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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Sonar Laser Cases!

Murudai said:
Is the problem whether they fit length ways or width ways?

Dark_Horse, what batteries did you use to fit the heatsink?
Click to expand...
I used the same CR123 Ultra-fires that you posted above, mine fit very snug, for diameter, but should be a little extra for length even with the protection-circuit. As Dave pointed out, these are clearly designed to use CR123-primaries, they fit well.
DH
 





Re-tested again, and i was able to insert one a few cm, but I´am sure they will never come out again :D
That is, unless i want to remove te module each and everytime to change the batterys.

ArRaY
 
I have one of those Ultrafire 16340 and it fits VERY snugly in there... so much so that I don't think I can even use it as is  :-/

And, I ordered some 17670s and more of the RCR123A (same ones) for various projects... so I hope I can find something that works...

Also, just a note, my drivers fit on there pretty well, but it takes a little work to get it to fit WELL.  I had to solder the LD pins to the "bottom" of the driver with holes drilled thru the "top" pads and then a piece of wire to connect top to bottom.  This allowed the driver to sit well on the flat portion and throwing a little heatsink grease on the case of the reg IC will help cool it a little bit as well.

I'm also working on a driver ATM that will only have 1V dropout, so it should be more usable with 2xRCR123As and possibly even with the regular 3.0V ones as well... but I still need to work on the development and I'm pretty busy with school and making my current drivers, so it may not be VERY soon.
 
I purchased a flexdrive 2 for it, I think it will fit there well. But as I sayed before, I think I will build a mxdl first. Kill a couple 16x diodes, you know?^^
rkcstr, is your linear driver compatible with the mxdl builds? because I don´t want to go crazy on DDL driver miniaturization...

ArRaY
 
Haven't tried personally... but I will be as soon as DX can get me the flashlight :)

I bought a heatsink from jayrob a while back, just now finally getting the rest of the stuff, lol. But, the driver sticks out the back just shorter than the Aixiz module back would; I don't know how much room there is behind the heatsink, though. But, with a red, two 3.7V batteries is more than enough, so as long as you can fit the driver in there, should be good to go 8-)
 
rkcstr said:
Haven't tried personally... but I will be as soon as DX can get me the flashlight :)

I bought a heatsink from jayrob a while back, just now finally getting the rest of the stuff, lol.  But, the driver sticks out the back just shorter than the Aixiz module back would; I don't know how much room there is behind the heatsink, though.  But, with a red, two 3.7V batteries is more than enough, so as long as you can fit the driver in there, should be good to go  8-)
Click to expand...

It depends on which MXDL you get.  

The 3405 has plenty of room
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3405

The  4171 is a bit short.  You have to leave the back of the AixiZ module off (or cut it off a bit).  I also "open up" the aluminum part that has the wires  on it to give me a bit more room.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171

The 5387 is also a bit short, but you need part of the back of the module for the set screw so you have to cut a bit off of the back of the module for this one as well.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5387

I don't recommend doing Jayrob's "Pocket Pal" as a first laser.

When you're ready, we will help.

Peace,
dave
 
I started planning my build this evening. It is obvious from the "placement" of the parts that there needs to be a spring in the tail cap. With all the parts in place, there is a 1/4 in. gap between the top of the battery and the bottom of the heat sink.

If I missed this part of the discussion earlier, I apologize, but it is something to be aware of.

Peace,
dave
 
Me too!
Lol, just post them...
Here's mine:
101_1276.jpg
101_1277.jpg
 
Here's a pic of my test setup. For actual build, I was going to use DrLava's driver with a 17670, although now it seems like that may not work :-/ I may use CR123A batteries instead (single with dummy) or just use one of my new driver versions (if I can ever finish it!) with 2 CR123 batteries.

P8291688.jpg


Oh, and hey Jimmy(mcjimthejim), is that wire going from the input - to the ouput -? Thats what it looks like and if so, its not necessary. The input and output have common ground (test with a multimeter, you'll see they're already connected), so you can just remove that. And if you're using an 803T, you can solder the case pin and the negative pin together to complete the battery negative to driver ground.

And those using DrLava's driver, make sure you put some type of insulation on the bottom of the board to prevent any shorting of the pads to the heatsink ;)

Also, I guess my case was made a little small because, as previously mentioned, the 16340 protected battery was too tight to fit in there. Well, I cut the wrapper off and insulated the metal strip going from the positive terminal to the protection PCB and now it fits OK, but still doesn't move very freely in there... why in the hell would WL make the battery compartment so narrow??
 
I wasn't sleepy and somebody brought me back a driver today (I owe you $20 back) so I decided to go ahead and build this thing

I opted for the flexdrive and CR123 primaries.  It's what the host was designed for and I didn't have to do much modification.  I used part of the back of the module.  I discovered that if I set the screw on the bottom of the module head alone, it would tweak the head out of alignment.  The flexdrive is hot glued into position.  It is held up off of the module.  With the driver pushed to the front, there was plenty of room for the diode needed to limit the voltage from the CR123's.  I wanted to be able to focus the lens while still retaining as much of the look of the host as possible.  I opted to push the module head up against the stock aperture cap and drill out the aperture so that just the lens showed through.  

Here is the heat sink module with all the workings.
wl1-1.jpg



It was lasing fine with power to the module so I put it together.  When I put it all together, the thing builders fear the most happened.  I pushed the button and no light :(
I took the module back out to see where it shorted or got pushed out of position, but everything looked fine.  I put power to it and laser!  :-/
I put it back into the host and nothing

I started tracing the power and found that the tail cap acted like it was anodized.  In order to get continuity, I had to wire brush the threads, sand out the spring contact, and scrape the lip and end of the tube.  After all that, I had light.

Here it is
wl2-1.jpg


Here's what the new aperture looks like
wl3.jpg


Here is the color
wl4.jpg


After reading some more of IgorT's work, I decided to go ahead and push this a bit ;)  I set the driver at 170mA.
Here is the output after AixiZ acrylic
wl5.jpg


I want to thank Murudai for providing the barrels.  However, my biggest thanks goes to Dark Horse.  His custom work on the heat sink/module/switch made this build a breeze

Thank you Dark Horse

Peace,
dave
 
Beautiful build, guys, thanks a milion dark_horse for designing and machining these. Together with the driver people now have a laser that's better than the $2000 original :D
 
Hey drlava,

Are you using a flexdrive with your sonar build, or the new 1v drop linear one? Based on what we have found out up to now, it would seem the linear one would be ideal with 2x3.6 123 batts, if they fit.


Thanks
brtaman
 
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