bryce007
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He's trying to sell meters, not wives :crackup::crackup:
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FrozenGate by Avery
Poll: What do you want to see in a Power Meter?
- Thread starter MarioMaster
- Start date
He's trying to sell meters, not wives :crackup::crackup:
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I think that a USB kenometer would be awsome!
I've always been quite "cheap" when it comes to my laser stuff (ya, my budget is low).
I've always been quite "cheap" when it comes to my laser stuff (ya, my budget is low).
Gryphon
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Answering post title:
1. Sensor head
2. Digital read out
3. On/Off switch
Its that simple
1. Sensor head
2. Digital read out
3. On/Off switch
Its that simple
Kenom
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you don't want a zero button/knob? Makes it kinda difficult if your readings are off because you started your measurement when the readout was +6mw to begin with.
Answering post title:
1. Sensor head
2. Digital read out
3. On/Off switch
Its that simple
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If the kenometer requirers software, then please make it Mac compatible!
That would work better than on my windows XP partition.
Just a simple software with a power indicator, a "set to zero" option, a peak reading and a "start recording" and "stop recording" for charts.
That would be awesome.
That would work better than on my windows XP partition.
Just a simple software with a power indicator, a "set to zero" option, a peak reading and a "start recording" and "stop recording" for charts.
That would be awesome.
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I kinda thought they already had a USB connection...
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@BuildAbluraylaser...
What's with your crazy Fonts... can barely read the last post....
BTW... who uses a mac for other than multimedia stuff and games...
A PC is for serious work... like graphing Lasers...
:san:
@SmurfT....
What did you "kinda" think already had a USB connection...:thinking:
Jerry
What's with your crazy Fonts... can barely read the last post....
BTW... who uses a mac for other than multimedia stuff and games...
A PC is for serious work... like graphing Lasers...
:san:@SmurfT....
What did you "kinda" think already had a USB connection...:thinking:
Jerry
Last edited:
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@Lasersbee
I'm just trying to be original....
I prefer working on my Mac because it's twice as fast as windows.
I have a lot of hope for a USB Kenometer.
I'm just trying to be original....
I prefer working on my Mac because it's twice as fast as windows.
I have a lot of hope for a USB Kenometer.
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@BuildAbluraylaser...
What's with your crazy Fonts... can barely read the last post....
BTW... who uses a mac for other than multimedia stuff and games...
A PC is for serious work... like graphing Lasers...
@SmurfT....
What did you "kinda" think already had a USB connection...:thinking:
Jerry
Well everyone always talks about them having graphing capabilities. I KINDA thought that meant you plug it into your computer and it graphs it onto your screen....
daguin
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I want a BIG thermopile so I don't have to aim.
Is that too much to ask?
Peace,
dave
Is that too much to ask?
Peace,
dave
larrball
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i take it that is you'r setup dave?
Man that's huge!
Man that's huge!
Kenom
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hahaha tetris. Auto zero would be fail.
Imagine the thing starts zerooing itself WHILE the laser is pointed at it. "whatya mean this laser is zero mW?" wouldn't work very well.
Nice idea though.
Imagine the thing starts zerooing itself WHILE the laser is pointed at it. "whatya mean this laser is zero mW?" wouldn't work very well.
Nice idea though.
bryce007
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I built my auto zeroing meter a while back, and I got the same results as you mentioned ken:
Kenom
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hahahaha
HIMNL9
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I want a BIG thermopile so I don't have to aim.
Is that too much to ask?
Peace,
dave
LOL ..... first, what the hell is that, an ophir 1KW head ? .....
second, there you see how a real laser hobbyst live ..... i mean, look the rests of the breakfast in the little dish, in the left up corner .....
j/k
BTW, Ken, no auto-zero, not if it's not started from the user, with a button, anyway ..... but, if the space is not a problem, and if you're thinking about a high precision version, a separate enclosure with a thermal stabilizer for the head, can be an add-on that can worth the efforts (but only for high precision and stability work, not for quick measures
)And it don't need to be a peltier cooler, anyway ..... all that you need is keep ONE side of the sensor at a fixed temperature, for have a stable and precise readout ..... remember your old heads, that had a thermical stabilized heater on the back ?
Anyway, as far as i can see from the pic of the new head that you've posted, it have a so big thermal mass, compared with the mass of the sensor, that probably a simple box with a window for the beam (and, maybe, a short piece of tube in front, for take away convection and airflow problems) can be more than enough for grant precision and stability, for a normal usage .....