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FrozenGate by Avery

The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Yeah! More video Tutorials \o/

@ the diagram,

Wait.. Ive been hooking the battery - to the case then to the negative of the microboost, is this not correct? i ask cause i think i jsut blew up my A140 diode, When i was using Rkster's Micro Drive i was able to use that configuration no problem...

Was i doing something wrong?
 
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If the diode case pin is isolated, it should not matter if the case is positive, negative, or neutral.
At least it should not matter for bluray and blue diodes. As always, separate/isolate the driver from shorts.
 
...very soon there will be a bunch of Kryton's being built. And many of them will be using the Micro Boost. Which is different from the FlexDrive, and you cant just bend the diode case pin together with the negative pin on the diode like you can with a FlexDrive...

I wanted to put that diagram out there, because as jayrob just described what NOT to do, I did!!! (all crazy stuff was happening when I powered the diode...) I want everyone to be informed so they don't make the same mistake I did. And I think that pictures usually put the idea across in the most understandable way. :D
 
So out of curiosity, did anything get damaged? Or did your driver and diode work after you fixed the connection?
 
viperx1101, thank you for that diagram. I understood what to connect where but was still a bit confused as to why. The diagram makes is very understandable. :thanks:

EDIT: Oh yea... just curious if there are any updates from pontiacg5.
 
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Waiting on new end mills and for the lathe or 4th axis machine to become available again, I got some stiffer endmills this time (they are a lot shorter, they can't flex as much) so cutting will go a little faster.

Shouldn't be much longer now!
 
The Diode is dead.. i got a bright flash out of it for like a seccond then the power cut down to about half and then nothing.. when i cook it up to the Rkstr Micro boost nothing i get a verry light flash when turned on.. gotta look into the diode to see the flash... So the Diode is dead.. the driver seems to be fine.. the thing did heat up quite hot but seems to still be in working order...

Im a bit confused now tho.. when i saw the diagram on the instruction manual of the micro boost it said +/- to diode on one side and +/- to battery on the other side.. Why doesnt this configuration work?
 
Yes that is correct...

But you have to keep in mind that there are more than one way to get to the battery negative. (depending on what host you are installing the driver into)

With a Kryton, the easiest way to get to the battery negative, is to use the diode case pin as shown in the diagram from viperx1101:

3633-kryton-groove-beast-wiring-diagram.jpg


If the battery was to be installed with the positive end towards the tail switch, then of course the diode case pin would be battery positive, instead of battery negative...
 
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Thanks for the diagram jay! I've had a basic understanding of how this works but you just made it crystal clear. :beer:
 
The Diode is dead.. i got a bright flash out of it for like a seccond then the power cut down to about half and then nothing.. when i cook it up to the Rkstr Micro boost nothing i get a verry light flash when turned on.. gotta look into the diode to see the flash... So the Diode is dead.. the driver seems to be fine.. the thing did heat up quite hot but seems to still be in working order...

Im a bit confused now tho.. when i saw the diagram on the instruction manual of the micro boost it said +/- to diode on one side and +/- to battery on the other side.. Why doesnt this configuration work?

How (exactly) did you (do you) have it wired up? What is the power source you are using?

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** and DON'T look into the end to see the "flash" :tinfoil:

smile.jpg
 
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Thanks for the diagram jay! I've had a basic understanding of how this works but you just made it crystal clear. :beer:

Your welcome! Mine is a simple diagram:

Micro%20Boost%20Kryton.jpg



But viperx1101 made a nicer one that I used a couple of posts above...
 
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So out of curiosity, did anything get damaged? Or did your driver and diode work after you fixed the connection?

AFAIK, nothing was damaged. I had the driver hooked up to the diode incorrectly for about a day and a half using it on and off for that period.

And other than the power output of the laser being 1/10th what it should have been (at 400mA it was outputing 25-30mW) it was lasing just fine.

But since I've fixed the connection, it is still at 400mA and my Laserbee I says it is around 195-200mW. (which seems to be about correct on the low end)

These 445nm diodes sure are tough!!! (thank goodness...)

And Thanks everyone for positively commenting on my diagram. I am really glad that it has been useful to some people so far!! :yh:
 





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