What on earth could be wrong?

[RA_pierce]

It will work this way and it will also work with the case pin run back to the driver negative input without soldering the pins on the diode together.:beer:

To illustrate.

Diode + to driver + output
Diode - to driver - output


Driver input - Case pin on diode
Driver input + input to battery +


EDIT

Also the nice part about this way is it is you can do a microboost, flex and just about any other driver this way. Helps keep it straight. The pins being bridged won't work with some drivers.

Yes, it will work fine that way, I just find it's easier to make the diode case negative. Less wire and fewer solder joints to make.

The important thing is, without a good case connection to the negative input, whatever it may be, you wont get any power.

 

[weidmark]

Yep, that will do it. I just give it a couple passes with a file and it comes right off

Okay that's what I thought and what I had, using a microflex v5.



Also, should i remove the anodizing on the lip of the host that the heatsink sets on? It's anodized or painted black, and if it needs to be bare metal on metal for my setup to work, I have some sanding to do!

 

[jakeGT]

cool, I was gettin pissed off. I was like, I did this exact same thing 2 days ago, and it worked JUST fine.

 

[DTR]

The important thing is, without a good case connection to the negative input, whatever it may be, you wont get any power.

Yep I would make sure the lip the heatsink sits on does not have any paint on it. I normally use a dremel with a cutting wheel to sand down the lip a little.:beer:

 

[weidmark]

I did this exact same thing 2 days ago, and it worked JUST fine.

Yea its weird. Some hosts have that lip anodized there and some hosts dont... even though they are the exact same. I noticed this a lot with the blue hotlights and the guidesman hosts.

 

[jakeGT]

Okay, so check it out guys. Doing this same thing again, exact same setup. And I made sure this time none of my previous problems were there again.

SO everything is good and fine, but when I assembled everything, I popped in the batterys, and when I started screwing on the tailcap, There was a spark at the tailcap, as soon as the tailcap met the host, and them obviously it wouldnt turn on. No light whatsoever, do LED, no nothing.

Took everything apart, and did this, using a new driver. It's a jib driver, 2xAW 16340's , setup EXACTLY like this picture dtr posted. I test loaded the driver first, and it was giving a steady 1.2xxA

Now I'm doing this test, with a new driver, tested everything, and still nothing whatsoever. And yes I discharged the caps every time.

 

[Coherent Light]

Take the side clicky apart, and see if the plastic gear is ok. I had a member ship Me their hotlight to fix, and it was the switch. It was a PITA to figure out as everything worked out of the host, but not assembled.

Hope this helps some.

 

[jakeGT]

But, it wont even work out side of the host. I have the diode in the heatsink, hooked to a jib drive, voltage negative to case pin, and the battery negative touching the heatsink for negative input path, and no light whatsoever. I even tested another diode I found which is an LED'd one i had here.

Neither diode even produces led light.

 

[Coherent Light]

Possible bad driver? this is very strange. I'll have to think on it a bit.

If you got a spark just by screwing on the tail cap you have a short in your host somewhere.

 

[jakeGT]

Driver is good. Test loaded it prior too, and was giving out steady 1.2A every time.
Discharged the caps, then hooked up the Ld's, and neither one puts out any light. Batterys are at 8.36v combined.

 

[Coherent Light]

You don't have a variable voltage and current power supply do you? If you by chance do you can run the diode off the PS, and know for sure the diode is good. Do you still have the flex or did you use it in another laser?

 

[DTR]

Are you sure the diode is good. Do you have a bench supply?

 

[Coherent Light]

I thought that as well, but He said it's just like your picture. So I thought it was just an oversight on jake's part not mentioning it.

 

[jakeGT]

I just got the diode from you today jordan, and like I said, no matter what I do, I can't get any light out of it period, no bench supply. Just batteries, and a dmm.

But Like I said, last time, when you posted that pic jordan, Thats exactly what I did, with a jib drive, hooked up just like you showed in the picture, with 2x18650's. Touch the negative from batt's to the heatsink, and wallah, laser light!

I built the same setup after doing that test in aguidesman with the same 2xAW 16340 cells, and it was perfect after I removed the anodizing from the heatsink lip.

But now, I am doing the test, outside of the host, same way as before, Just nothing going. Not even on an old Led'd diode I had laying around. The only thing different is using 2x18650's, and now I am using 2x16340's. But they can and will power the jib drive just fine, I have used them in the same build twice

And no, I do not have the flex. all I have are jib drives and those old cree c6 buck drivers


EDIT: but even if the diode was bad, it would still show LED light right? or can they just show absolutely nothing period

 

[Coherent Light]

No They can go Dark as well bypassing the LED state. Can you try putting the diode in a different module?

Try hooking up the battery plus and minus to the driver input, and hooking the LD+ and LD- without using the heatsink as the negative path.

 

[jakeGT]

Different aixiz module? I mean I could try. it would be my first time pressing one though, and if I haven't killed it already, I'd rather not. I made sure to do everything perfect cause Ive lost a few diodes before to being dumb, and knew I did everything the same.

LIke i said, the out of host test should at least have made the LED diode at least show LED again I would think, but the new diode does absolutely nothing also