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FrozenGate by Avery

WTB: LPM with fast response (Ophir?) sensor.






rhd said:
Unlike the panel DTR suggested, this one states that it must run from a 5V supply. In reality, do you think I can run it from a 9V power source?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately No. That is why i had to by two.;)

I killed the First one because i accidentally hooked up the LM7805 the wrong way. It died Instantly at 12v. I dont know what would happen at 9V but i assume the same thing.

Thats all you have to do is hook up a simple 7805 cuircuit. Then you can run your wall wart to the LM7805.
 
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rhd said:
Unlike the panel DTR suggested, this one states that it must run from a 5V supply. In reality, do you think I can run it from a 9V power source?
Click to expand...

The one I posted requires 5V as well. I use a 5V voltage regulator on the panel meeter's power input.:beer:
 
DTR said:
The one I posted requires 5V as well. I use a 5V voltage regulator on the panel meeter's power input.:beer:
Click to expand...

You're right. I've looked at so many of these over the past two weeks that I'm getting all mixed the heck up :) I ordered two last week to monitor the voltage of my giant "Tent Melter" 40x 18650 camping lantern creation.

Order placed! Grabbing:

- Ophir Thermopile
- Blue LED Display
- A couple LM7805s tacked on to my next Digikey order

I just need to find a neat housing now, and I'm set.

EDIT: I really like this :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-Metal-...420?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5ca28bfc
 
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BTW Jerry - Why is it that you need a DPDT switch?

I think I'm missing something, because I can only account for the need to have a DPST switch.
 
IIRC because you cant run the Display and Ophir head of the same Power supply.

But that might only apply for the Some Amp Circuits.
 
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lazeerer said:
IIRC because you cant run the Display and Ophir head of the same Power supply.

But that might only apply for the Some Amp Circuits.
Click to expand...

I get the DP, what I don't get is the DT.

DPST makes sense, because you can cut both the +9 and the -9. SPST wouldn't allow you to cut both +/-.

What doesn't make sense (to me) is the need for DPDT instead of just DPST. Why do you need Double-Throw ?
 
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I have mine of the same power source:eg: I used the same panel that Lazeerer linked to.
12VDC ->Dual Rail Circuit->+6VDCRail->LM1117(5VFixed Version)->Panel
 
Jib - I want to run mine off 9V bats, so I'm not concerned about a dual rail circuit, or wall wart power. But hypothetically -

Could you take a 10V supply, run parallel feeds from it to an LM7805 and an LM7810, then use the (+) Out from the 7805 as a virtual GND, the (+) Out from the 7810 as a +5V, and the common GND as a -5V ?
 
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Well ... You would need 12V for the 7810 to regulate 10V since the dropout is 2V. But other than that I don't see why not.
 
rhd said:
I get the DP, what I don't get is the DT.

DPST makes sense, because you can cut both the +9 and the -9. SPST wouldn't allow you to cut both +/-.

What doesn't make sense (to me) is the need for DPDT instead of just DPST. Why do you need Double-Throw ?
Click to expand...

You can use a DPST switch... it will do the job..
DPDT 2 position switches are more commonly used/found
and are cheaper because of availability.

Jerry
 
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I've got my Ophir here, and I'm noticing some strange behavior.

For REDs, it tends to read higher (as much as 15%) than my laser bee. For BLUES, it tends to read lower (~15 to 20%) than my laser bee.

Does the Ophir require any sort of correction scheme for different wavelengths? Why would it be over / under based on the type of laser measured?
 
Is the surface of the sensor scratched or damaged? Are you measuring the lasers at a constant distance away from the meter?
 
Ophir surface is perfect - the sensor is brand new (it's the New-Old-Stock from eBay).

The laserbee surface is almost perfect also. There's one line (scratch) but it's not in the central area where the beam would hit anyway. Honestly, it's negligible (I've seen what "scratches" can look like on these sensors, and this is nothing).
 
Make sure to Hit the Ophir sensor right in the Middle. On Mine if its not Directly in the middle you will get different readings.

Make sure you dont have the "dot" defocused so much as that will also effect your reading.

Did you zero out you Ophir head or did it come already set to Zeroed.?<<< Most have to be Zeroed.

IF you had to Zero it which pot did you turn inside the head.?
 
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