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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Sonar Laser Cases!

Awesome! I can´t wait for mine to arrive...
My family thinks I am crazy... Running around in the house with some kind of yellow-ish glasses and a violet laser testing things for fluorescence ;D

ArRaY
 





Dark_Horse said:
[quote author=Murudai link=1216368375/140#147 date=1219509987]Well, I can't speak for Dark_Horses part of the deal, but if I could sell those 3 in bulk with immediate payment that would suit me a lot for some other deals I'm doing at the moment.

I'm willing to give even up to a $50 USD saving, maybe. So buy 2, get 1 free almost :D So that's from $237 USD to $187 USD for 3. I'm not sure how much Dark_Horse would be willing to chop off his price, but lets hypothetically say $20, so 3 might go for $167 shipped.

Note that that is hypothetical, and probably a best case scenario for the buyer. Like I said I can't speak for Dark_Horse and how much he would be willing to drop his part of the deal for a bulk order.
Im back, (and bruised everywhere, it was great! ;D)
As some of you already know, I do usually give a discount for buying in qauntities, unfortunatly I cannot give a discount on these, they were a labor of love that were very labor intensive, I will be looking to design something that will be less expensive to build in the future, but for now I am afraid the price stands for the Sonar heat-sinks.
And you bought 10 new Sonar II cases? Why can't you use the older shorter ones? Also, according to Dark_Horse there is a slight difference between Sonar I and Sonar II cases. So there may be a slight difference between Sonar II and the new longer Sonar II cases as well. If you want heatsinks for them I suggest you talk to Dark_Horse about it, you may need to send up one of your cases to get it fitted.
The differences is really more that they corrected a slight design-flaw in the Sonar 1s, the threads were the same size as the whole bore of the inside. This meant that anything you pressed into the tube, would also be pressing through and possibly damaging the threads. In the Sonar 2s, the made the threads a little larger and only provided a short section that they "bored", the rest of the tube is actually smaller, which is why my RCR123's are a little snug, in the Sonar-2 barrel. Non of this affects the laser really, just how manufacturable it is. They made this change to make it easier to produce the part and eliminate hand-fitting, which is almost required with the Sonar 1's.
All of that being said, Murudai is correct, I would need you to send me a barrel to make sure everything would work correctly.
I have an idea which may eliminate the need for such high-tolerances and press-fits, but I will need to develop it. I will not be selling any Sonar heat-sinks for at least a couple of weeks, I need a rest. Also, I am not interested in competing with Murudais efforts to sell his barrels quickly, if you want a working Sonar laser, this is the only place to get the proper materials for now.

**To everyone who has a kit coming, I have matched each heat-sink to your barrel to insure optimal-fit, I have also included in the envelope that contains you "button", a small round piece of adhesive. I punched these out of some pieces of my daughters "press-on-nails" kit, I think it should work good, but I have not tried it myself yet.
Rckstar, your kit has been sent this morning.
Thanks everybody,
DH[/quote]


:o Make sure I get 5 of those marble two packs(total of 10) with my order of 5 heat sinks. (I'll pay the difference).

Let me know when your about to start making them. I'll have to send you one of my cases.
 
Hey murudai,

Sorry for the late reply been away from the forums the past few days, is my tube still reserved?


Check PM. :)


brtaman
 
Mine arrived toaday... I like it really much!
Now I can´t wait for my other other parts to arrive, but they should be here soon.

Also, I figured that it would be great to wire the batterys in parallel. That way would be ideal for the flexdrive. If it doesn´t work out, i have to look for a bigger battery that fits in there nicely.

ArRaY
 
I can't wait to get my case :) but at the same time I know i'll be waiting ages for my batts from dx. i think it is gonna be tough wiring the 123's in parallel as there is a very snug fit for 17mm batts I believe, youd be better of with the 17670 batt imo, that is when dark_horse receives his and tells us how they worked out.

Hey array would it be too much trouble for you to snap a couple of pictures of the SONAR next to a CNI, Newwish, RPL or pretty much any laser for size reference its 20mmx135mm IIRC but numbers are just numbers, a picture would be awesome.


Thanks
brtaman
 
brtaman said:
I believe, youd be better of with the 17670 batt imo,


My Ultrafire Protected 17670's won't fit into the case. I tried four different ones.

Peace,
dave
 
If I had one of these, the pictures would be already taken ;D
Unfortunately I only have a Romisen L-030 but I will take some pictures for comparison.

I wonder what batterys will fit in there since a rcr123a would be the battery of choice for the flexdrive...
The dummybattery is a great thing, but you know, i think it is like giving away runtime...

daguin, would you think they would fit without the plastic insulation?

ArRaY
 
ArRaY said:
daguin, would you think they would fit without the plastic insulation?

They will fit IF you remove the plastic. However, that would mean removing the protection circuit as well (or it will short through the case).

