FS: >110mW PHR, >140mW 4x & >170mW 6x Blu-Rays

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

Franco: I am happy to report, that i revived the laser you got from Jake! (EDIT: for the unenlightened - it is about an inferior copy of Jayrob's design, NOT Jayrob's work!)


It was NOT the diode that gave up! It was the "craftsmanship"... (And i use that term looselly in this case. And i've seen worse!)



After i finally figured out how to break the seal of super-glue (superglue?!? :thinking without breaking appart everything else, i immediatelly spotted the problem. It was lack of any and all soldering skillz.

After i undid the problem, your lazor suddenly lit up! The diode was clearly alive and well, but...


There was this horrible disfigurement in the middle of the uncollimated output. Some crap got baked onto the diode window by the time i figured out what was going on. This is because it was shipped to me without any lens in it. (See, people, THIS is why i say NEVER REMOVE THE FREAKING LENS!!!! (And ALWAYS USE THE FREAKING LENS CAPS!!!!))



Unfortunatelly even submerging the diode completelly in analysis grade acetone, did not help a tiny bit to remove the baked-on crap. I have no idea what it was... :undecided:

I was about to give up, but i decided to give it one more try. I used a METAL tool to scrape the crap off of the diode window! I thought it couldn't possibly be worse than it already was, even if i broke the window. So i scraped away! And it took A LOT of scraping!!!! :wtf:



KIDS! DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! YOU WILL SCRATCH THE WINDOW, OR BREAK IT, OR RUIN THE DIODE SOME OTHER WAY!

The stunt was performed by a trained professional, and he almost shit his pants! :yabbem:



In fact, i am shocked, surprised and amazed, that i did not ruin it completelly myself!
Somehow the coating on the window decided to be harder than the steel tool i used, and to survive my scraping attempts unharmed!
The glue holding the window was luckily stronger than the pressure i used.



This is completelly unreal, and i'm still not sure that i'm not dreaming.

A few more acetone washes later, the window was almost as good as new, with barelly any particles remaining. Not completelly up to my standards, but compared to a non working lazor... Almost beautiful.....

....If it wasn't for all the other flaws.. But at least it works now. And at original power at that!



There are several modifications i would like to do before returning it to you tho:
- I have to cut the mini-heatsink shorter. It's too long, and puts the module in too deep into the lazor. Focusing barelly works for this reason.
- I have to remove all superglue remains, and replace it with thermal epoxy. That way there will actually be some heatsinking going on.
- I have to add polarity protection. Something that will destroy the battery instead of the lazor, if the battery was reversed by accident (batteries are cheap)... At the moment, there is no polarity protection whatsoever.
- I have to clean the window some more, so it's spotless. Maybe it's possible. I don't want to scrape anymore tho. :crackup:


After that i can ship it back to you. It'll be better than new when it's finally done.




But seriously... Superglue?!? :wtf:

 

[Elektrotechniker]

IgorT, what power is the 6x laser you use in that video to burn matches and pop balloons?

 

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

Silvershot: That video was not made by me, but by FrancoG..

He was using my personal super-freak 6x laser with the medium custom lens. He had it for a short review, by now the laser is back with me.


The power of the laser is 265mW after the medium glass lens.

 

[Darkarmyofone]

Excellent upgrade IgorT, Very high quality! Wish I had one of these hosts for myself ^_^

 

[FrancoRob]

Igor:

WOW!! For me my Micro chrome BR was end'ed, this is why I sent it to you without the original Aixiz lens nut (closed back)... sorry to have given you such a big additional work!:yabbem:

Ok for all the modification.... (wow again), so I'll have a 6x returned to life too.... thank you a lot for this!!:angel:

Silvershot:

For the balloons popping test, I focused the laser to the entrance door wall (well beyond the farthest balloon). So the first quite immediate "pop" got me unexpectedly, my little "jump" is clearly visible...:scared:

 

[Elektrotechniker]

Silvershot:

For the balloons popping test, I focused the laser to the entrance door wall (well beyond the farthest balloon). So the first quite immediate "pop" got me unexpectedly, my little "jump" is clearly visible...:scared:

i see what you did there

 

[scopeguy20]

um...nope, it's true, 15feet takes 1seconds,

but after 20feet, would takes much longer time,
i think the reason is - very difficult to focus, the laser line is likely becomes parallel at 20+.


