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FrozenGate by Avery

Free: "Wandering box of laser goods" USA only

Sorry guys I been really busy trying to catch up my machining orders and have not posted but the box showed up here Saturday and I have only look'd as far as the magnesium strips :crackup:

I'll give it a once over and put in some goodies and send it on the way :)

@ Jeff, the tubes look like 6N11 and there is a star on them, one is getting hard to read so I didn't pull them out for a good look.

I love the sound of tube amps, it's richer and more like real life sound, I was eyeballing the amp but I have way too many irons in the fire now :whistle:

Amp pulled for my friend Wiz in Oregon :beer:

BTW thanks some one for the big gold box :D
 
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read the first post bud besides the list is set and that is it thought i tried to get a noob box going and it fell flat
 
Jeff K- when you say gold box, are you talking about the empty IR laser housing with the thin silver lid?

Thanks for looking into the tube type, I know Wizard and I have been discussing the circuit topology and what I recalled it being. You just confirmed my memory of what it was. That tube is the equivalent of the venerable NOS American/European made 6DJ8, one of the most popular current drive medium/low gain tubes ever made.

So that pretty much settles my suspicions Wizard, I am almost certain it is a cathode follower, 0dB or <1 gain, line drive preamps. I doubt you'll want to attempt trying to modify it to accept a 7075. Besides the pin out being so dissimilar all of the Load, bias, and grid leak resistors would require significant value changes just to make it work even poorly. I suppose if your planning to drive any one of the thousands of solid state amplifiers out there with an input impedance of 50k or more it could be made to sound ok. Trying to drive a <20k load would be less than desirable.

I'm pretty sure they make a converting socket for the pin out of this tube and the 12A## series somewhere. I've also seen people take an old dead miniature 9 pin tube and crack off the bottom shelf with the pins and solder them to the bottom of a 9 pin (even octal 8) socket and make their own converters. This would probably be the easiest way to try your experiment with the 12AX7/7075 class of tube. Then you could also try the 12AU7 which would work probably as a direct replacement aside from the pins, and sound really good with some value adjustments on the load and bias resistors.

Also, now that I know the tube I can say with a fair amount of confidence it was probably set up to run an HT of 120-150v.

All this tube talk has got me revved up again over glass electronics. I may try to design a laser diode driver using a tube circuit to regulate current. Since there's no tube I am aware of that will come close to being able to operate in the range of <10v and at currents as high as used in the more powerful diodes I like to play with, it would require some sort of hybrid tube / pass transistor arrangement. You think you could SPICE me up a circuit like this? I mean you are the only Wizard I know with an electrical engineering degree. You should just be able to wave a wand over your keyboard and make one materialize on the screen. I'm thinking why not an M140 running at a solid 1.8a. Give it some thought. This would make an awesome addition to my Steampunk Lumia. Imagine the beautiful orange and blue glowing tubes perched somewhere clearly visible and paired with a couple blazing collimated beams of photons tuned to the red and blue spectrum. I'm drooling over my iPad as we speak....
 
I think we could squeeze 1.8 amps through a few HOTs in parallel. If we're gonna do a tube driver circuit then it's gotta be a TUBE driver circuit--No semiconductors allowed. Let me pore through my old tube data sheets and I'll see what I can do 8-)

Jmillerdoc said:
Jeff K- when you say gold box, are you talking about the empty IR laser housing with the thin silver lid?

Thanks for looking into the tube type, I know Wizard and I have been discussing the circuit topology and what I recalled it being. You just confirmed my memory of what it was. That tube is the equivalent of the venerable NOS American/European made 6DJ8, one of the most popular current drive medium/low gain tubes ever made.

So that pretty much settles my suspicions Wizard, I am almost certain it is a cathode follower, 0dB or <1 gain, line drive preamps. I doubt you'll want to attempt trying to modify it to accept a 7075. Besides the pin out being so dissimilar all of the Load, bias, and grid leak resistors would require significant value changes just to make it work even poorly. I suppose if your planning to drive any one of the thousands of solid state amplifiers out there with an input impedance of 50k or more it could be made to sound ok. Trying to drive a <20k load would be less than desirable.

