Re: **** True >200mW 532nm S-KY PGL-200 handheld l
drlava said:
Joe, what is the maximum time that you ran your laser, and with what pause in between? Even during my 3-5 minute tests I don't recall the head ever getting warm-hot to the touch.
I can check with sky tonight about what they say for shipping yours.
***EDIT***
Everyone, please disgregard any MA reading in this test post if they are below 1.5A draws, as there appearently was a bad wire to the meter.
But the rest of the info should be acurate.
Sorry for any confusion caused by this.
It took a long time to find the cause of those low reading.
But it still doesn't explain why when it showed the lower currents that it would run for much longer without getting hot?
But when showing high currents, it got hot fast?
And it was just a loop to the battery, so if it was losing connection that bad to show 300ma's draw, why did the laser stay lit?
So I still don't really get it?
Hey Dr.L,
Thanks for chiming in. I didn't know if I was to handle this on my own, or if you could/should first?
I have run it for every time increment up to 5-6 minutes there is, with 1,2,3,5, 10, 15, 30 minute pauses for each time run. (have went thru a few batteries-using Tenergy 2200 protected 4.12v-4.18v off the charger)
First day I didn't run it over 5 as it was stable by then and getting really warm.
Every run on each day netted different results. Some high, some low, peaks of 180 to 275mw right up close to the Kenometer. Lows of below 150mw, usually a normal low of 160's right after peak.
Then yesterday after sliding a new bat, it hit 310mw, wow, (the day before a new battery would cause it to lose 50+mw's?)
Held 300mw+ for one second then dropped fast down below 180mw (that it does everytime) and sat below 200mw for over 3 minutes untill it starts to warm up, then by 3-4 minutes, it would break 200mw and by minute 5, sitting at 230mw pretty stable.
Let it sit for a few minutes while still warm, and would spike 275mw and drop below 200mw again for over 2 minutes.
Figured it was just going thru a weird burn-in period, as it seemed to be getting better. :-/
Ok, so lets test now all hooked up. Got a new dead-mans switch made for draw connection, thermal contact and infra-red thermometers, and my train clock for time, ready to shoot the Kenometer!
Wow, doing better again today, each use seems to net some higher figures, but things I noticed.
TEST ONE:
Draw of 751ma's, temp of 73 degrees at the head, Peak 244mw's, Averaged 235mw over the first 2 minutes, then dropped below 180mw and stayed
below 200mw untill minute 6! Then it finally started to climb once the temp went up to 82 where it broke 200mw's at 6:15 minutes.
It started at only 750ma draw and slowly dropped to 450ma at minute 6 when it broke out 200mw's.
Since it was staying cool, I let her run up to 10 minutes. By then it was doing 256mw at 310ma draw and still running at 86 degrees.
Left that battery in and ran it three more 3-5 minute runs and it averaged out at 235mw, w/ 260-270mw peaks, and holding 86 degrees, so pretty good there, but bat draw was down to 290ma's.
But when I picked it up to check the TEM-02 (which is still there) it jumped back to 1.53A Draw!
(remember my previous mention that if I just touched it, it would jump 30-50mw's for a second or two)
Output didn't change much this time wether it was drawing 290ma's versus 1.50A. (maybe due to its already warmed up state?)
So at least stable power is there down to at least 290ma's left in the battery, or so the gages show.
Since it was still doing 250mw+/- I would guess the bat is good down to at least .250ma's draw and still achieve +200mw's.
How does it do this?? I do not know.
All meters and batteries and connections were checked and re-checked and even swapped meters for a run, same story.
Now, since I got it running high in ma's again,
this is were all the heat is coming from, mostly from the board I would guess?!
Trying to find the issue netted the Dead-Mans Switch as the problem inside the tail cap!
If I wiggled it around, I could change the draw from 291ma's to 1.63a, but ouput mw's stayed relatively the same on the Kenometer! (I see a contact cleaning spray being necessary, or some other kind of lube/cleaner)
Rotating the head and butt didn't have any effect on it, so the previous question on the lube causing a draw problem is not it, or so I believe w/ mine
TEM-02! Dang-it, I wonder how well it would do if it was doing tem-00???
Tem-02 was there from day one, but with company and all, I thought it was the focus lense causing it, untill I rotated the head and the oval dot didn't rotate, and last night I noticed the two dark lines in the wide beam.- :'(
So there you have it on my test. Given the fiddly switch causing draw issue, I retested a few more time w/ the used batteries and all it did was heat up, but performance was still there.
As long as it has a head temp of at least 86 degrees it will break 200mw's, anything below that nets below 200mw's. If receiving 1.5a or more, it needs to be above 90 degrees to acheive 200mw+ and at 96 degrees it ouputs an average of 250mw's.
I Let it cool down to 80 degrees again and ran a 3 minute run at 1.68A draw and it went from 80 to 91 degrees at the head in those three minutes.
When drawing 1.5A+ while already 86+ degrees, it only stayed below 200mw for around a 30-45 seconds, as by then it was much warmer than it was at test one after ten minutes of runtime at 750 -390ma's.
Now, for IR, this thing is outputting 40-45mw's of IR at 200mw's. Place the filter in front and watch it drop to 160mw! At 225mw's, IR is nearing 50mw's, and at 250mw's output, put the filter in and watch it drop to 198mw's!
That is 50+/-mw's of IR!
In conclusion,
If it is drawing what it should, it heats up within 5 minutes to over 95 degrees,
It loves to be above 86 degrees and when up to 96 degrees, it outputs over 250mw's stable at a low draw, or even if is taking the 1.5a+, then it still kicks butt as long as it is warmed above 94 degrees.
If running at a lower current below 750ma's, it will run for ten minutes with a higher outputs and way less heat.
Pushing in on the dead-mans swicth gave me the draws, but at anytime, it would just drop unless I messed w/ it again. (but it didn't effect its output much?)
If at room temp (72-74 degrees) and drawing its 1.5a+ then it stays below 180-190mw's till over 90 degrees.
IR output is way above the 10% or so I would consdier reasonable. With this kind of output, I believe it needs a filter, but then it will never hit 200mw's of green!
So again, mine is very temp sensative and has to be above 86 degrees to perform at all and 96+ to perform with a good battery/draw, and IR is way too high.
Dang that TEM-02!!!!
Pictures to follow.
Let me know what to do?
Thanks, Joe