Aixiz 50mW ( AT 164mW !!!! )

[ElektroFreak]

Any pics? Two pot adjustments sounds like TEC cooling to me.. It could be a modulation adjustment, though. Chuck has been known to substitute.

 

[john_lawson]

ok electro hows this man i hate this new system io hate trying to put in a pic lol

 

[BrewCityMusic]

Looks like a TTL adjustment to me too, although the driver boards look very similar, none of mine have 2 pots, weird. I'm leaning away from a TEC adjustment simply because there isn't an output for the signal/power on the board anywhere...

I'm assuming the one that worked for the output was the one marked #1 on your board, right?

 

[john_lawson]

Dale thats what i thought it would be too, but vr1 did nothing vr2 controlled the power overall i'm happy and love it i hope Coldstl likes his coldstl where are you lol
come by and pick up your labby

 

[HIMNL9]

Can you see where this vr1 is connected ? ..... looking the tracks, i mean .....

can be a ramp regulation for a soft-start ? ..... or some sort of overtemp / overload protection ?

Just wondering, cause i don't see a TEC connector on the psu board, at least from that pic.

Can be helpful if you can track down the schematic of that section, or look how is connected to the rest.

 

[ElektroFreak]

Deifintely not a TEC.. I'd say most likely it's a modulation level control, but it could be something like what HIMNL9 describes. I'm really not 100% sure looking at that photo, since I can't see the traces.

 

[ColdStl]

Picked mine up from John, and I love it. I found out the hard way that I shouldn't touch the bottom of the driver when it is plugged in...got a nice little shock.
Would securing a mica plate on the bottom be a bad idea? I don't want to trap any heat, but I'd like to make sure I don't have any shorting problems.

 

[sk8er4514]

ok electro hows this man i hate this new system io hate trying to put in a pic lol

thanks for that pic John. I just bought a very similar labby from o-like and wasn't sure which wire is for TTL and which is for power, I can see that the left one is TTL and right is power from this pic though

thanks,
Kendall

 

[HIMNL9]

You can use mica, if it's a foil hard enough to not break when you move the psu ..... or also one of those plastic foils that sometimes you find inside broken pc psu, under the circuit (it's high density plastic for insulation), and glue it on the back with some points of silicone (no thermal glue, and preferably no "bostik" style glues, that uses flammable solvents) ..... a point in each corners and one in the middle can be enough.

And for the heat exchange, i suggest you to just put some spacers under the pcb, for keep it 5mm over the mica / plastic plate, in waiting for the silicone to be hardened, and remove them just when it's hard ..... this way, when it's hard, your pcb remain lifted from the plate, granting air circulation, and still insulated.

This, ofcourse, if you don't prefer put all in a plastic box with air holes and a little fan ..... remember that not only the back of the circuit is powered, when it's plugged in

 

[el-taco]

Can anyone provide me with an email to contact chuck at?

Thinking of buying one but i got stuff to ask first

 

[HIMNL9]

^ you have a PM

 

[el-taco]

thanks mate

 

[BrewCityMusic]

Coldstl - cmon, man, that's a little more than a "little" shock (trust me, I know ... Sheeeesh!)

Here's a pic of how I mounted one of mine, using both tips above (the nylon spacers and the plastic shield from inside an old cordless phone) ... for safety, while I was moving, aligning, etc I made a simple shield for the bottom out of electrical tape which saved me a few "zaps" in the short term.

 

[ColdStl]

@HIMNL9- Thanks for the advice and suggestions.
@BCM- Lol, yeah ok. It was a bit more than a little shock, but not too bad. I like the way you mounted your unit, thanks for posting that pic. I think I'm gonna do something similar and save myself from future "zaps".