Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

New 9mm 445 diodes

rhd said:
Ran some spectrometer tests on the diode I got from DTR.

Here's the nutshell:
500mA, 443nm
1000mA, 445nm
1500mA, 447nm
2000mA, 450nm

I won't comment on the actual wavelength, because that will probably vary from diode to diode even with these 9mm units. However, I'll note that the response to current increases is fairly typical for the diodes we're used to. When I search for really high wavelength diodes (the 457 and 458nm gems), I always bin based on performance at 1000mA. Generally, I expect to see a 5nm increase as current moves from 1A to 1.8A. In fact generally most of the wavelength gains come from that range between 1000mA and 1800mA. So, this diode is on par.

I want to provide one really big caution:

Please, let nobody take this data as an indication that "the 9mm diodes are 450nm". I can just envision such a statement incorrectly circulating as gospel. It would be an incorrect interpretation of these results. I'll facepalm you and slap you with a trout ;) Diodes from the same array consistently vary at least 10 nm between extremes. Since we started decoding diode serials, I've even had the ability to compare almost consecutive diode serials, and even they vary. So the data above is just ONE reading of ONE diode, and is no more authoritative than randomly spectrometering ONE diode from an M series projector. Really, the only value to the data above is in confirming two facts:

1) There's no reason to suspect that these 9mm diodes are all some new wavelength.
2) They tend to react to current increases identically to how 5.6mm diodes react.
Click to expand...

Jeepers, I really appreciate all this research work you and DTR put into these. 2 years ago, It used to be like this:

1. Buy three diodes.

2. Render one of the diodes useless, via ESD, or clipping the wrong pin off. :(

3. Connect the second diode and graph output vs. current until it COD'ed.

4. Observe "knee" on graph, and make one laser for actual use.

5. Diode dies 4 months later.

Things are much different now. We have a much more scientifically thorough community now!

Thanks guys!

-Tyler
 





justinjja said:
Was the cold start change any more apparent at higher currents?
Click to expand...

Not really. The underlying theme here is that it's current that most obviously impacts wavelength. Whether that's via the mechanism of heat, I don't know. But it really doesn't matter because if it is, it's heat that happens at such an instantaneous and emitter-specific location that nothing we do externally will have any impact.
 
Has anyone pushed one of these diodes yet? I have two flexdrives running at 1A each that i'd love to pump into this sucker :evil:
 
I have one in a build running at 2.1A. Its Seems to be No Problem.

There is No Different behaver i have noticed so far and i have an Estimate of ~3 hours of ON time on it.

Its pretty stable too. Stable as in How a Normal 445nm diode would be at 1.8A.


The Host i have it in is the same host i had a 1.8A build in. So comparing them side by side i see no difference in behavior like Dropping in power faster,Flickering,Dimming etc....

When i get off work ill get that Long LPM video Up. I totally forgot about it.

Iam not saying that 2.1A is Safe. Iam Just OK with it and if it dies oh well. Then it will just add to the data that Possible 2.1A is not Safe or my diode could not handle it.

Its Lazing along just fine. Its the only 445nm laser i have been using to try to get time on it.

I wish i had a Control Lab setup right about now that can run through cycles like IgorT had.
 
Last edited:
Tech_Junkie said:
Igor posted his set up. Maybe you can make one too.

We can all chip in to get you the parts. :can:
Click to expand...

Do you know where that picture is.?:)

It would be Nice to Have personal at my disposal, However I dont think iam the Right person for it.

I Probably have to say guys like Cyparagon or pullbangdead would be a better choose for something like this.
 
I know its in one of the old murder threads. I think the 8X thread.

I'll go through them a little later and gather some info.
 
Thank You.:beer:

Ill take a Look at it. It does not look to complicated to make.


Yes. Going through those old post is where i turn too for help 90% of the time.

But you do find bad times here and there.:(
 
Hey any of you guys that got some of these diodes from me have any problems getting the lens off the can?

Mine came off pretty easy but Andy had a problem with his. He said that the window cracked on the diode when he tried to remove the lens holder.

Any thoughts? How easy did they come off for you guys and how did you do it.:beer:
 
DTR said:
Hey any of you guys that got some of these diodes from me have any problems getting the lens off the can?

Mine came off pretty easy but Andy had a problem with his. He said that the window cracked on the diode when he tried to remove the lens holder.

Any thoughts? How easy did they come off for you guys and how did you do it.:beer:
Click to expand...

Indeed the window cracked, seams that glue is quite strong.

I stuck a tiny screw driver between the cap and the lens holder and did a little pressure under each side, could hear the glue cracking so carried on. Removed the lens support then looked at the front and saw I had also cracked the glass. Of course I said god dam it.

So after I stuck the diode in my lathe which is tiny and removed the top of the cap, should be quite safe given it has ESD protection.

So all is not lost but interested to know how others managed to get the lens holder off.

Thanks DTR for the note above.

Andy
 
When I did it I used a miniature flat head and pried from the side of the can not on the top to loosen the two legs that go down the side.

At first I thought you meant when it lifted it pulled the top of the can but you are saying you pried against the top? I would try and spread those legs instead of putting pressure on the top of the can.:beer:
 
DTR said:
When I did it I used a miniature flat head and pried from the side of the can not on the top to loosen the two legs that go down the side.

At first I thought you meant when it lifted it pulled the top of the can but you are saying you pried against the top? I would try and spread those legs instead of putting pressure on the top of the can.:beer:
Click to expand...

I think next time I will clamp the lens holder or diode body in a vise. Certainly the caps are not so strong.
 
I used a small set of "nippers"
nippers.jpg

to break the glue bond. It spreads the torque against the can out a bit

Peace,
dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top