(i tried to focus for at least 20min, the nut is very sensitive when the line nearing parallel,
but I also discovered that the lower power, the easier to control [for Aixizs' only]
the 120mW is easier to control, i don't know the reason,
what would you recommend for me to focus the high power one easier?)

I find it much easier to focus with Blu-ray blocking goggles. They also will reveal the more subtle fluorescent glow often hidden by the Blu-ray lasers glare. these are only $10 a pair, (before costs of shipping and Paypal fee) I'll post a link: http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/yellow-goggles-blu-ray-blocking-43262.html -Glenn

 

[LarryDFW]

Oh, one more thing, this is important for anyone who has a v3 HS/M laser, or is interested in a v3 Heatsink/Module...

While designing the v3's, i asked my manufacturer, to make them fit plastic and metal AixiZ lens nuts nicelly. They thought they wobbled too much in AixiZ modules, so they made the threads "tighter"...

As a result, AixiZ lens nuts (metal or plastic) wobble MUCH less in the v3 Heatsink/Modules compared to AixiZ modules...

The 405-G lens from Jayrob fits into my v3, because he used the metal AixiZ lens nut. It might go in a bit harder at first, due to minimal "damage" to the threads of the lens-nut that occurs during machining (from the grip of the tool on the lens nut - altho in the future this might not be the case anymore), but after a little focusing, the threads adjust to each other.


But Larry's new "no-spring lens" DOES NOT fit into my v3 HS/M lasers or v3 Heatsink/Modules themselves. FrancoG just told me this a couple of days ago.

The reason for this is, that when trying to make the lens wobble less in AixiZ modules, they designed the lens-nut with wider threads, to fit the AixiZ modules better.

So what happens is, my v3's have tighter threads, Larry's lens has wider threads, and they simply won't go together, as Franco discovered....

Hi Igor;

FrancoG informed me about the thread incompatibility.

The threads on my lens assembly ARE 9mm x 0.5mm.

Any female thread of that exact size should be compatible with my lens assembly (although some might be snug).

If anybody is having a problem with the threads, a tap can be used in the V3 heatsink to insure compatibility.

I will offer to loan the correct metric tap
for any lens assembly customer that is having difficulty.

LarryDFW

 

[jayrob]

Franco: I am happy to report, that i revived your "Pocket-Mini" rip-off lazor wanna-be!

It was NOT the diode that gave up! It was the "craftsmanship"... (And i use that term looselly in this case. And i've seen worse!)

Igor, just to clarify something here. Since you are using the term 'Pocket Mini'...

This was not one of my builds!!!

This was a Micro chrome host that jake21 'copied' from my thread on my Micro chrome build. He obviously did not make his module sleeve the correct length and so forth.

Just don't want others to think that I had anything to do with that 'crap' build...
Jay

 

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

Yes, people, DEFINITELLY get goggles for burning!
The long lasting afterimages you get otherwise are not good for you!


Also you will finally be able to see, when the tiny spot is the tinyest. That's the real secret to burning....

When it comes to long distance burning you need someone else, a friend to turn the lens for you while you're checking the spot, or someone else to tell you when the spot is the smallest (if they are capable of either).

That, or a lot of walking back and forth, till you get it.. :yh:



The yellow goggles in Scopeguy's link are PERFECT for 405nm protection! And they are cheap, a lot cheaper than professional laser goggles.

But don't think they are unsafe because of that! Quite the opposite is true. It's quite simple really:
Even if you suffer a direct hit, it's better for that direct hit to be 1-2mW than the full ~200mW most of your lasers are putting out currently.

