New 9mm 445 diodes

[lazeerer]

Thanks for the advice

So b ecause I don't have one of Jay's G2s but I have DTRs, I instead tested out my new 9mm diode with a Aixiz glass. So far, at 1A, I was getting 1.12W out, and at 1.4A, I was getting 1.56W out, and that was AFTER it had warmed up a while. These things are pretty awesome - if I was using a G2, I would probably expect almost 2W with 1.4A in! Gonna do some further testing.

WOW! At 1.87A, I was getting 2W with an Aixiz glass D:

You can Mount the Lens Yourself like i did.

I Mounted the stock projector lens In one of my G1 Lenses Aixiz nut Housing that I have purchased from Jayrob.

You can Contact Jay and Purchase one of his Lens Nuts here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-405-g-1-glass-lens-mod-31-increase-vs-aixiz-22497.html

&

Your Crazy that you are using an Aixiz Glass lens Higher then 1.6W. You are pushing your luck in killing your diode.!

Best for you not to do that again. There is Way to much back reflection and restriction from that. Nearly 400mW is being restricted. That is Not good and will either Kill,Make you diode heat up more or degrade it.Be careful.

 

[Wolfman29]

Yeah, I figured it was a risk. So how did you mount it yourself? Anyway, I'll try to figure it out. Fortunately, no degradation or anything. Did a solid 2.05W at 1.9A for over a minute (shut it off at the minute mark and hadn't started dropping yet).

 

[kiyoukan]

Also you guys need to note that these diodes are not made directly by Nichia, They develop them and then another company makes the diodes for production sales.
These diodes do not cost very much to make material wise.
The company has been around long enough that the cost is very low and the labor is damn near free.
I have yet to be able to talk directly with the manufacturer but i have talked in depth with a trading company that sells their diodes and optics.
Buying directly from nichia is a big mistake, you will pay 1,000$+ but you can also get free sample to.
The 9mm diode is going to do way better than any 5.6mm diode.
It will have a longer life and more stable power.
Also price should drop within 6-8 months.
Its very new once they are a bit older the price per projector should be around the 1400$ mark

 

[lazeerer]

Yeah, I figured it was a risk. So how did you mount it yourself? Anyway, I'll try to figure it out. Fortunately, no degradation or anything. Did a solid 2.05W at 1.9A for over a minute (shut it off at the minute mark and hadn't started dropping yet).

Yeah Just be careful with expensive diode like this. Regular 445nm diodes for private use i use them higher then 1.6W because i dont care if i kill a diode and i can always replace it no big-E. However since these are like "one of kind diodes" i would hate to see you loose the diode over something stupid like this.

As a Note: I have seen and personal seen diodes die of this enough times to confirm it does happen.


I mounted the lenses very easy.

I took the lens out of its bracket "carefully" and then from one of jayrob's G1 Assembly's that i bought from him that i had here already from a previous purchase i just used that to mount it in there.

Jayrob said the lens is the same size as his G1 lenses so it was perfect.

Just buy the mount for Jay:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-405-g-1-glass-lens-mod-31-increase-vs-aixiz-22497.html

There is other ways to mount it too like DTR's G2 are mounted but i dont have any of them on hand. He might also sell you a lens Holder.

 

[Wolfman29]

Hmm. I tried it with DTRs lens holder and it didn't work - couldn't get close enough to the can. Very odd :thinking:.

 

[LASER66]

A;
What Geltec lens are you referring?
G-1 , G-2 and Geltec "G-3" are all glass lenses. The Geltec is just a name of the company due to Sol- Gel technique used for some glass forming in 1990's and maybe now. I worked at NRL where this technique was patented, and used to make preforms for fiber optics. Gel dried to make glass in various shapes. However, before I got these this was done and while I was there we just melted salts to form the "glass." I use quotes since it is not glass but Zirconium Fluoride based salts- cool stuff for IR with low melting points.
Anyway back on topic...
There are lenses with a plastic coating on the front forming a dedicated shaped surface to form the outer layer of the lens. Maybe it's one of those types, but unlikely as that is an even more expensive process than the thermal pellet forming used for G Series lenses.
Nice investigative work!
W

You got it buddy. If the projector was 400-500$ cheap it would be Great.



The Gel Feel was from dropping the Lens and the way it sounded. It did not sound like the G1 lens is what iam saying. It sounded like my Geltec lenses. Should have said that then it feels like Glass/Gel Like.:Tinfoil: Nothing wrong with that But Just saying it sounds more of a Geltec lens then a G1 does. Iam sure you know what iam talking about.

Thanks for the Testing +3.:beer:

 

[lazeerer]

Hmm. I tried it with DTRs lens holder and it didn't work - couldn't get close enough to the can. Very odd :thinking:.

Did you remove it out of the bracket.? It should work.

