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FrozenGate by Avery

Pioneer 8X Blu-Ray-- BDR-203






Mother of pearl, what a number. Longevity could certainly be an issue, but WOW.

Give it a little while, these things will get cheaper, and we'll see what power they can survive for a long time.
 
Dave, you animal!

That is amazing! :D

You also said it has an open can red? Do you know if it is a long open can, or a short open can?
Jay

Edit: Oh... I just read back and saw that you said it was a 3.8mm diode case. So it is a completely different red diode than we have seen so far. Great stuff Dave!
 
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Dave did you let the diode cool completely between settings? And how long was each burn test? You stated 45 mins total for the complete test, so was each test apx. 5 mins or so? I'm curious at to what a safe duty cycle would be with it set for around 300mw. Very seldom are mine on for more then 15 seconds at a time, I'm trying to get a ideal as to if I can justify 210 smack-a-roos for 300 mw. I'm willing to go 10 hours of life span if it can handle it. Thats about a buck a burn :o.....then again...maybe I'll hold back awhile longer till some more testing of it's life span can be determined. Please keep us informed and thanks for the info.

Chuck
 
CRFultz said:
Dave did you let the diode cool completely between settings? And how long was each burn test? You stated 45 mins total for the complete test, so was each test apx. 5 mins or so? I'm curious at to what a safe duty cycle would be with it set for around 300mw. Very seldom are mine on for more then 15 seconds at a time, I'm trying to get a ideal as to if I can justify 210 smack-a-roos for 300 mw. I'm willing to go 10 hours of life span if it can handle it. Thats about a buck a burn  :o.....then again...maybe I'll hold back awhile longer till some more testing of it's life span can be determined. Please keep us informed and thanks for the info.

Chuck
Click to expand...


I only turned the diode off twice during the entire test. I did that because it is tiring sitting here working with such small stuff. The heat sink did get warm, but never hot. Of course my testing heat sink weighs in at a whopping 6 ounces!

I know that $210 is a lot of money for a diode, but it is the only way we learn about the diodes as they become available.

I'm waiting on an answer from drlava about whether the flexdrive can give 7V of output @ 365mA before I decide which host to put this into, for my "actual use" test. I don't build drivers. If the flexdrive cannot give me 7V @ 365mA then I will have to override the mosfet on a Rkcstr to get the needed voltage with the available battery configurations I have.

Peace,
dave
 
Wow dave.... You've convinced me. I'm gunna pick up one of these drives asap.
 
daguingraph.jpg


Here ya go daguin, its a graph of your plots, it is definitely not my finest work. :-/

Great find! I wonder what these can handle in the long run...also thanks for making the 6x that I am going to be receiving soon that much less exciting. ;D

+1 for taking the plunge and expanding the horizons of the forum.
 
Well two intermissions over a span of 45mins sounds promising in reference to short duty cycles....I have two 6x's now that very seldom get used due to wanting a long life span.....210 may not be that much for 40 hours of total burn time...thats the same has a stogies now days  :-X:) ::) and a whole lot healthier...maybe I'll swing it...my scanner project can wait awhile longer...


On a side note...Dave check out this labby ...ways in at about a pound, it will have a J-type thermocouple seated on the module and a 317 circuit under the hood. I plan on roasting some PHR's 8-)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff252/crfultz/1lb_labby.jpg

Chuck
 
Hey Dave, I can tell you how to raise the max input voltage from ~12V up to somewhere around 16V, if you want.

It just involved removing one component (the input MOSFET) and making a solder bridge between two pads.  It will defeat the input polarity protection, but I think you're probably careful enough ;)

BTW, the whole reason I haven't made it past 12V input protection is the availability of a suitable MOSFET for the job.  The one I use has a combination of characteristics that allow for a versatile range of input voltages, but maxes at 12V.  There are some that will do 20V+, but the minimum input voltage is around 4-5V or so, meaning that if someone wanted to run an IR diode, it may not work... so I just stick with the one I have.

EDIT: nevermind, guess you did that already... I didn't read entirely through to the latest posts :)
 
Hey Dave, for one solution, I could build you a DDL driver mounted into a 3405 host with lead wires coming out...

DDL with pot.jpg


Then you could use 3 X 10440 batteries and have plenty of voltage! :)

For this bad boy, we would need to use a 1/2 watt pot. (the picture shows a 1/4 watt pot) LM317-1.25 X .400 (mA) = .5 (watt)

So if we use this 100 ohm pot:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=3339H-101-ND

The driver will be adjustable from 12.5mA's up to 400mA's. It is a 4 turn pot. You would have to be careful to make sure you start with the most resistance. Because I wouldn't have another resistor on there to stop you from going over 400mA's.

Anyway, if you decide that you like this solution, I have the hosts and all parts except for the pot. Just to order a single item from DigiKey will still cost their $5 dollar fee plus shipping. So your looking at about $14 bucks just for the pot.

Which means I would charge you $40 bucks plus shipping for the host/driver combo. And if you need a heatsink, you would add $23 dollars.

I would have the driver mounted in the host with lead wires coming out. Of course I would test the driver too, and have it set at 125mA's, and you can adjust the current from there with your test load...
Jay
 
Hey Jay, you actually won't need a 1/2W pot (though it wouldn't hurt anything).  I use a 1/4W pot on my drivers, which are up to 430mA without a problem, but there is also some real evidence:

I did quite a few calculations, namely on what power the pot is dissipating at a given current.  In the case of a pot in series with a resistor, the pot will actually have its PEAK dissipation when its resistance is equal to the series resistor, or about at the half-way point of the current range, in which case would be 200mA for your 400mA.  Also, the voltage drop is half the 1.25 since both are equal resistances in series, so 0.2 * .625 = 0.125W.  This can also be calculated directly by P = I^2 * R = 0.2A^2 * ~3.1ohm = 0.124.  And it is half way because as you turn the output current up, your pot is decreasing in resistance and once it goes below the resistance of the resistor, the series resistor takes a larger share of the voltage drop.  At the peak current, you pot is likely having somewhere around 0.1 to 0.3 ohm;  mine is 0.2 ohm.  So, calculated at 400mA, P = 0.4^2 * 0.2 = 0.032W.  The pot is actually barely dissipating any power, but the series resistor is, P = 0.4^2 * 3.1 = 0.496, so the series resistor MUST be at least 1/2W, but the pot is just fine at 1/4W.

EDIT: Ah, nevermind, I see you're doing a straight pot... but at least it's evidence for using a series resistor! ;D
 
That makes sense... Although I'm not planning on using a series resistor for the sake of room. Not needed if you just know to set current with a test load.

I have the 1/4 watt 50 ohm pot that is in the picture. It is a 12 turn pot. I don't have much knowledge in electronics, I'm must going off of the ohms law showing that for the 1.25 volt LM317 between the sense pins, you should have a 1/2 watt resistor for up to 400mA's...
Jay
 
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