rhd
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cool. did you measure the output current? is there any pot?
I'll order few pcs and test them with my o-scope
I believe I measured the output current at 0.75 A with a 5x 1N4001 test load. Having said that, the measurement came early in my testing of this driver, and I can't remember if that figure might not have actually been with a 6x 1N4001 test load.
No pot on the driver.
Ok, so the curve is not a property of the driver? Sounding good so far. Does it need heatsinking? And what's the Ampage on the low-power mode? (Tell me if these are stupid questions)
Slightly off-topic. Do you find the Rayfoss torch hosts always have really smudgey output windows?
Probably. I don't know if this is a strict requirement, but I would recommend it considering this is a small driver and we're pushing it past it's intended use (as far as I know). I used a lot of arctic silver to connect it to the aixiz module back. It's not the most perfect heatsinking I could have attempted, but it's a lot better than open air.
Rhd,
Where did you put the 10 mike ceramic, on the driver, on the LD pins, or what (I'm assumming that it was a SMD). Did you replace the LED leads, or use what came on the driver? I plan to use one in a Guidesman host with a seperate heatsink for the driver. So, new leads for the LD and... hot from the guidesman sw to driver and Black (neg) from the case pin on the LD to the outter ring on the big board of the driver (to still have modes), or to the black LED lead connection (to bypass modes??)?
Sorry to bombard you with such stupid, elementery, questions, but, I ordered three from DX and I figure that it'll take say an eon or two to get them and the this thread will have gone off and left me before i get the drivers... So, I'm trying to ask everything that I can think of while the thread is still hot. Thanks,
Splat
- I put the 10uF SMD cap across the diode leads themselves. That's a tough solder, and you can't really do it without a third hand / helping hand tool, but my feeling is that it's the best way to protect a diode, especially when experimenting.
- Yes, I replaced the LED leads with Flaminpyro wire. The stock leads are stiff, and tough to use in small spaces. Also, on one of the three drivers I received, the +/- were soldered on backwards! Shocker - China makes mistakes!
- Regarding setup and bypassing modes. I might have mislead on that point. I haven't bypassed modes after all. I've been connecting back to the driver (-) from the case pin, and that does not seem to bypass modes. The modes are still there, I just didn't realize it because Low/High are pretty close in appearance, and the "pulse" is fairly smooth once a cap is on the diode. What I don't know, is whether bridging case pin & LD (-) without a feed back to the driver (-) would accomplish this.