Peace,
dave
 
Yeah, I know that it would short ;D
Well that sucks. If you had a lathe, do you think it would be easy to drill out a few µm to make them fit?

bratman, the romisen is 20 x 110 mm, 25mm shorter than the sonar
 
ArRaY said:
Yeah, I know that  it would short  ;D
Well that sucks. If you had a lathe, do you think it would be easy to drill out a few µm to make them fit?

bratman, the romisen is 20 x 110 mm, 25mm shorter than the sonar

It is certainly possible. However, it would have to be very judicious use of the lathe. These are not thick walled aluminum like the Kryton. These are 1.4mm sheet metal (and that includes the thickness of the paint). Plus, you would have to do this without damaging the threaded section that is at BOTH ends.

Peace,
dave
 
Daguin, your 17670's don't fit? :o :-/ uh oh.

Aren't 123's 17mm just like the 17670s? I was sure that the 17670's would fit, based on what we gathered in this thread. How much is missing? I ordered the 17670 and the package has already been packed so its too late for me to change the order. Guess it is gonna take longer then I thought to get my sonar working :-/


Thanks
brtaman
 
I see what you mean. :'(
Just curious, do you know the measurements of the kryton off your head?

Not sure though, but I think I will build an mdxl first before touching this beauty.

Anyway, i took some pictures, but they turned out not as well as I thought.
As soon as i get them on my pc, I will upload them.
 
brtaman said:
Daguin, your 17670's don't fit?  :o  :-/ uh oh.
Aren't 123's 17mm just like the 17670s? I was sure that the 17670's would fit, based on what we gathered in this thread. How much is missing? I ordered the 17670 and the package has already been packed so its too late for me to change the order. Guess it is gonna take longer then I thought to get my sonar working  :-/
Thanks
brtaman


ID of sonar case @ battery area = 16.72mm
CR123 = 16.35mm
Stripped 17670 = 16.64mm
Protected 17670 = 16.92mm (over the protection "strap")

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
[quote author=ArRaY link=1216368375/160#168 date=1219933282]Yeah, I know that  it would short  ;D
Well that sucks. If you had a lathe, do you think it would be easy to drill out a few µm to make them fit?

bratman, the romisen is 20 x 110 mm, 25mm shorter than the sonar

It is certainly possible. However, it would have to be very judicious use of the lathe.  These are not thick walled aluminum like the Kryton.  These are 1.4mm sheet metal (and that includes the thickness of the paint).  Plus, you would have to do this without damaging the threaded section that is at BOTH ends.

Peace,
dave[/quote]
This is really disappointing news, I was really hoping to use that battery. So is anyone still thinking a 18650 "should" fit?? I mentioned they were tight. They did remove a little more material in the Sonar 1s, but that made it more difficult to install the heat-sink. It would be very touchy to go in a cut that little out of the bore, if the barrel were not chucked-up in the perfect center, it will cut through the wall before it cut all the way around the ID. Not to mention possibly damaging the powder-coated finish on the outside. I will give it a try with mine when I get the battery and let you guys know.
DH
 
Oh well just ordered a pair of cr123's, first time 123 user :P hope the 17670's fit, I read on the DX site that they vary greatly in size, so I have my fingers crossed as it seems to be the ideal battery to be used with a step-up driver in the SONAR.

I can't believe wicked didn't set up an ID of exactly 17mm as according to industry standards that is what the 123's should be, I am sure there are also 123's which come from the factory just as fat as the 17670's...I don't know with whom I should be disapointed the batt manufacturers or wicked ::)


Thanks
brtaman

PS Have you finished up 3 South yet?
 
Dark_Horse said:
This is really disappointing news, I was really hoping to use that battery. So is anyone still thinking a 18650 "should" fit?? I mentioned they were tight. They did remove a little more material in the Sonar 1s, but that made it more difficult to install the heat-sink. It would be very touchy to go in a cut that little out of the bore, if the barrel were not chucked-up in the perfect center, it will cut through the wall before it cut all the way around the ID. Not to mention possibly damaging the powder-coated finish on the outside. I will give it a try with mine when I get the battery and let you guys know.
DH

I don't think I would use the lathe.  I sometimes have to "open up" the MXDL tubes to accommodate the 17670.  I use a sanding "barrel" in a Dremel, held in my hand.  With this tube you (and I) will have to rig up a "sleeve" to protect the threads and use a longer shaft barrel.  This way only a very little material is removed at a time and you can stop when the battery slides in and out easily.

If one is using a dummy and a single 123, you don't need to change anything.

Of course if one was going to use a dummy, a single ICR 123 (the rechargeable 123 @ 3.7V) could be used. Using a single ICR 123 one would only have to open the the tube slightly. They are only 16.70mm, but this is close enough to increase the possibility of a stuck battery too real for my comfort level.

Peace,
dave
 


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