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FrozenGate by Avery

Quitting Lasers for a While

ped said:
Mainly just pushing them too far current wise..the A140's are insanely robust...but the 12x's are incredibly sensitive.
Over drive a casa diode and it'll just get very hot very quickly, giving u ample time to drop the current...but the 12x's just drop dead. Personally i prefer the 12x's as thier better burners.
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How much current are you calling 'too much' for a 12x? The most i've pushed one has been 550mA and as far as I know, that one is doing fine.
 





Won't be long until you're trying it again, I think.

I just LEDed my first diode -- after 3 successful builds -- and a rare one, at that. A 40mW 635nm. Luckily I had another, but I really wanted to produce two builds. Loose wire, I think, transient current, *bamf*, LED.

Gotta move on. Gotta keep goin'. Take some time away, yes. But it's all part of the deal, unfortunately.
 
:crackup: I have a bag full of blown diodes :whistle:

Happy Holidays.

Hope to see you back again.

Peace,
dave
 
Yeah, I found out when I am having a string of screw ups it best to take a break and come back fresh. Usually works.

My family never has celebrated any holidays. So ha. Sad.

I honesly cant think of any reason for all the failures other shitty luck. Can someone confirm that 12x are that brittle? Or was it just a crappy diode. I ran it a .52V. I Dummy loaded with 5 5400 series diodes and a 1Ohm. SO Thats the right Vf I think.
 
If you mean getting .52v across the 1 ohm resistor with the dummy load, that means 520mA.. which should be a safe current. I have one running at 500mA and sold one set at 550mA which is still alive.

The Vf should at that drive should be 6.8V-6.9V if I remember right, though I might have been checking that before the shunt resistor when I did the testing back then so the actual diode voltage is probably a little lower.
 
Violet diodes and blue diodes are made of pretty much exactly the same materials. The packaging may be different, such as the strength of the window and its glue, hence why "bumping" it could break it. No matter how sensitive your electronics are, physical contact such as "bumping" is never a good thing. It might not hurt it, but it certainly isn't going to help anything.

Have you actually built any successful lasers to this point? If not, I might recommend making some cheap ones before you jump back in with expensive ones again. Walk before you can crawl.
 
Building. I said I was going to keep posting.

Try reading.. Duuurrr most of the posts are ones that I was subscribed to so I don't wanna just leave people hanging.
 
Toaster said:
Building. I said I was going to keep posting.

Try reading.. Duuurrr most of the posts are ones that I was subscribed to so I don't wanna just leave people hanging.
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Why would you make a thread alerting people that you were going to stop building but not posting....

Im going to go to the grocery store in a minute but I dont think I need to alert anyone.

You were clearly intending to halt most posting and then later changed your mind or were not able to so that reply is bull.


As for complaining about peoples responses to your posts I hope you realize there is no anti-toaster conspiracy. The only variable that is different between your posts and others who do not get criticism is you. Instead of condemning a large portion of the forum it might be more useful to try to figure out WHY people respond this way so often.

Just my 2 cents and a little constructive criticism
 
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HAVE I made any threads. TRying to leave on good terms and tieing up any loose ends. (Threads I have earlier posted in)
 
i havnt built a laser for a month or so....should i have made a thread?
damn dude....
 
Once again, you have all been succesfully trolled... :banghead:
 
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big diff between building lasers and post building-- try reading and NOT posting. I read here for a YEAR before ever posting- and read Sam for two years-- hard to listen when you are always talking.... ya know??
 
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