A;
What Geltec lens are you referring?
G-1 , G-2 and Geltec "G-3" are all glass lenses. The Geltec is just a name of the company due to Sol- Gel technique used for some glass forming in 1990's and maybe now. I worked at NRL where this technique was patented, and used to make preforms for fiber optics. Gel dried to make glass in various shapes. However, before I got these this was done and while I was there we just melted salts to form the "glass." I use quotes since it is not glass but Zirconium Fluoride based salts- cool stuff for IR with low melting points.
Anyway back on topic...
There are lenses with a plastic coating on the front forming a dedicated shaped surface to form the outer layer of the lens. Maybe it's one of those types, but unlikely as that is an even more expensive process than the thermal pellet forming used for G Series lenses.
Nice investigative work!
W

Email me if you want but I know its still Glass but the Glass is NOT the same as a G1/G2 lens. I should have said Plastic/Glass sounding not Gel/Glass sounding. Well I dont think its the same. The G lenses look like Glass. Could be what you saying about the Plastic coating around it. I dont know. I dont know what lens it is other then its a Geltec lens as i been told by the forum seller.

I dont know technical terms for lenses I just buy them. They are More Expansive then the G 1/2 at 30$ and They are NOT as good for blue power wise but they give a better dot and is why i like them however i still mostly use 405-G-1/2 lenses. Well 98% of the time.

They are still the best ou there for power.

When are the G3 coming.? Would be nice to see those for sale.

Dont quit fallow you on the "Nice investigative work!?" Care to explain.? As iam trying to make sense of it but cant see where thats coming from.?:thinking:

 

[Wolfman29]

Yeah, I removed the stock lens from the bracket, I unscrewed the lens holder for DTRs G2, removed the lens, put the new lens in the holder, and tried to screw on the lens holder. It couldn't get close enough to the diode :thinking:

 

[jayrob]

Yeah, I removed the stock lens from the bracket, I unscrewed the lens holder for DTRs G2, removed the lens, put the new lens in the holder, and tried to screw on the lens holder. It couldn't get close enough to the diode :thinking:

It's because it is a very 'close focus' lens design...

Meaning that you need to be very close to the diode in order to get focus.

I can sell you just the machined lens parts minus the G1 optic if you want, and it will work for that lens. ($27 plus $2 dollars shipping - U.S.)

For that, you will receive what is shown in this picture: (minus the optic)

That's where the work is for my lens mount. Sizing the I.D. of the lens nut, enlarging the entry aperture, and making the retaining sleeve...

One thing that should be mentioned, is that the diode must be within reach of the lens. As long as it is, this will get focus.

I know for sure that it works perfectly with the projector lens, as well as with my 405-G-1 lens using my custom fit module shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-9mm-copper-module-1-2-round-diameter-73447.html

I made the module specific for this 9mm diode, and sized the length for the 405-G-1. With an AixiZ lens, it will stick out the front a little more. (same as with the AixiZ module)

 

[tsteele93]

lol,

Mailed with N1chia today. Thought i am going to ask pricing on their NDB7875 transverse mutimode diode. they mailed me back with this €2830. So i thought ok how many are there is a batch? I mailed they replied: PER PIECE :wtf:

I thought i lost my mind

C4sio must be buying em per 10000000000000000 pieces or something lol

greeting,,

I think Nichia sees us about the same way we look at the 11 year-old kid who wants to buy a 2 watt laser.

 

[Wolfman29]

So truth be told, something horrible just happened. I realized the reason I could not focus all the way down with my lens - the lens could not get close enough to the diode. It just wasn't tapped out that far. Sucks, right?

So I attempted to press it out slowly as to not do any damage... but the press fit must have been stronger than the can of the diode, because it seems like the window broke. Some green shards of something (glass?) fell out of the can. What's weird is that those green shards were not see through, so I don't think it was the window? :thinking:

 

[lazeerer]

***FACEPALM***

I told you to Be Careful.

Its the Window. The green you see is its coating.

You better hope the glass shards dint rip out any of the bonding wires. If it did you killed your diode.

Send you diode to someone that can decane it. Dave comes to mind.

Dont try to decan it yourself. Dont Power the diode again or nothing not even move it around. There might be hope left for it.


Edit:

I have a Picture of the inside look of a 445nm diode still with the window in Its Green.

Let me find it........

 

[benmwv]

It was probably the glass from around the edges of the window with glue on it.

 

[Wolfman29]

Ah. Well it still lases beautifully, actually. Because it's not in a module anymore, I didn't test it to a very high current, but I assume no damage was done. I was very careful removing these glass pieces. As long as degradation doesn't occur from too much oxygen exposure (I think that tends to happen?) then it should be all good. I think I got really lucky. But damn that module not being long enough -.-

 

[justinjja]

So truth be told, something horrible just happened. I realized the reason I could not focus all the way down with my lens - the lens could not get close enough to the diode. It just wasn't tapped out that far. Sucks, right?

Glad it still apears to be working.

So your saying that the threading that lens screws into doesnt go all the way to the diode?

What type of module were you using?

 

[daguin]

Here you can see several windows.
The center of the window is clear with AR coating
Around the outside there is an opaque green glue

Ah. Well it still lases beautifully, actually. Because it's not in a module anymore, I didn't test it to a very high current, but I assume no damage was done. I was very careful removing these glass pieces. As long as degradation doesn't occur from too much oxygen exposure (I think that tends to happen?) then it should be all good. I think I got really lucky. But damn that module not being long enough -.-

Pullbangdead explained very clearly that this is NOT a problem with these diodes
The facets are coated/sealed with a glass material

Start reading at this post and read through to the end
Then work to stop this rumor
http://laserpointerforums.com/f40/445-nm-window-break-72119.html#post1038860

Peace,
dave