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FrozenGate by Avery
Merged 445nm Pictures and Video Thread
- Thread starter SpyderFire
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mfo
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Didn't know that, thanks Jay. So what you're saying is my diagram will work (as it has) just make sure I isolate the case from the negative output for the driver?
I get that 100%, which is why he's experiencing a 1.5A draw from the battery itself. But, if the driver only lets 750mA of that current out and into the diode, then doesn't that mean that 750mA goes into diode, 750mA exits the diode, flows down the host, through the switch and into the negative end of the battery? :thinking:
Didn't know that, thanks Jay. So what you're saying is my diagram will work (as it has) just make sure I isolate the case from the negative output for the driver?
I get that 100%, which is why he's experiencing a 1.5A draw from the battery itself. But, if the driver only lets 750mA of that current out and into the diode, then doesn't that mean that 750mA goes into diode, 750mA exits the diode, flows down the host, through the switch and into the negative end of the battery? :thinking:
jayrob
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Like this:
Also, you cannot use a Micro Boost Drive with a red diode in a case negative set up unless you isolate the heatsink from the host. But besides that, it's a boost only driver...
Like this:
Also, you cannot use a Micro Boost Drive with a red diode in a case negative set up unless you isolate the heatsink from the host. But besides that, it's a boost only driver...
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Thanks for the heads up on the micro-boost driver. But yeah, think of the driver itself as the only load. It draws 1.5 amps though both the negative and positive inputs. The positive comes directly from the battery and the negative goes through the host and the clicky switches,
Thanks for the heads up on the micro-boost driver. But yeah, think of the driver itself as the only load. It draws 1.5 amps though both the negative and positive inputs. The positive comes directly from the battery and the negative goes through the host and the clicky switches,
jayrob
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Watch out for this with your Kryton build Dave. (if you plan on using a Micro Boost Drive) You will not want to get the negative from the diode case pin to the driver negative output like we normaly do with Kryton/FlexDrive builds...
However, you could use the diode case pin and wire it (just the case pin only) to the driver negative input... This will work! (with blu-ray/Micro Boost builds - and I'm assuming these new 445 diodes have a case pin like other diodes do)
Watch out for this with your Kryton build Dave. (if you plan on using a Micro Boost Drive) You will not want to get the negative from the diode case pin to the driver negative output like we normaly do with Kryton/FlexDrive builds...
However, you could use the diode case pin and wire it (just the case pin only) to the driver negative input... This will work! (with blu-ray/Micro Boost builds - and I'm assuming these new 445 diodes have a case pin like other diodes do)
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Cheech
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
From Uranium:
The IRF740 would work just fine for that. Remember though, mosfets will instantly burn out if they are subjected to high voltage or reverse voltage.
Myself:
A over 1 watt button can be made easily.
Maybe a machinist can adapt the size of the mosfet into a clicky switch..cough.. Rob... Or side by side with the driver... Or double sided DDL driver.
otherwise I am purchasing a lathe within in the next month.
Someone tell me if this diagram is wrong because it's 3:02 int the morning saturday, and I've already drank 3 pitchers to the head. Really no fool'n.
I have really come to enjoy this forum, and am willing to contribute my electrical an MacGuiver knowhow to further expand this hobby into...
From Uranium:
The IRF740 would work just fine for that. Remember though, mosfets will instantly burn out if they are subjected to high voltage or reverse voltage.
Myself:
A over 1 watt button can be made easily.
Maybe a machinist can adapt the size of the mosfet into a clicky switch..cough.. Rob... Or side by side with the driver... Or double sided DDL driver.
otherwise I am purchasing a lathe within in the next month.
Someone tell me if this diagram is wrong because it's 3:02 int the morning saturday, and I've already drank 3 pitchers to the head. Really no fool'n.
I have really come to enjoy this forum, and am willing to contribute my electrical an MacGuiver knowhow to further expand this hobby into...
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Cheech
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Add a rectifying diode between the battery and the mosfet.
Add a rectifying diode between the battery and the mosfet.
daguin
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Thanks, Jay. I have already been building with the boost.
The 445nm diodes have a case pin. However, the ones I have seen have the case pin clipped. There is still enough of a "stub" to solder the negative wire to though.
