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Kenometer Pro and USB screenshots and build updates

Kenom

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xStatiCa

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Yummy. More pics. Looks nice! It does look a lot better without the knob.

Will there be a grommet or something to protect the thermopile wires where they go into the meter? I am sure you already thought of that but figured I would mention it anyway since it immediately stuck out as something that could cause the wires to get chaffed.

EDIT. Hey... you covered up your secret formulas this time :). I assume the answer was 47 though.
 

Kenom

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hahah.. you mean my math homework! I needed a fresh page, the equation was getting outta hand.

Actually addressing the thermopile issue. I've planned on having a simple mini-din connector in the housing. Ya know like your old school mouse and keyboard ps2 connections. The wire will then have the male equivalent and will easily unplug from the base unit.
 

Trevor

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The latest version of the graphing software I'm developing for it:



-Trevor
 

Traveller

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Hi & congratulations the the three of you, I'm sure the LPMs will be a great success :beer:

The Pro enclosure's looking great! I'm not sure however what the USB one looks like... :-? Furthermore, I've been trying to figure out what kind of heads you will be using for both versions (USB & Pro) and the only pics of a probe I've seen so far look like Ken's using a Coherent head... (see below) :confused:



The new heads are much less prone to thermal drifting like the older Coherent ones that were used in the original Kenometers...
 

MarioMaster

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The pics show the new thermopiles, they are smaller but still offer a larger surface than any of the currently available hobbyist meters. I have a comparison shot here somewhere.... found it
 

roosl

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Hey, I have a question. What prevents a high powered unit from (eventually) burning [a hole in] the sensor? Since it appears to be flat black..

Thanks,
 

Traveller

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The pics show the new thermopiles, they are smaller but still offer a larger surface than any of the currently available hobbyist meters.
Oh, my bad, for a sec I thought it was a Coherent - but didn't bother to note the difference in # of screws, etc. :eek:

Thanks to your pic, the difference is clear! Who makes them, btw?
 

lasersbee

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The pics show the new thermopiles, they are smaller but still offer a larger surface than any of the currently available hobbyist meters.
What other Hobbyist Meters are available besides the Laserbee Products... :thinking:

Jerry
 

MarioMaster

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Hey, I have a question. What prevents a high powered unit from (eventually) burning [a hole in] the sensor? Since it appears to be flat black..

Thanks,
The coating is designed for high temperature operation - unless you purposely focus a laser of several watts or more to a pinpoint on the sensor, it will not be burned. You should also avoid using high energy pulsed lasers for obvious reasons.

What other Hobbyist Meters are available besides the Laserbee Products... :thinking:

Jerry
:whistle:


Oh, my bad, for a sec I thought it was a Coherent - but didn't bother to note the difference in # of screws, etc. :eek:

Thanks to your pic, the difference is clear! Who makes them, btw?
I'm not currently authorized by the Kenomeister to release that information :shhh:
 

Kenom

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Information on the thermopile will be released very soon. Have patience. The major difference of a thermopile and anything else I've seen is a thermopile sensor is like 300 grit sand paper with particulates actually inside the coating. I think this acts to distribute the heat more evenly through the layer into the thermocouple behind it. By distributing the heat away from the surface, it prevents it from burning the sensor. Now, that being said, you CAN burn teh sensor. If the sensor is rated for 1W and you hit it with a focused concentrated beam of 1W you will start cooking the coating. Especially if you've touched it and added oils or whatever to teh coating.
 

lasersbee

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IIRC...
What is important to remember with any Thermopile sensor is to
not go over the Thermopile's max rating which is normally stated as
Watts/sq. CM... (Example 20W/sq. CM)
That means if your Laser beam has a cross section of 1 sq. CM you can
shine a 20 Watt laser on the Sensor's surface... but if your Laser beam
has a cross section of 1 sq. mm then your Laser can only be a Maximum
of 20,000/100 = 200mW...

Correct me if I'm wrong...

Jerry
 

Traveller

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I'm not currently authorized by the Kenomeister to release that information :shhh:
lol, no problem! The reason behind my curiosity is that it looks a lot like a coherent, so I was thinking maybe one of Coherent's designers is involved here... .

If it quacks like a duck... ;)
 

Asherz

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The meter looks great so far, the only small thing I would add as a finishing touch which always adds that little bit extra is cable sleeving any exterior cables.

Sleeving Kits | murderMod



that site offers high quality sleeving kits for computers, so something similar could really add a nice little extra to the finished product, plus add a little protection to the wires.
 




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