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FrozenGate by Avery

The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

daguin said:
Yes. They come with all the bits n bobs needed to make a laser host.

You will still need the diode, the driver, the battery, the charger, and (if you are going with a high powered diode) a glass lens, as well as the tools and material to complete a laser (solder, diode press, etc.)

Peace,
dave
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Also with the assembling question I ment to really ask if the "bits n bobs" would be provided with the host. But that has been answered, thanks Dave.

Yeah, I am not worried about putting the host with the tail clicky together (and the laser), that is easy peasy!

Edit: Ken, I am sending you an email about the two mohrenberg hosts I sent you.
 





Ken have you ever considered trying to have one of the barrels Color Case Hardened? If it's possible with aluminum it would be badass. I was actually in Wright, but it's close enough to Gillette anyway. There are a few different ways to anodize aluminum, but the methods with the best and hardest coatings are always the most noxious. Definitely something to do with adequate ventilation.
 
Coherent Light said:
Ken have you ever considered trying to have one of the barrels Color Case Hardened? If it's possible with aluminum it would be badass. I was actually in Wright, but it's close enough to Gillette anyway. There are a few different ways to anodize aluminum, but the methods with the best and hardest coatings are always the most noxious. Definitely something to do with adequate ventilation.
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Case Hardening can only be done with steel sadly. Essentially the anodizing process does the same thing (kinda) by turning the top surface into aluminum oxide, which is much harder than aluminum. To get a REALLY hard surface on aluminum, you do a cold anodizing or Type III Anodizing, which requires more time, and a lower bath temperature. Sadly, this form of anodizing doesn't take colors very well as the pores created from the anodizing don't absorb the dyes very well as they are much smaller. (it's kind of amazing that I didn't know anything about anodizing a year ago and how quickly I learned it)

What I will be doing is Type II anodizing and as long as it's sealed properly, gives a nice hard surface and still absorbs the dye very well.
 
The is too bad about CCH as no 2 are ever alike. You had a crash course.:yh: I'm a member on a couple of finishing forums although not a very active one. They're a good resource for finding the chemicals needed in Plating, Anodizing and the like. Are you're doing basic black or another color for the finish?
 
I dont think walnuts will work with the bbs - the point of the separate stages is to go through grades of abrasive like with sand paper.....!
 
Coherent Light said:
The is too bad about CCH as no 2 are ever alike. You had a crash course.:yh: I'm a member on a couple of finishing forums although not a very active one. They're a good resource for finding the chemicals needed in Plating, Anodizing and the like. Are you're doing basic black or another color for the finish?
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I am a member of the Caswell plating forum as well and have garnered a lot of information from there. I am sure if I run into any problems they will be a great resource.

I will be doing a lot of colors including black, and clear.

SMISDY: thanks for the confirmation of the BB's, I really didn't think the combination of the two would work.
 
Yea the forums can really come through in a pinch. Most of what I do involves electroplating, and removing anodized coatings instead of applying them.
 
well, my vibratory polisher isn't strong enough or powerful enough to get 45lbs of BB's moving all that well. Kind of suprises me since I paid so much for a extra large vibratory polisher. I've filled it 2/3 full of BB's and the barrels just move right up onto the top of the BB's so it's not doing much good in actually polishing the barrels. I'm going to let this one run over night and see if it does any good and if not I'm going to go to something similar that isn't as heavy. I will update progress tomorrow.
 
I remember that our stuff also went to the top.... It's been a long time...
 
OK no luck with the BB's. I've repacked them and am going to have to find a new home for them.

I refilled the polisher with the Lyman Tufnut, and let it run for 24hrs. I had some success with the shells at that length. Although I did have issues with the parts rubbing up against each other and causing scratches in the aluminum so I'll have to do these 1 AT A TIME! However this is the solution. I can get a good polish on them that will allow me to anodize them.

Here are some pictures.

Top is unpolished. Middle has been polished on the buffer, bottom has been polished in the vibratory polisher.
ee7865d9.jpg


81b0fea4.jpg


Right is unpolished, middle is buffed, left is vibratory
4482fa3c.jpg
 
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Ken, those look great!

One question though, are you going to leave the hosts as is after the vibratory phase? Or will you buffer them after the vibrator before anodizing?
 
I won't be buffing them. The finish is more than adequate to anodize without any blemishes showing.

If your barrel needs polish and isn't being anodized, I will hit it up with some mothers polish after the vibratory polisher
 
Kenom said:
I won't be buffing them. The finish is more than adequate to anodize without any blemishes showing.

If your barrel needs polish and isn't being anodized, I will hit it up with some mothers polish after the vibratory polisher
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What about if you paid for 'buffed' like I did? Or they good enough? (near buffed/polished)
 
jayrob said:
What about if you paid for 'buffed' like I did? Or they good enough? (near buffed/polished)
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The finish is almost mirror finish direct from the vibratory polisher that hitting it with mothers polish will bring it to a true mirror polish. You'll be picking your teeth in the reflection :D
 
:crackup: Good deal Ken...

Sounds like were getting close for those of us (like me) who only ordered polished ones. (non-anodized) :)
 
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