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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

LUMIA- one thread for all-

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LUMIA is making a huge comeback- its a great way to make the transistion for handhelds to projectors and it has been around for nearly 100years.

UPDATE see newest post and also check this out!! perfect RGB for small LUMIA

read the review post 11
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/new-aixiz-houston-white-laser-modules-90405.html



So simple- so elegant and something much better to do with your lasers after popping matches and burning balloons becomes SO boring.

I would like to see a LUMIA thread with a sticky or even a section all its own.

A simple one color build, once you have the few parts needed can be finished in a single day.

just smoothly rotate something that the laser can shine through attach it to ANY base- I like using the thick plastic-like cutting boards or evemn a piece of wood will do for your first build.

A simple RG can be made for under 50$ if you know the 'tricks'
.

To see how any piece of glass etc will look just shine a pen pointer thru it ...some stuff looks nicer than you expected and occasionally I find item that looked promissing but just did not meet my expectations.

A simple 1RPM clock motor will do for your first- any faster is IMO too fast.
as you very likely will destroy most pointers if a rest cycle is not used look for a good deal on the RG 'twinkle' ;asers at EEKBay and dont pay over 20$ with free ship- you may have to snipe a bunch of listings but my sniper make all that part super simple(PM for details)

these are designed for long run timers-most have a fan plus you can add more fans to your enclosure and they too are NOW almost free .

The circuits on these RGs will turn off one of the lasers from tim,e to time which is a good thing- they have rotating difraction gratings inside so that also makes for interesting LUMIA. you can get plug n play RGB ready to buld with from Techhood and high power is not needed all that much- they have ttl blanking so for very little $$$ you can have 7 color LUMIA. ( * if yopu count black laser)

Think outside the box with LUMIA the glass need not be flat nor even round
as long as you can keep your laser beams on the rotating glass you are fine.
Your housing can be almost any item that all fits inside of a lunc=h box has been used a few times.
I am in the progress of building one inside an old Kodak slide projector.

fitting --yes?

I will put some pics in this tread of my LUMIA kits starting at just 8$.

If you need motivating see Swamidog's vids at You Tube.

he does some super things and has been not only a good friend. but very helpful.

Searching the word 'Lumia' will get you a weeks worth of reading, pics and vids... easy

One of the projectors in my new GB has two LUMIA efx built in but I am not as happy with those as one moves too fast and the other not at all.
You can get a pro Lumia PJ for around $600.
..but they are great fun to build.

the only limitation is one's imagination.

some of the best labbies for these are the new mini labs at AixiZ.com

Small footprint and stackable drivers make for a small footprint-AND as they all match =those who get to look inside will be impressed.

dont buy to much green- as it will overpower your RB and V.
also dont spend too much on your 445/450- BUT you cannot ever have too much 405 and that is also true pretty much with your choice of red- (you will like 638 more)

allow me to order for you and I can get you a better deal-AixiZ is one hour drive for me so pick up for cash is a good thing.

******************

now for the links...

the latest--
http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/experimental-lumia-effects-85076.html
 
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quick correction:

swamidog is not adam. ;)

and now the good stuff:

my laser lumia eggbeater.

lumia-guts.jpg



more of my lumia experiments:

argon torture tube lumia


dotted lumia


405nm (bluray) lumia on glow paint


some scan through projection effects (with lumia)

 
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SORRY "Bout that Swami- there are more Adams IIRC into lasers than most other first names- and they are all very helpful.. so glad you corrected me and added to this thread-

I was going to PM you a Q but will ask it here instead..

If using flat glass is there one way thats better/safer/etc-

Should I have the 'textured' side or the flat(ish) side facing the laser? I guess 'spectural vs reflective'-- I have been just trying both to see which looks better but when we consider a reflection back into the laser or going some direction unsafely.... also if clear lightbulb is used could heat make internal pressure and make the bulb expode? I will just test one with my green lab laser and see. TY for posting your vids- hak
 
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If you have never made a LUMIA -- here is an easy way to cover the lasers you need for a small one.

****************************
mini bliss

less than 20$ make an offer( I just offered 13$ each for two of them-prolly get turned down but...)

Hot Sell Mini Projector R G DJ Disco Light Stage Xmas Party Laser Lighting Show | eBay

the listing says item ships from USA- this listing does not show the mW of the red and green lasers- at least they are not claiming more that the real output= hard to LPM these so I guess they are around 20mW 532 and maybe 60mW of red- fine for small LUMIA box-

I got a few of these as returned not working the motor inside that rotates the diff grates. had a loose wire-

i was about to solder and thought.. why not use this as the R & G for a LUMIA_ should run a long time OK- has a tiny fan on the back-- the circuit inside turns each laser on and off at times- so that works for me- very small- ez to mount using the bracket it comes with and mine had a mic and sound response too-so does this one-- hard to beat 20$ for what you get - ready to use- nothing to do except mount and aim thru your LUMIA glass-

After the lasers go thru the LUMIA glass I am quite sure these will then be eye safe- still don't want to aim into people eyes but should be safe enough for 'normal' uses.