1-2mW won't do anything bad to your eyes, a minimum afterimage at worst.
200mW on the other hand is a whole different thing. There you can be sure you did some permanent damage to your retina.


But when it's about the reflections you suffer while burning, these goggles will protect you 100%!




I've done multiple experiments with different types of goggles and high power blu-rays, and i found yellow goggles to work best.

They obstruct your vision the least, allowing you to see almost everything, except the dangerous 405nm light. You can even see most fluorescences..



If you REALLY can not afford $10 USD for protection from a $200+ laser (umm :thinking then AT LEAST use your regular sunglasses PLEASE!


I've tested several different sunglasses, and they do OK, when it comes to protection from 405nm, but yellow goggles are the best.




P.S. One more thing. Guess what i use to separate diodes by wavelength?
During my tests of different goggles, i stumbled onto one pair of yellow "sunglasses", which had two completelly different filters for left and right eye, altho i haven't noticed this until that moment!

- One of the two would block ALL 405nm light (COMPLETELLY, REGARDLESS OF POWER), letting through only spontaneous emissions coming from the diode. (i use this as a secondary health check, gathering the data for statistics)
- The other side would block MOST but not all of 405nm light, passing through just a little bit, the perfect amount to separate the diodes by wavelength! If i shine two laser beams through this other one side by side, onto a piece of paper, the spot that looks brighter has a higher wavelength, regardless of power! Even a 100mW and 200mW beam side by side, the one with the higher wavelength will look brighter on the paper after this filter!


I was really lucky with these random goggles, that gave me these two filters!


I have them mounted on a stand above a piece of paper, next to the Diode Analyzer, and after i plot each diode, i shine it through the first filter to check for amount of spontaneous emissions, and then the second one, side by side with a "wavelength reference laser" (my personal 6x is the high wavelength reference, a low wavelength 6x i found is the low wavelength reference), to write down the wavelength remark (where between the two references it is visually).


Due to how well this second filter works, i am able to separate diodes visually with great precision! Especially since power doesn't matter nearly as much as wavelength with this filter!

For example, i was once asked to create a super-low wavelength laser, for special purposes. Using my methods i found a 6x diode that put out <400nm (later measured by this buyer)! This diode had a VERY high efficiency even after a plastic lens, which means a lot more power was getting wasted in the lens than with any other diode - the power behind the lens was much higher, since the power after the lens was the same. So much higher, that it began eating away at the lens very quickly.....

When someone asks for a high wavelength, i often find wavelengths of ~410nm, in VERY rare cases sometimes as high as 415nm (= my high wavelength reference)...



And the beams coming from the high wavelength lasers look noticably brighter in the dark, altho if you compare them visually very carefully, you notice, that it's the color that is different.

But due to the sensitivity of our eyes climbing rapidly as the wavelength increases, the high wavelength lasers i make are mostly quite a bit "brighter"-looking than the average diode.



If you have another Blu-Ray and yellow filter goggles from Scopeguy's link, you can probably use them to compare wavelengths. I have not tested these specific goggles, so i can't say if they would eliminate the power difference completelly, but if two lasers have at least a similar power (170 & 210mW is already similar enough in most cases - but it depends on the filter), you might just be able to tell which one has a higher wavelength using these goggles....

You should also be able to confirm this later by observing the two beams side by side carefully, in some smoke or fog. One of the two will seem darker looking, even tho not necessarily less visible.


Hmm, it's hard to explain. I must have looked at beams from 150 different Blu-Ray lasers by now, comparing them to my reference lasers....

But try it and you'll see what i mean.

 

[FrancoRob]

Igor, just to clarify something here. Since you are using the term 'Pocket Mini'...

This was not one of my builds!!!

This was a Micro chrome host that jake21 'copied' from my thread on my Micro chrome build. He obviously did not make his module sleeve the correct length and so forth.

Just don't want others to think that I had anything to do with that 'crap' build...
Jay

Update:
Hi Jay, I confirm officially here that the Micro chrome I sent to Igor has been made by Jake21. After the famous debate about the doubtful use of one of your 405-G-1 lens, I spoke so many times about this Jake21 laser (with Igor too), that I forgot that someone cannot be aware of this fact. This just for justice.

