Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Power Meter Calibration and Comparison

silly boy.  it's not an official Kenometer unless I put it together.  Then it's just a coherent therma meter and board diy'd
:D

We've got a break down now at about $12 or less per participant.
 





Kenom said:
silly boy. it's not an official Kenometer unless I put it together. Then it's just a coherent therma meter and board diy'd
:D

We've got a break down now at about $12 or less per participant.
Click to expand...


Airy52ometer :-/

It just doesn't roll of the tongue well.

Peace,
dave
 
Cone on guys, which is it gonna be? It's almost as everyone is changing their minds each day, and Kenom is not being very clear either. (or was that a bit of sarcasm?)

I once stated that I'd like to have it with a switch in the cord, and I also stated that I wanted to see it with external PSU. I never mentioned a box. Maybe people visualize a box when they hear about an external PSU, and I honestly say that I even haven't thought seriously about hooking the dorcy's to the mains. (*vision* dorcy with wire coming from between the head and the body)

I draw rough diagrams of suitable ideas I've heard people talking about (or what I thought it was about, or what I imagined myself (option D)) (suitable as in those configurationshave a switch in the cord and a PSU, which is what I think the majority is voting for)
I think option A is by far the best way to go.

whichconfiguration.gif


Note: Option B should have caps, not because other people usually do this, but to compensate for the wires, which act as an inductor (like a coil). Series inductance creates voltage spikes which may kill the laser diode. Series inductance and parallell capacitance cancel each other out (leaving a 2nd order low pass filter as a byproduct), and any excess capacitance is even very good for the laser.
 
Probably more along the lines of this

Each individual laser would have a plug on the back of the laser itself where the endcap would normally be that you could just plug the adapter into.
 

Attachments

  • sample_001.jpg
    sample_001.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 77
Kenom said:
I'll even send you my keyswitch so that, that can be the switch on the side.  just a teenie safety feature.  

Edit.  We cannot have the driver in the box since we are powering two lasers not 1.  Each driver will have to be set in the laser with the one connection to the lasers.  so a connector would be NEEDED not suggested.

Here is the list of participants.

who's participating?  I am.

Jayrob,
Daguin
Zom-b
IgorT (Slovenia)
Rckstr.
danq
muledeer
happytomato (Uk.)
Gooeygus.
Scopeguy
pullbangdead
electron
pseudonomen137
 
Total 13 participants.
Click to expand...


I think you miss me, I want to play too!
 
Wow, ok, lots of discussion going on.

First, I didn't realize we were doing more than one laser, I know it was being discussed.  Anyway, in that case, a box (at least a big one) seems like overkill.  For international persons, I could just do a simple IEC to US plug adapter, those in the US can just straight plug in the AC adapter.

If we don't want a PSU box, just the adapter, I could either put a switch inline or I could use a very small project box to put Kenom's keyswitch in.  Also, I could put a small inline connector and supply 2 plugs for connecting between the two different lasers.
 
whichever works for you rckstr. We know that your competent and whatever solution you do decide upon will integrate seamlessly with my work. I'm going to use two of your adjustable regulators. so I can set the laser and seal it up when the output is where I want it.
 
That's the kind of life we needed in this thread!

Now we're talking! 8-)

Sounds like were getting close again.... Maybe we should give our City, State, Zip Code to go with the list for later organization.
jayrob - Oakley, CA 94561 (Or, PM to Kenom I guess)
Jay
 
Kenom, did you want to use the key switch? In that case, it may be simplest to just make a PSU box with the IEC and output connectors built in along with some kind of power indicator. I don't think it should cost very much total to put together. I'll make up a diagram of what I'm trying to describe probably tomorrow. Also, is the switch rated for 250VAC or is it DC rated?

Also, I was going to use a mini-DIN connector that will allow a wired plug for each laser to be connected or disconnected from the power easily. One question, though, are regular push-in connectors fine, or would you guys prefer locking connectors? The locking connectors would cost about $13 versus ~$4 for the non-locking.
 
Non locking is fine.  It doesnt' need to be much.  just a basic molex would work best.We are only connecting two wires here nothing more.  I have seen some basic two wire connectors at ratshack.  As far as the switch it doesnt' have to be the key switch but an on/off is necessary.  a power indicator would be nice too. Mini-din would be really nice though.
 
So if we're doing the dorcy thing, I dont really understand why we would need a PSU box. Sure it would be fancy and neat looking, but it would be just as easy to plug the wall-wart right into the back of the laser, assuming the drivers are integrated into the laser. This would also save on shipping.
 
Oh and if people are worried about re-mote turn on, just put a switch in line with the jack that goes into the laser. easy!
 
GooeyGus said:
So if we're doing the dorcy thing, I dont really understand why we would need a PSU box. Sure it would be fancy and neat looking, but it would be just as easy to plug the wall-wart right into the back of the laser, assuming the drivers are integrated into the laser. This would also save on shipping.
Click to expand...

Yes it would... the only problem I had was if we wanted an ON/OFF switch, it would need a box (unless I salvage an inline "lamp switch", but that just seems tacky). The other problem is for those outside of US/Canada, they would need an adapter for the US plug, which is why I was going to use an standard IEC (computer power cord) connector so they could just find a computer power cable instead of trying to find a US to [their country] adapter.

The box I was looking to use is not much bigger than the AC adapter itself, at 2.6x5.5x1.1" (maybe even smaller), would have an IEC input connector, power switch and indicator on one end, then have a mini-DIN connector on the other side, which I would include the two mating connectors to put on the ends of the leads to the laser housing so they could just plug right in. The additional parts cost would be $10, so not a huge investment... I'm not even really concerned about being reimbursed, you could consider it my contribution.

Anyway, that's just what I worked on last night, but nothing's definite... I'm cool with building whatever the consensus is on what we should do.

Here's a mockup of what I was thinking:
psu.jpg
 
I'm not for or against a box at all. It looks really great! I'm just thinking of keeping it as simple as possible. I was thinking of a lamp switch on the cord ;D

So whatever people think is best is what I'm going with :D
 
hahaha, I was thinkin the lamp switch too. too funny. The concern I have with the mini din is how big the thing is. It may end up taking a large section of the laser body. If it were the size of a ps2 keyboard connection then it would work ok. Possibly even a 1/8" mono headphone adapter. I think some kind of molex connector would be easiest.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top