I'm pretty sure they make a converting socket for the pin out of this tube and the 12A## series somewhere. I've also seen people take an old dead miniature 9 pin tube and crack off the bottom shelf with the pins and solder them to the bottom of a 9 pin (even octal 8) socket and make their own converters. This would probably be the easiest way to try your experiment with the 12AX7/7075 class of tube. Then you could also try the 12AU7 which would work probably as a direct replacement aside from the pins, and sound really good with some value adjustments on the load and bias resistors.

Also, now that I know the tube I can say with a fair amount of confidence it was probably set up to run an HT of 120-150v.

All this tube talk has got me revved up again over glass electronics. I may try to design a laser diode driver using a tube circuit to regulate current. Since there's no tube I am aware of that will come close to being able to operate in the range of <10v and at currents as high as used in the more powerful diodes I like to play with, it would require some sort of hybrid tube / pass transistor arrangement. You think you could SPICE me up a circuit like this? I mean you are the only Wizard I know with an electrical engineering degree. You should just be able to wave a wand over your keyboard and make one materialize on the screen. I'm thinking why not an M140 running at a solid 1.8a. Give it some thought. This would make an awesome addition to my Steampunk Lumia. Imagine the beautiful orange and blue glowing tubes perched somewhere clearly visible and paired with a couple blazing collimated beams of photons tuned to the red and blue spectrum. I'm drooling over my iPad as we speak....
Click to expand...
 
Possibly run some laser diodes in Series to get the voltage up and also run some of the old radio tubes they used in automobiles in parallel to get the current up.
 
Jmillerdoc said:
Possibly run some laser diodes in Series to get the voltage up and also run some of the old radio tubes they used in automobiles in parallel to get the current up.
Click to expand...


I think a trio of 6LF6'es or a quartet of 6DQ5 HOT tubes would be the ticket. The 6DQ5's would be pushed pretty darned hard but they could do the job with relatively low plate voltage. Linearity would be terrible under those operating conditions but all we're after is a constant current source, not high fidelity. 100 kHz blanking should be a snap though.

@ 100 volts on the plates each 6DQ5 would dissipate ~45-50 watts at the plate (approaching dull red glow) which is about twice the rated, plus 15 watts for the filament. This isn't about efficiency though, this is about style:cool:
 
What would be the lowest voltage you could get with these for the voltage seen by the LD? I'm not familiar with the drop across these tubes. Will take a look at the data on them later. I was trying to draw a few schematics using a pass transistor coupled to a tube circuit that the LD constant current source would be regulated by. If an all tube circuit can be built then I would try it. The simplest route though is to use a hybrid sand and glass circuit. Do you have a good spice modeling program you could model a hybrid with as well? Since even a hybrid circuit like this is so out of the bounds from what I've done as far as hybrids go, it has become a bit confusing to me as I try to work through it. Even if you could pull off a all tube driver I would love for you to help me with a hybrid one as well. Just in case the all tube one didn't work well.
 
What if you coupled it through a transformer to reduce voltage and boost current and went switchmode?
Or would that be too much to ask? Maybe it would make things too complicated.
 
YES and thanks for the solder sample, it's better than my solder but then that is to be expected when it contains Ag so now
I have to save up $100.00 so I can buy a 1 pound roll of it, Great stuff it wets an iron tip like nobody's business.

Now I need a shipping address to send this box along to :whistle:



Jmillerdoc said:
Jeff K- when you say gold box, are you talking about the empty IR laser housing with the thin silver lid? .
Click to expand...
 
Jmillerdoc said:
Not a bad idea at all. Could even make one in a true steampunk spirit.
Click to expand...

Doing this as a switchmode PS with a transformer is looking pretty good. That's the service the HOTs were designed for in the first place.

Spice models for these tubes are non-existent as far as I can tell. The only spice models for vacuum tubes I've been able to find in the various libraries are for audio tubes and RF power tubes. I'll need to work out a model of a 6DQ5 or a 6DQ6. Even a rough model should work as a starting point for a SMPS.
 
Wizard, I just might know of a place in Wyoming that may have some 6DQ5s or some 6DQ6s. Can't say for sure, but they had the tubes back in the late 80s and may have some still in stock. That was the last time I talked to them, but it is possible.
 
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