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FrozenGate by Avery

NJG-18, multimode boost driver for 445nm.. and possibly 650nm






well from the budgetlightzforumz link on page 2 it said something about since the mode controller runs parallel to the driver and its a negative side controller, running the diode straight to ground (bridging case to negative pin) effectively bypasses the PMIC.

heres what i dont get, they said something about the c1 and LED lead bridge not being there since the driver can be set to over 7V output and that would fry the PMIC. so i figure the bridge not being there just makes the driver not use the PMIC, and by bridging it, you enable the PMIC thus enabling modes, so wouldnt it be easier (for those with drivers that arent bridged yet) to just not make that solder bridge in order to get 1 mode?
 
On the batch I got, I got no output at all without the c1 bridge.

while unbridged did you hook up the diode negative pin to the LED- lead...or did you run the diode - straight to ground/bridge it with the case pin. cuz if you used the LED - lead it wont have output cuz that lead goes after the PMIC, but if you run it straight to ground without the bridge it should give u juice.
 
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Well.. My whole point of wanting to use these were for the modes. Without them i'd just assume use a flexdrive or microboost.
 
the modes are very unique and i would love to have them, but 2 modes is all i want...too bad there isnt any. low med hi just seem like a waste. low and hi is as practical as it gets. 1 for pointing and 1 for burning... cycling through modes can get annoying. and as wolfman says its 6 bucks. plus flex's and microboosts are sold out ATM.
 
I don't know whether this matters to you, but I'm fairly certain the "low-med-hi" etc modes are not accomplished by means of lower current, but rather by means of pulsing.

I think that is still ok for a laser diode, but it's worth noting that I don't think it's the same "low mode" as just turning down the current.

Also worth noting - the modes suck. Really, super annoying on this driver for whatever reason.
 
Yeah, except these cost $6 a piece and those cost $30 a piece.

They cost $23 last I checked. Plus they are known reliable constant current drivers designed for use with laser diodes.

These NJG-18's are constant voltage drivers intended to be used on LED's, which have different electrical characteristics than laser diodes.

Sure they might be ok for the robust 445nm diodes. And trying them with a $4 LOC doesn't break the bank if the LD dies.. But would you really want to try one of these drivers on.. say, a $100 (or higher) laser diode?

I'll probably catch hell for saying this, but I think the hobby was better off when prices were higher. When the cheapest green was >$100 and up for a mW or two.. You never heard about morons illuminating aircraft with lasers or any other random acts of laser related stupidity.
 
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It was just hyperbole.

But the real question is... where the hell do you find a $4 LOC?
 
Get in on a large group buy on LPC-815's. I'd have to hunt back to the last one I was in that I got 10 sleds from, but IIRC they were somewhere between $4 and $5 each.
 
Yup - I definitely grabbed a bunch for $5 each through a GB.

And I'm sure that if you went directly to laser-xh yourself and got a quote for 10x of them, you could talk them down to $4 or so.
 
ok so i just got my order from electronics.net and the drivers are a different color. overall its the same driver. from the datasheet they included... i would say this driver is now the perfect new boost driver capable of running a LOC red from a nimh AA or AAA. i got all these single AA cell hosts which i've made little heatsinks for and the pill of these hosts had a driver in them that is the same size so its almost plug n play. I've wanted a single cell tiny host of my LOC's and maybe sf-aw210... although the SF diode might need a 14500 to run it. i'll make a thread showing them when my sleds come in from glenn.

p1010150k.jpg
 
Hey there. I'm the opposite of you - in that I just got an order from DX, having originally used the electronics net US source.

Of 5 DX drivers, 2 worked properly, 2 were "psychotic", and 1 was a non-starter.I won't go the DX route again.

Can I ask a question -
Has anyone else observed that when you bypass the UI (modes) it seems like the pot's ability to set current gets removed as well? In fact, I've observed that the pot does essentially nothing usually.
 
DX is currently out of them anyway. I was going to order a few more while I was ordering other stuff.

And if the ones DX has are problematic, I imagine they all are. DX doesn't make them, they're just a reseller, same as everybody else who sells them unless you can hunt down the actual manufacturer.
 
Hey there. I'm the opposite of you - in that I just got an order from DX, having originally used the electronics net US source.

Of 5 DX drivers, 2 worked properly, 2 were "psychotic", and 1 was a non-starter.I won't go the DX route again.

Can I ask a question -
Has anyone else observed that when you bypass the UI (modes) it seems like the pot's ability to set current gets removed as well? In fact, I've observed that the pot does essentially nothing usually.


I have had pretty good luck with the ones from Kaidomain and the US seller. I have had two that I fed too much voltage when I was initially testing trying to get higher currents and the pot stopped working and the units were stuck on about 750mA.:)

I also tried to order some drivers from the US seller and I could only get two. So I am assuming they are out again as well.
 
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