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FrozenGate by Avery

NJG-18, multimode boost driver for 445nm.. and possibly 650nm

Just use one battery if you're using a boost driver like this.... why would you use three?

(and what did you mean by 14000?)
 





Err, my memory screwed me over. I meant the Li-Ion AAA size batteries. What other size battery does a hotlight kit take? 18650, right? (And I was thinking of using the three batteries in parallel to increase battery life.
 
In a hotlight, you can actually get a ton of flexibility:

1x 18650 (with mod)
1x 22... something - that big one
3x 10440 (or 2x10440)
2x 15270
2x 16340 (with mod)

You'd got many options, but if you're using a boost driver, do 1x18650 and it's an easy build. I don't see any benefit (at all) to paralleling 3x10440s instead of 1x18650.

Same voltage, less capacity, less current capability, more cells to recharge, more points of failure in the build, greater complexity.... zero benefits (unless I'm missing something!)

I'd go 1x18650 if you're using this boost driver, or 2x16340 (or 2x15270) if you're using a linear driver like an Lm317.
 
Hmm. Sounds good. What's the mod required for making it capable of fitting a 18650? But nonetheless, assuming a fully charged 18650, would I be capable of safely running an LOC at around 420mA? Of course it will be heatsinked (one comes with the hotlight!), but I just don't want to overdrive it, ya know? I know I would have to connect the LOC directly to the battery negative and the positive to the driver positive, but are there any resistor mods necessary to decrease output amperage?
 
...I'm pretty sure this driver has a pot for current setting :)

If you search the forum, there's a tutorial for making the hotlight take an 18650 :)
 
Wolfman29 said:
I just ordered two of them, as well! Should be fun, I should be having an LOC coming in. What's the Vf on an LOC at 400mA? And what kind of current draw am I looking at for the LOC + 1N4001 from the batteries? The reason I ask is because I may put it in a hotlight kit, but I may have to use three 14000s.
Click to expand...

I have 22600's available in the Laser Pro Shop and the charger for them. They fit the Hotlight host perfectly snug with no rattling around. They are 2500mAh and are a protected cell.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/dtrs-laser-shop-61635.html#post873613

p1014331.jpg



EDIT Also my thoughts on putting an 18650 in a hotlight unit is that it can be done but it puts a bit of pressure on the bottom of the clicky which could be bad for it in the long run.
 
Last edited:
on the order page of electronics.net (or whatever its called) it said the pot was for voltage setting. I may have missed a few posts that may have covered this but was just curious. Its been quite a while since this thread first came up.

rhd said:
...I'm pretty sure this driver has a pot for current setting :)

If you search the forum, there's a tutorial for making the hotlight take an 18650 :)
Click to expand...
 
22600 is ~5mm shorter. Spring mod + battery sleeve should work for 18650, and then you'd be able to get higher capacity than the 22600. But that's assuming you know how to do the spring mod. 22600 would be the easier fix, obviously.
 
So with multi mode drivers is it that every time the driver gets new power into it, it changes mode? as in Off - Low - Off - Med - Off - High?
 
Yep - read this thread - it was discussed in here somewhere. I forget the specifics.
 
bhwollen said:
I don't understand. You can disable modes? How so?
Click to expand...

I disable the modes by bridging the case pin and the negative pin letting the negative flow back into the driver via the driver negative output. No need to use the drivers negative input.:beer:
 
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