For all guys willing to "dig" a little bit in the past, pls go to the following link:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs-225mw-br-laser-sold-22726.html

Here you will find Jake21 offer relevant to the "new mini br laser". This is the laser I got from him, the laser I sent to Igor.

 

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

Igor, just to clarify something here. Since you are using the term 'Pocket Mini'...

This was not one of my builds!!!

This was a Micro chrome host that jake21 'copied' from my thread on my Micro chrome build. He obviously did not make his module sleeve the correct length and so forth.

Just don't want others to think that I had anything to do with that 'crap' build...
Jay

Oh shit, this little disaster-build had absolutelly NOTHING to do with Jayrob! It was not even his kit!!!


EDIT: I was just so used to Franco always calling it that, that i started believing it's a copy of that particular kit. But it seems we mixed that up. I also thought i made it clear, that i'm talking about a rip-off of your work, an inferior copy, but after reviewing my words, i think they could be misunderstood. I apologize. I edited and removed all references to your kits.



If it was made out of parts from Jayrob, following his tutorial correctly, then it would at least fit together perfectly!

But it would still have died, due to crappy soldering by the builder... The quality of Jay's kits unfortunatelly can not prevent mistakes from crappy builders.



Otherwise, i have in the past even defended Jake a little, but seeing how he rips off every idea he stumbles upon, i can't continue doing so.

If he uses other people's ideas, he could at least have the decency to buy kits from those people. Then it would not be a rip-off!



Jay: Sorry, i thought i made it clear that the thing was not made by you. I'll edit my post to make it double clear!

I mean, originally i THOUGHT it was made from your kit, but only until the moment i looked at it for the very first time. After later taking it appart, i knew 100% for sure, that no-one could screw up a kit made by you so badly!


I mean, the freaking sleeve is too long! WTF?!?
He machines them (or his friend does), why not machine them to the correct length?!?

I will now have to use a diamond cutting tool to cut off the excess, with the sleve already glued onto the AixiZ module, and without damaging the diode! I'll put an old plastic lens in to protect the diode while i'm doing this.


I just hope Jake used thermal epoxy to glue the sleve onto the AixiZ and not CyanoAcrylate (superglue) like he did to glue the module to the driver compartment... :tsk:

Since the driver compartment is aluminum and screws directly into the host, the module SHOULD be fixed to it with thermal epoxy, because the threads have a large surface area contact to the host! That is something that should be USED for heatsinking, and not just skipped! Surface area contact is extremelly important when it comes to thermal transfer! I'll even put some thermal paste on the threads, when i'm done with this, to increase the secondary heatsinking done by the host!

As a result, the laser will get warmer on the outside, but that is good, because it means it is not allowing the heat to be captured INSIDE!





This is not the first time i have to remove huge loads of super-glue from a laser built by another "builder" so that i could "repair it" (= rebuild from scratch in most cases)..

There have been far worse examples of "craftsmanship" than this... This one would actually work somewhat. If the builder would know how to solder that is....

 

[jayrob]

Igor:

WOW!! For me my Pocket Mini was end'ed, this is why I sent it to you without the original Aixiz lens nut (closed back)... sorry to have given you such a big additional work!:yabbem:

Ok for all the modification.... (wow again), so I'll have a 6x returned to life too.... thank you a lot for this!!:angel:

Silvershot:

For the balloons popping test, I focused the laser to the entrance door wall (well beyond the farthest balloon). So the first quite immediate "pop" got me unexpectedly, my little "jump" is clearly visible...:scared:

FrancoRob, IgorT,

Please edit the term 'Pocket Mini' for that crap build. It is not even a Pocket Mini host...

It is a bad 'copy' of my Micro Chrome build shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22692

I remember when jake21 first got a lathe and he asked me a ton of questions and so forth... Then he tried to copy my Micro Chrome build, and my 405-G-1 lens as well. That's where the host that FrancoRob sent you came from...