Not ALL of the current goes through the diode. The negative is either continuous with the case (like the flex with "jumped" case/negative pins) or the negative input is "jumped" from the negative input on the driver to the case (like the boost with the diode floating). The driver only allows the controlled amount of current through the diode, but it is allowing the full current drawn through the host and the switch. There is always the full current at the driver input side (through the host and switch) that the driver needs to produce the current and voltage needed at the driver output side.
Not all of the current goes straight through the driver into the diode and back out again. It is not a direct, isolated "pipe" into the driver then into the diode and then back out through the driver. There are "side connections" and "short cuts" on the driver through which the current needed to operate the driver and produce the voltage flows.
Look at this simple DDL linear driver
See all of those "short cuts" and "side connections"? The easiest to see and understand are the capacitor and the 1N4001 diode. Current is flowing through them as well. It is not ALL going through the diode.
Not only are there these types of "short cuts" in the boost driver, but some of the components are also taking part of the current and converting it to voltage.
The current through the switch is higher than the current going through the diode
Peace,
dave
Thanks, Jay. I have already been building with the boost.
The 445nm diodes have a case pin. However, the ones I have seen have the case pin clipped. There is still enough of a "stub" to solder the negative wire to though.
Not ALL of the current goes through the diode. The negative is either continuous with the case (like the flex with "jumped" case/negative pins) or the negative input is "jumped" from the negative input on the driver to the case (like the boost with the diode floating). The driver only allows the controlled amount of current through the diode, but it is allowing the full current drawn through the host and the switch. There is always the full current at the driver input side (through the host and switch) that the driver needs to produce the current and voltage needed at the driver output side.
Not all of the current goes straight through the driver into the diode and back out again. It is not a direct, isolated "pipe" into the driver then into the diode and then back out through the driver. There are "side connections" and "short cuts" on the driver through which the current needed to operate the driver and produce the voltage flows.
Look at this simple DDL linear driver
See all of those "short cuts" and "side connections"? The easiest to see and understand are the capacitor and the 1N4001 diode. Current is flowing through them as well. It is not ALL going through the diode.
Not only are there these types of "short cuts" in the boost driver, but some of the components are also taking part of the current and converting it to voltage.
The current through the switch is higher than the current going through the diode
Peace,
dave
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Hey MM,
This driver appears to be a similar size, and looks a bit more heavy duty. It might work for you:
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1710
Hey MM,
This driver appears to be a similar size, and looks a bit more heavy duty. It might work for you:
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1710
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Try McClicky switches. They're a bit large, and cost $10 each :wtf: from lighthound though.
http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html
Try McClicky switches. They're a bit large, and cost $10 each :wtf: from lighthound though.
http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html
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jayrob
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Just to clarify, I hope it didn't sound like I was trying to 'school you'...
It was something that I did not think about yet, and mainly wanted to explain it for others to understand. But we had mentioned your up coming Kryton build is all.
I figured for sure you've been using the Micro BoostDrive, but I remember that with Kryton builds, the driver gets soldered directly to the diode, and the way I used to build them, I'd get the negative to the FlexDrive by soldering the case pin to the negative pin.
So then I realized hey... that won't work with a Micro Boost... And in thinking about it, I realized that you could still do it if you soldered a small wire from the diode case pin, to the negative input side of the driver.
Anyway, that's just me thinking out loud because with 99% of all of my builds, I get the negative from the pill/host. So I never thought about what to do in a Kryton type build using the Micro BoostDrive (where the driver is directly soldered to the diode pins) until just then...
Just to clarify, I hope it didn't sound like I was trying to 'school you'...
It was something that I did not think about yet, and mainly wanted to explain it for others to understand. But we had mentioned your up coming Kryton build is all.
I figured for sure you've been using the Micro BoostDrive, but I remember that with Kryton builds, the driver gets soldered directly to the diode, and the way I used to build them, I'd get the negative to the FlexDrive by soldering the case pin to the negative pin.
So then I realized hey... that won't work with a Micro Boost... And in thinking about it, I realized that you could still do it if you soldered a small wire from the diode case pin, to the negative input side of the driver.
