I was thinking about using my favorite MX-900 housing with a 2 inch by 2 inch bar stock add on heat sink and a couple aluminum plates 3/8 inch thick bottom and 1/4 inch thick top about 2.0 - 2.5 inches long.
I will cut out some of that thin silicon rubber transistor insulator material for the top and bottom of the lens and sandwich them between the plates, I will cut and drill 8 - 10mm bar stock to use as standoffs the height of the lenses plus a fraction so only the rubber gets compressed so I can pinch the lenses in place without crushing them and still have unlimited adjustability as per their positions.
Then I can use a 2 inch wide hollow inner diameter aluminum pipe stock piece to enclose it and cut a front plate with exit hole.
All material can be purchased from ebay pretty cheap and work done with basic home workshop tools.
Or you could mount a slotted metal tube or PVC with the lens mounted in disc that will slide, 4 slots in tube, 4 screw points per disc @ 3, 6, 9, and 12 O clock
The tube attaches to the host by way or a thick face ring that the module comes through, copper or aluminum.
I think I am going to go with option #2 but the lens will need to be mounted level and the module level as well, but the slots can have a little side to side play to compensate, could even use washers on the outside and do a real caveman job, but I'm not building a piano, I just want solid results. Someone with a mill could do a 1st class job.
Even easier and stronger is use a Mx-900 with a budget beams heat sink and attach a bar stock piece 1.5 x 1.5 then use a 1.5 inner diameter tube to slip over that's first slotted, then 1.5 inch wide disc to mount lens.
Or just any 1.5 inch host then slip over a 1.5 inner diameter tube that you slot and use 1.5 inch disc to mount lenses.
After these beam shapers a beam expander or telescope set, who knows, I'm still not 100% if we are bringing in the highly divergent axis or expanding the less divergent axis to square things up, one way will work better as is the other needs a telescope set. Either way I think the slide over tube is the best way, then the end could fit a BE or additional lenses.
I may drill and tap my working unit and use 4 threaded rods and disc mount the cylindrical pair, I can use nuts to set the disc and see what we are working with. One way or another it will be done