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FrozenGate by Avery

Wire Glue? Any one ever tried it.

L

lightfoot500

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Joined
Nov 27, 2008
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hi,
came upon this product the other day on the web.
since i havent soldered much, i thought this might be an option for me.
called wire glue, it is a conductive glue meant to be used in place of soldering.
so you can cold-solder a connection with this stuff.
i dont know if it is available at radio shack or walmart, so far i have just seen it
for sale online.
so does anyone know if it would be viable for diodes, drivers, etc?
just google "wire glue" to read more about it.
thanks
 





That is kind of like using an easy-bake oven to cook a pot-pie.

It is weaker, more costly, and less conductive than solder. It will also have a MUCH longer 'dry time.' Soldering is a good skill to have, so you might as well learn :)
 
Soldering > glue

Those glues wont ever be as good as a proper solder joint. Just as Cyparagon said, you will
have to wait for it to dry (can be several hours) plus, the joint will be prone to cracking and failing.
A weak or unconsistent joint for powering laser diodes is a recipe for disaster
 
Just solder it....:rolleyes:
There's no magic involved, and it becomes easier with practice, too.;)
 
Here is a Great video on How to solder Correctly and answer most basic questions.:)

 
You'd be better off soldering, but if you're still afraid of soldering directly to the diode, you can also use breakaway headers as a socket, and do your soldering on the headers themselves.
 
These instructions can be easily adapted to the wire-to-driver joints as well



Soldering diode pins takes a fraction of a second

Pre-tin BOTH the pins and the wire or solder pads

Use a small bit of flux on BOTH the pins and the wires/pads BOTH for the pre-tin and the final solder joint

I don't care if you use rosin core solder. USE THE FLUX!

Use a set of "extra hands" to align the pin with the wire/pad.

Make sure that they are side-by-side, touching, and secure

Get a small bit of solder on the tip of your soldering iron

"Touch" the melted solder on your iron to the pin to wire/pad joint

The solder will all flow together in a fraction of a second.

I recommend that you also use some shrink tubing to protect and reinforce the joint



You DO NOT "heat the joint" as with other solder jobs
You DO NOT place the solder source anywhere near the solder job

Only the melted solder on the tip of your iron should approach the pin to wire/pad joint

Get yourself an old PCB and some scrap wire (etc.). Practice the above procedure until you can get a good solder in a fraction of a second.

ONLY then should you move on to your first (cheap) diodes to practice with

Peace,
dave
 
Thanks Daguin,
what wattage do you use on your iron?
how do you "pre-tin" a wire or diode?
i saw in the video where the guy pre tins his iron by just putting some solder on a clean tip.. so are you saying just heat the wire or diode pin a little and touch a little solder to it?

actually, what i should do is practice this technique with some old boards...
 
Last edited:
lightfoot500 said:
Thanks Daguin,
what wattage do you use on your iron?
how do you "pre-tin" a wire or diode?
i saw in the video where the guy pre tins his iron by just putting some solder on a clean tip.. so are you saying just heat the wire or diode pin a little and touch a little solder to it?

actually, what i should do is practice this technique with some old boards...
Click to expand...

I use an ESD draining soldering station. With the solder I am using I set the iron to 350f.

However, you do not need to be fancy. I survived for a couple of years with a little 12W (ratshack) iron with small tips. Keep your tip clean and replace it when it starts to corrode. A small, clean tip will eliminate many problems in the soldering process.

Soldering electronic parts, especially small parts, is different than soldering onto a board. Do NOT heat the wire or pin.

To "pre-tin" simply get a bit of flux on the pin or wire, get some solder on your iron tip, and touch the pin or wire with the melted solder. That will deposit a small amount of solder onto the pin or wire. Once again, your solder source should not approach the pin or wire. It is this "pre-tinned" solder that allows the new solder to flow quickly and smoothly when you make the connection using the technique explained above.

Peace,
dave
 
Anyone ever tried this to make a DIY PCB? Or would the current be too much and oxidise the carbon tubes?
 
What material are the pill and the sink ? I presume the pill is aluminium.
 
If they are hold together in the host, it makes automatically electrical contact. You need really glue them together ?
 
Blord said:
If they are hold together in the host, it makes automatically electrical contact. You need really glue them together ?
Click to expand...

Thats the problem. The pill is not held by the host if the wires are not solderes to the diode the pill would drop back to the tailcap.
 
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