a bunch on the surface grinder at work to get them down to the right thickness. I really don't know if they get ticker as the diameter increases though.
Click to expand...

I think that this type of ring would simply force it off center.

I do not have an assortment of snap rings at my disposal. If you have access to different sizes, and it would help, I can send a tail piece to you so you could try some different sizes

Kenom said:
I'm pretty sure that this will work. The switch does not match the diameter of the inside of the barrel completely. It's about 1-2mm smaller to allow for the contacts on the side of the switch to make connection on the ID of the barrel. From what I could see, the snap-ring when in position, still sticks out 1mm and if the "washer" were the exact same size as the ID of the tailcap, it would hold it in place. There really is only one way to know if this will work and I'm currently "grinding" down a dime to see if it will work or not.

Pontiac, your offer is very generous and if this works, I WILL take you up on the offer. I'll let you know soon.

Other than the "washer" the only other option would be to order special snaprings that have a larger width. As you can see in my illustration, the S max would need to be larger. If that's possible in a 11/16" snapring, I have no clue, but I will inquire if no other option works.
Click to expand...

The rings move pretty freely in the groove. I would imagine that the groove is not 11/16. Does the "S max" increase with the diameter of the ring?

Peace,
dave
 
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I don't think machining whole new snap rings is an option, however I will head to my local hardware store with some snap ring pliers tomorrow to see if I can't find a solution.
 
Pontiacg5 said:
I don't think machining whole new snap rings is an option, however I will head to my local hardware store with some snap ring pliers tomorrow to see if I can't find a solution.
Click to expand...

LOL! No. We will find a work around for this. Custom snap rings would seem a bit much ;)

Peace,
dave
 
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