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FrozenGate by Avery

What on earth could be wrong?

try the direct driver hook up and see what happens

Batt to driver +/-
Driver to LD +/-

if all else fails send the diode in the module to DTR or myself. I do have both presses for diodes.
 
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Alright Ill do that next. Gotta take a break, I've done and redone this ten times by now, with different heatsinks, batteries( only 2x16340's but different sets cause thats the only kind I have two of atm)

Gonna get a bite to eat, then I'll try it. If anybody has any other suggestsions before I get back lemme know
 
Well. Absolutely nothing that way either. I honestly dont know how on earth anything got fried. Unless the clicky switch is bad, and fried the fricking diode? Driver still fine on a test load.

Any other suggestions? Im out of ideas.
 
That pretty much says the diode is toast. You did see a spark when the tail cap was put on, so there must have been a short somewhere. Hooking it up the way you just did takes everything out of the equation but the Diode/Driver/Batteries, and since the driver is fine on the test load the batteries and driver are ok. You don't have any solder bridging the diode pins to the can do you? Only thing I can say it send the diode to DTR and have Him take a look at it.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.
 
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Definitely send it my way and I can tell you if it is toast. Is there any way that some part of the driver was touching the walls of the host causing the driver to be bypassed? 8V+ would probably kill a 445 pretty quick.:undecided:
 
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Nope, it was wrapped in electrical tape, just sitting down inside the plastic pill, and the positive contact was electrical taped also, and everything heat shrinked discharged all that good stuff. Still trying to figure it out, But hey. I've got another one in the mail monday. So I'll try and try again. Hopefully I can figure out what I did


Ill throw it in the mail monday just to make sure Jordan, Thanks guys for all the help once again!
 
As long as nothing comes in contact with the pins of the diode it would be safe. the only sure way to make it safe would be to short the pins together this will protest it from ststic discharge.
 
jakeGT said:
But, it wont even work out side of the host. I have the diode in the heatsink, hooked to a jib drive, voltage negative to case pin, and the battery negative touching the heatsink for negative input path, and no light whatsoever. I even tested another diode I found which is an LED'd one i had here.

Neither diode even produces led light.
Click to expand...




Hey Jake,

YOU also Have to connect the Case Pin to the Diode - input. Just Hooking the - of the battery up to the Case pine is not going to Light up the diode because the - pin input of the Laser diode is insulated and will not receive the voltage from the case.

Try Bridging the Case Pin and the - input pin of the 445nm diode. The Run your - battery input to either one of those pins because they are now Bridged.

I think thats your Problem.

:beer:
 
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Well angelos, I tried it a few different ways. And I figured out that the initial first time, what I am assuming is, that the driver touched the host HOWEVER, and the driver and diode got MURDERED right then and there, the setup was good, I had the v- connected to the case pin, that always works on the guidesman builds with a jib drive
 
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