Anyway, that's just me thinking out loud because with 99% of all of my builds, I get the negative from the pill/host. So I never thought about what to do in a Kryton type build using the Micro BoostDrive (where the driver is directly soldered to the diode pins) until just then...
hakzaw1
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Re: 445nm "sled" pics
update EDIT- for just the AixiZ AR 405nm glass lens- 11$ shipped-- add a blank housing module $2.25 more.Note I cannot sell any 445nm diodes to anyone who does not own proper eye protection and does not have a good understanding of the hazards involved with these.--sorry
..............
update EDIT- for just the AixiZ AR 405nm glass lens- 11$ shipped-- add a blank housing module $2.25 more.Note I cannot sell any 445nm diodes to anyone who does not own proper eye protection and does not have a good understanding of the hazards involved with these.--sorry
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Re: 445nm "sled" pics
So who is going to be the first one to collimate all 24x of these 1W beast and make one heck of a laser? Even if we turned each one down to .5W for heat and lost a few mw from lenses I bet we could get 8W of blue : ) I know I would drop down 1.5k for such a system : )
So who is going to be the first one to collimate all 24x of these 1W beast and make one heck of a laser? Even if we turned each one down to .5W for heat and lost a few mw from lenses I bet we could get 8W of blue : ) I know I would drop down 1.5k for such a system : )
mfo
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Dang, this is going to make things a pain in the rear
I definitely can't get away with using a flexdrive using an 18650, right? Too much current for the flex to handle...
Edit:
I was looking at the flexdrive manual and looking at the formula.
(Vout (Volts) * Iout (Amps) ) / Vin (Volts) < 1.2
The only part I don't understand is the end of the formula, < 1.2
I plugged the settings I'd use for this diode into the formula, and came up with this.
(4.2) * (.750) / (4.2) =.75
So, does this mean it would work with a 4.2V Li-Ion since my answe is .74, which is less than 1.2? :thinking:
@Dave, now it makes perfect sense, I totally forgot about the shortcuts lol. Also, thanks Mario & Jay.
Double Edit:
If this is the case, then we can definitely power this thing with a decent capacity Li-Ion such as the 18650. Once it drops down to about 3 volts, that's when problems will arise I guess? What would happen? Would it just cut power to the diode? Would it kill the diode? Would the driver just generate an insane amount of heat?
Dang, this is going to make things a pain in the rear
I definitely can't get away with using a flexdrive using an 18650, right? Too much current for the flex to handle...
Edit:
I was looking at the flexdrive manual and looking at the formula.
(Vout (Volts) * Iout (Amps) ) / Vin (Volts) < 1.2
The only part I don't understand is the end of the formula, < 1.2
I plugged the settings I'd use for this diode into the formula, and came up with this.
(4.2) * (.750) / (4.2) =.75
So, does this mean it would work with a 4.2V Li-Ion since my answe is .74, which is less than 1.2? :thinking:
@Dave, now it makes perfect sense, I totally forgot about the shortcuts lol. Also, thanks Mario & Jay.
Double Edit:
If this is the case, then we can definitely power this thing with a decent capacity Li-Ion such as the 18650. Once it drops down to about 3 volts, that's when problems will arise I guess? What would happen? Would it just cut power to the diode? Would it kill the diode? Would the driver just generate an insane amount of heat?
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
Second try -----
That "DDL" driver shown above is a constant voltage regulator. There is no feedback from a low ohm resistor in the current feed to the adj input. Also, DDL did not design the "DDL" driver. The circuit was published Loooong ago by National Semicinductors.
HMike
Second try -----
That "DDL" driver shown above is a constant voltage regulator. There is no feedback from a low ohm resistor in the current feed to the adj input. Also, DDL did not design the "DDL" driver. The circuit was published Loooong ago by National Semicinductors.
HMike
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Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics
maybe?
DealExtreme: $4.30 16mm 101F Gold Plated Clicky Switch for Flashlights (10-Pack)
no specs, but at that price, it's worth a try.
maybe?
DealExtreme: $4.30 16mm 101F Gold Plated Clicky Switch for Flashlights (10-Pack)
no specs, but at that price, it's worth a try.
