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FrozenGate by Avery

NJG-18, multimode boost driver for 445nm.. and possibly 650nm

I can't seem to get either of the ones I ordered from the US seller above 180mA... I tried various voltage drops for my testload, too. How do I make these work? Haha.
 





i've had no luck with deal extreme as 2 orders went mia from them. luckily i finally got my store credit so i will try again. as for the US seller, i got 2 shipped in 5 days, if they are sold out again then damn im outta luck... was gonna buy 2 more. so far on these drivers, they perform well. I havent hooked them up to a LD yet as they were gonna be used for the LOC's i ordered from glenn. Using them on XR-E LED's which have a Vf of 3.2V and drawing 500mA from a NIMH AA, they perform well. Pot allows me to put as little as 50mA to about 550mA so my range is pretty good. will bypass the modes and see if they work later. Reason im using this particular LED is that its current draw and Vf is similiar to our LOC's.
 
I think the US store is expecting them back in a week and a bit.
 
everybody heads up. I just got brave enough to hook up this driver which came from e-lectronics.net to the infamously sensitive 12X blu-ray diode (bdr-s06j) and to my suprise... baam it worked!! so far, 14 matches lit, 4 cigarettes lit, a bazillion balloons popped. i would estimate it has 2 hours of use so far and still awesome. im digging through my crap to look for my camera so i will upload pics ASAP. all i can say is for $5 boost driver hitting 6.1V at 450mA driving a 12x blu-ray, this thing is the new favorite driver on my list.

more info on the build:
moh's hotlights host
NJG-18 driver from e-lectronics.net set to 450mA
BDR-s06j from Modwerx
my own created 405-g2 lens
18500 Li-ion battery

now i really gotta get an LPM...:(
 
I've now used these from the US source, dx and kai. Am I the only one who finds that the pots have no impact on current?!?

For those of you who are able to adjust current (ie down to 450ma, etc), are you taking the(-) directly from the battery? Bypassing the modes? Applying the capacitor fix?
 
rhd said:
I've now used these from the US source, dx and kai. Am I the only one who finds that the pots have no impact on current?!?

For those of you who are able to adjust current (ie down to 450ma, etc), are you taking the(-) directly from the battery? Bypassing the modes? Applying the capacitor fix?
Click to expand...

rhd, i was full able to adjust current from 0 (or something so low my DMM couldnt read it) to about 1.4A of current. then again my power source was a tabbed 18650 battery. If i used a regulated PSU or a better battery i might have been able to go higher. The current isnt linear though, it jumps from 0 to about 200ish then up the ladder to 350ish to about 550 then jumps up to 0.8A all the way up to 1.4A.

Also, i bypass the LED- by connecting the diodes case pin with the - pin and then running a wire from those connected pins to the drivers - input (the ring around the edges). I get 1 mode, and current adjustability.

it is also important to mention that the drivers from e-lectronics.net DID NOT have the C1 and + LED contact brigded. I had to use a solder blob to bridge it.

good luck with your drivers. They run my 445's and 12X 405 and my LOC so theres no reason yours shouldnt work.
 
Yes - they're working for mine too.
They just seem to default to the max current and not move.
 
have you tried the C1 bridge?

@everybody else:

those of you "thinking" about hooking these up to a 12X blu-ray need not hesitate. Since its completion last night, my 12x using this driver has sustained 3 battery recharges which should be about 2.5 hours of use. safe to say this sucker works for high power blu-rays.

1 thing to mention is that my drivers come with a very interesting feature... i believe mine somehow has a soft start feature, that puts out VERY reduced mA in the first 0.5 sec, then it rises to full power over the next 0.5 sec. (linear rise from what i can tell). only happens on the one hooked up to my 12x, the other ones used on my 445 and LOC hits full power right away. I really dont know how to explain this... but its a welcomed feature.
 
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Yep - I always bridge it if not already bridged... Its not a big deal, I'm getting good current, was just curious.
 
Where can I find some sort of diagram showing me where the input/output holes are?!
 
Oddly enough, DX is an easy place - in the user submitted photos.
 
This is awesome!!! But it must be frustrating having to flick through every single one.

Here's an idea ----> Has anyone ever thought about mounting a secondary external switch to toggle power between two power levels ie 1W vs 1.8W? I have never seen it done but maybe I have missed something.

Input anyone?
 
Well these drivers have mode groups so if you get into the first mode group you only have to cycle through low - med - high. You gotta get into the other groups which have the SOS and strobes.
 
I don't mean to revive an older thread. but there's a alot of info on these drivers in here already so I thought it's an appropriate place to ask a few questions.

I've got a few of these drivers, and I udnerstand the bridging between the two points, which is no problem, and where the positive/negative contact points.

But I don't really understand the modes system in the driver, as I turn the pot will it go through 3 set currents, ie 50- 500 -1300mA?

Also whats the maximum this driver will put out with a 18650 battery? Will it put out enough current to kill a 445nm? The reason I ask is my I have doubts whether my test load is 100% working/accurate, so if I were to hook up the diode and just turn the pot until I reach maximum brightness, instead of accuratly measuring the current with my test load. And lastly is there any caps on this board I need to discharge before hooking it upto the diode?

Thanks :)
 
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Sorry for the double post, Just tried to set the current using my dummy load, which is using a 4.1 ohm resistor not built for high currents so I can only leave it running to set the current for a little while because it gets very hot (probabally effect the resistance as well which could be apart of the problem) Anyways, I am getting a reading of roughly 3.25V, using I=V/R I worked the current to be about 800mA, using a 18650 charged to about 3.7V.

So does this sound about right? on a fully charged battery/1ohm resistor built for higher currents, do you think the driver is actually outputting around 1A+?

I assume the mode system is in play on this next question, after I rotate the pot and keep rotating, it goes from low up to a higher voltage then drops all the way back down again.
 
^ uhm, isn't the maximum current of that drive, in safe working mode, around 700 / 800 mA ?
 
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