Not me. Not Pocket Mini!


Pocket mini host is this:

The 'rip off copy' host that FrancoRob sent you is this: (Micro Chrome)

NOT Pocket Mini...



Edit: Ok... thanks for clarifying that Igor, and FrancoRob. But I wish you would edit the use of the term 'Pocket Mini'. It's just that readers would see the term 'Pocket Mini' and associate it with me. Besides it is not a Pocket Mini copy. It is a Micro Chrome copy...

 

[Tech_Junkie]

Hey Gaz!

So did you get it? I haven't heard back from you yet, so i wasn't sure. Or did i miss an email?

Yeah I emailed you on Saturday, you must of missed it....

 

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

The threads on my lens assembly ARE 9mm x 0.5mm.

Any female thread of that exact size should be compatible with my lens assembly (although some might be snug).

I'm sure they are 9mm x 0.5, as are the threads in my v3 heatsink module.

But the CNC manufacturers have adjustable tools for cutting threads. They don't use standardised taps. They can adjust the width between the threads as they see fit!

That's how they were able to adjust your threads to fit AixiZ modules better, and my threads to fit AixiZ lenses better...


But as a result, my v3 modules are completelly incompatible with your lenses. The threads simply don't overlap..

If anybody is having a problem with the threads, a tap can be used in the V3 heatsink to insure compatibility.

I will offer to loan the correct metric tap
for any lens assembly customer that is having difficulty.

LarryDFW

I am OK with people doing this to a heatsink they get from me, but i am DEFINITELLY NOT OK with people doing this to a laser i built for them.

At least not if they want to retain any kind of warranty!


Please keep in mind, that most of these lasers have inside a specially selected pre-tested high efficiency and/or high wavelength GGW diode worth A LOT more than the lens costs!

The high efficiency freak diodes are so rare, that i haven't even figured out how much they actually cost me yet, since it takes discarding a whole bunch of weaker diodes to find the few special ones. Not to mention the amount of time it takes me to pre-test and find them, which is also not free.

Anyone using a tap on a fully assembled laser would be crazy!
But i don't think you were suggesting that anyway. I just had to point it out, just in case....



I could easily have another batch of v3's made with threads exactly copied from AixiZ modules, if there was enough interest in that combination (= MIN 50 pcs.)..

But for my lasers i have to go with something that will reduce the wobble with MOST lenses... This is purelly out of practical reasons.


I wish AixiZ didn't make such a crappy match between their modules and lenses, then we wouldn't have this problem now....


But the problem is here, and people with v3 lasers have to know that they won't be able to get your latest lens in...


If they wanted to, it would be ideal, if I had the required tap, in order to adjust the modules for the buyers, who plan to use your lens...

I would also have to test if this double-tapping doesn't ruin the existing threads, by cutting completelly different ones on top.
Maybe you should loan a tool to me first, so i can try it out, if this is important to you?



But AGAIN: tapping the lasers after they are made would not work out.. It's too dangerous. Even if the tap had a diode hole in the top, the resulting aluminum shreads don't belong on the diode window....

 

[IgorT]

FS: >130mW PHR & 185-215mW 6x Blu-Rays, >300mW BR lasers in prototyping stage!

Igor:

WOW!! For me my Pocket Mini was end'ed, this is why I sent it to you without the original Aixiz lens nut (closed back)... sorry to have given you such a big additional work!:yabbem:

Ok for all the modification.... (wow again), so I'll have a 6x returned to life too.... thank you a lot for this!!:angel:

Don't worry about it Franco, i'm still in your debt even so.

I'm just happy about the fact i was able to save the diode (and shocked as to HOW), because it means it might just really be a good one that will last!

I hope the contact was interrupted and stayed interrupted until i found it, otherwise, there could have been some cap-zapping going on, and that would have been a bad thing.


Did it ever drop on the floor? I'm surprised at the fact, that it stopped working while it was perfectly still on your measuring setup!