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FrozenGate by Avery

eBay 5mW 473nm hmm.. $75?






Add a few drops of diy fog, and you get a very lovely blue beam, but as MM said, divergence is b-a-d

Although these look most valuable to wavelength collectors, it could be used in a small lumia unit :san:

Peace,
dave
 
Yup, but after the correcting lenses it's about 10-15mW with a messy beam. It's worth it if you really love collecting wavelengths.

-Tony

People are too negative about these. heh. After modding mine, I got 30mW AFTER the corrective optics, and USING the optical feedback. Heh. Takes maybe 30 seconds to get up to 30mW, but after it gets there, it's solid as a rock.. I've even watched it on the lpm for HOURS.. 30mW.. It's the beauty of optical feedback.

So as I said in the other thread dealing with these. I ended up with stable 30mW of 473nm with a divergence of 1.02mRad after my optics for $87. I'm actually thinking about getting another one. heh.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f40/b-w-tek-bwb-10-oem-473nm-10mw-53423-2.html#post859611
 
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Have u had any experience with yours shocking the shit out of you when you flip the power switch off? Just happened to mr. Do I need to ground the darn white grnd wire to something not to get shocked? It just happened a couple times after playing with it for a few days
 
The customs here apply taxes to big things like that. Sucks :(

@qumefox
What lenses you used? :)
 
hmm no mine's never shocked me. You should definitely check the wiring, and also, your house wiring as well. You could have a hot/neutral reversed.

The lenses I used were an expansion lens scavenged from an old dead 532, and a standard aixiz acrylic lens.
 
Have u had any experience with yours shocking the shit out of you when you flip the power switch off? Just happened to mr. Do I need to ground the darn white grnd wire to something not to get shocked? It just happened a couple times after playing with it for a few days

hmm no mine's never shocked me. You should definitely check the wiring, and also, your house wiring as well. You could have a hot/neutral reversed.

The lenses I used were an expansion lens scavenged from an old dead 532, and a standard aixiz acrylic lens.

I got mine today. It is doing ~7mW out of the box.

@ Jake -- You might simply go through and "clean up" all of the "extra" wiring. On mine, there are, most definitely, some hot wires that are just cut off with some electrical tape applied to the end. Something might be exposed on your unit.

@ qumefox -- You wanna loan a brutha your "harness"? Without taking it apart, it looks like there are four different places that the driver halves connect. <sheesh>

Peace,
dave
 
But I'm getting shocked from the on off switch and I'm not around any exposed wires, I solely have the power switch I'n my hand and flip it, and get a little jolt, but I will see what I can figure out
 
But I'm getting shocked from the on off switch and I'm not around any exposed wires, I solely have the power switch I'n my hand and flip it, and get a little jolt, but I will see what I can figure out

Don't touch the rear contacts when you flip it? It's not insulated very well and touching the metal in the back when you turn it off you will get shocked. When I flip the switch I make sure to grab the plastic sides and not the back.
 
But I'm getting shocked from the on off switch and I'm not around any exposed wires, I solely have the power switch I'n my hand and flip it, and get a little jolt, but I will see what I can figure out

Don't touch the rear contacts when you flip it? It's not insulated very well and touching the metal in the back when you turn it off you will get shocked. When I flip the switch I make sure to grab the plastic sides and not the back.

Yeah. Mine had some exposure there as well. This is not a problem when it is in a "box." However, when you are holding it in your hand . . . .

Wrap the rear part of the switch with some electrical tape.

It probably also has some of this type of exposure at the rear of the mains socket.

Peace,
dave
 
yeah i fixed it, the problem was one of the connectors into the switch was exposed on the back, sitting right up against my finger and jolting me when i would flip the switch as it were
 
@ qumefox -- You wanna loan a brutha your "harness"? Without taking it apart, it looks like there are four different places that the driver halves connect. <sheesh>

Peace,
dave

I don't think loaning would be necessary. My super high tech solution shouldn't be hard to duplicate. heh.

IMG_0079.JPG


Just some cdrom audio cables cut in half. For a one shot thing, I didn't really see a need to make it more complicated than that.
 
well i got mine tonight. i am in canada. total with shipping came to $115 CAD with no duty or taxes payable.

I did the pot tweek. actually i messed with all the pots, adjusting to see what affected what. basically only the middle two pots seemed to do anything. after some tweeking and warming it up to stable, i am getting 34mw average, 40mw peak on my Kenometer Pro.

Pretty great for $115. what a nice shade of blue! much more visible than 445.

Next is to work on some collimating optics. the beam waist at the aperture is very very thin! thinnest i have ever seen actually. also there is an integrated BK38 (or some kind of BK) IR filter so those outputs are IR filtered too.
 
Maybe i'm just weird but I don't think i'll ever understand why people always instantly dump the optical feedback on these. Sure I can squeeze about another 10-15 mW out of mine without it.. but not reliably. I'm personally much happier with 30mW of stable TEM00 473 than I am with peaky unstable modehopping output it has with no feedback. Sure it can hit higher powers... temporarily.. but what good is it?
 
as soon as you guys said leave the feedback on, I did haha.
I just don't think i can rig up a harness to adjust the pots with the thing on.

What do the other pots control? If i tweak the wrong ones will I F my laser up?
 


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