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FrozenGate by Avery

Powering a bare Arctic?

They are the same diodes, but efficiencies differ. They bin them like PC chips. They run the tests, and put the lesser ones in one bin, the better in the second, ect. The A130 diodes are low efficiencie and take more power to achieve higher mW outputs. You cant push a 130 to 2A, like you can the 140s.
 





The design is based on a natural structure, so variables are abound. And with the tests we have done here, and on PL, its clearly evident thats the fact.
 
A Statistical Analysis of A130 vs A140


EDIT 4 TJ-
powert.bmp

a130vs140t.bmp
 
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Coherent Light said:
Hell the Diode in My Arctic died a while back, and it's been in a box ever since. If I ever get the wherewithal one day I'll rip into it. The heatsink design in them things suck big time, and a new one will eventually be stuffed in mine.
Click to expand...

Don't know about the heatsink sucking, people have left them on for a long time and they've lasted fine, I've ran mine for several minutes straight and it was barely warm. Improvements can always be made, but it's not too bad as is.
 
LMAO How did Dnar make a senior member so quick?

It would be nice to post the pix for us who are not members of PL.
 
I'm still wondering why jander's refused to show pictures?
If there suppose to be some super secret inside the arctic?
Maybe all the arctic parts caked in thermal compound are reflecting the flash and making pictures impossible?
 
"(approximately 3% of the A130 diodes put out less than 0.5w, where as I have yet to see a single dud diode from an A140), however I have also seen a much higher percentage of the <1.2w output diodes form A130s. "
I like this gamble, to bad no one buys a130's anymore.

Can someone post the bmp's please

@moh - He lives around the street from me and I've still don't know the whereabouts of his hideout. I don't even get laser signals back at night.
 
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I'm not trying to be a snot or anything members I'm just trying to work some things out.

That shouldn't be a problem, I contribute quite a bit on this forum so a little slack for
for now would be much appreciated. Please and thank-you.
 
@Prototype

After I removed all the Thermal Grease I ran into heat issues. After I pulled the HeatSink I saw how little contact there was to the host. Mine may have been worse than most, but I stand by my statement.
:friend:
 
Coherent Light said:
@Prototype

After I removed all the Thermal Grease I ran into heat issues. After I pulled the HeatSink I saw how little contact there was to the host. Mine may have been worse than most, but I stand by my statement.
:friend:
Click to expand...

Wow. I ran my G-1 for 90 minutes, and my G2 for 2 hours. Neither got over 105 F.
LED Museum ran his G2 for 8 hours continuous, same temps.

How did you determine you have heat issues? What do your temps measure?
 
ZapU:

before I cleaned out all the crap I could leave it on for an hour or longer. I may have had a really inefficient diode that put out more heat. It died eventually so who knows.
 
Coherent Light said:
ZapU:

before I cleaned out all the crap I could leave it on for an hour or longer. I may have had a really inefficient diode that put out more heat. It died eventually so who knows.
Click to expand...

:oops: Sorry to hear that.

I'd be interested in seeing the insides too.
 
Coherent Light said:
ZapU:

before I cleaned out all the crap I could leave it on for an hour or longer. I may have had a really inefficient diode that put out more heat. It died eventually so who knows.
Click to expand...

It could be that you had a more powerful diode"efficient" rather then an inefficient one as it produced more heat maybe you had an up to spec one.

I think that would cause more heat then one inefficient.

My .02 cents
 
I compared it to My 445 labby that I know was at least 1w and it seemed to only have about 1/2 to 3/4 of it's output. No LPM but the labby was brighter and burned faster. I thought the A130's would put out more heat at the same wattage in relation to the A140's. I could be wrong on that.
 
@janders:
I'm sorry about how this thread went off-topic, and I'm partially responsible...

So basically you are trying to bypass the smart-switch when you want to turn
the thing on?
I know nothing about the Arctic, but is the smartswitch an "external" component wired
to the driver?
Then it might not be so hard to bypass.
Or is it an integral part of the driver? That would complicate things for you.
 
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