Maybe 'Massdrop' can get us a deal on 100 of these --

have fun!! Hak
 

Pman

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Wish I had some pics or vids to put up but will show what I did fooling around that works very well.

Heard somewhere about someone using one of those clear plastic cd spacers so that's what I did.
Warped it by putting it on top of a glass pan with marbles between it and the pan and then heated with a heat gun.
Now the effects aren't super passing through the way I suppose most people would do it but if you turn it so the laser passes through multiple angles then it is really something.

All I did was take a grommet and fit it inside the cd hole and then a perfect size pen tube that fits snugly on both the gear and the grommett. Just run it facing sideways. Yes this is a 1/3RPM motor and I definately would not want it to spin any faster.


1re8.jpg


fz1x.jpg


Send beam through this way
8vum.jpg


84zd.jpg


2y25.jpg
 
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Good idea.... I might try that with some bb's and probably throw some sharpened pellets in the mix. Think the smaller bubble diameter is key. +1's all around! I'm getting some sort of lumia off the ground ASAP, especially since I have a pj to through it through, which has become known as some sort of wizardry, I see it more as disco warlock. Sorry Len and Kapn I rep you guys too much haha, send it through when it lets me :)
 
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Pman

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Yeah, I realized that the more I distorted the cd. Need lots of very small distortions if you want to go through it straight on or you need to stack the cds.
Looking through stuff to see if I have any more blanks around. Use to have tons of this stuff.

Just looked through a lot of my "stuff" and came up with 5 more blanks:).
Made a couple more very different from the one above by heating and folding and then dremeling a hole for the motor gear.
qw85.jpg


Used the rest to make different patterns. The top 2 are not the same pattern.
84tg.jpg

jbaj.jpg
 
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in my experience, textured side out seems to work better.

just be careful to angle the glass a little to reduce the risk of back reflection into the diode.

SORRY "Bout that Swami- there are more Adams IIRC into lasers than most other first names- and they are all very helpful.. so glad you corrected me and added to this thread-

I was going to PM you a Q but will ask it here instead..

If using flat glass is there one way thats better/safer/etc-

Should I have the 'textured' side or the flat(ish) side facing the laser? I guess 'spectural vs reflective'-- I have been just trying both to see which looks better but when we consider a reflection back into the laser or going some direction unsafely.... also if clear lightbulb is used could heat make internal pressure and make the bulb expode? I will just test one with my green lab laser and see. TY for posting your vids- hak
 
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in my experience, textured side out seems to work better.

just be careful to angle the glass a little to reduce the risk of back reflection into the diode.


TY Swami - so i guess as long as the efx is about the same- going thru the textured side first or the flatter side is OK and an angle to avoid direct reflection back is advised.

some may laugh at the size of Pete's 'wheels' but you will get a bigger laugh when I post one of my first finds- its a glass three stick candle holder and is about the size of a dinner plate--lol i was using Red HeNes and an argon blue so big wheels for big lasers..

Smaller wheels are better as the farther on goes from the center the faster the glass moves. so regardless of size going for a spot close to the center looks better.

pics comin' to this post later..
 

Pman

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Len has a good point about the speed. As I've said, I wouldn't want anything faster than these 1/3RPM motors. Len has said this over and over and I couldn't agree more. It's not about how quickly it changes at all but really the opposite so you really can enjoy a show. This is NOT a spyro. It seems like most of the units I've seen when doing an internet search show the use of a motor that is 1RPM or greater and that is way too fast unless what you are shining it through doesn't have much in the way of distortions.

I can add or subtract pieces and do whatever I want. It was just neat that I found a way to make this with no cost to me.
The truth is that I have a couple of made wheels coming my way at some point here. In fact, I had forgotten about them until just now. Maybe tomorrow. Won't matter though if QS shows up because then I'll be messing with that instead;)
I kind of assumed it was OK to post the pics of what I'm messing with here.
I don't know why but for some reason 405nm looks especially cool for lumia.
 
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Yes no such thing as too much purple-I found that cutting way back on the green helps.

I used JB Weld to join pieces of different textures-- the JB completely block the lasers for a short time and that looked OK. But if you use clear A/.B epoxy you don't get that 'blanking'and thats Ok too it makes some interesting efx itself- going to make one with a plain untextured glass round i found nothing but clear epoxy.

my first wheels were so big I rotatated them with the AC motor from a BBQ pit rotissiere.
A bit fast some are 2RPM (or more)some just one rpm but it was almost free at a thrift shop and plenty of torque too.

since then I have picked up several more- one i use with a strong magnet to rotate a mirror ball from beneath (magic)
- I made my first Mirror Ball from scratch . literallly took found 12 inch square pieces of thin mirror and with a glass cutter cut (by scratching)a bunch into small pieces and attached them to a 12" fishing net float with tub caulkling. (I had the flu and nothing else to do)

Right now I am collecting pieces of FSMirrors and making a small version about 8 incher= free source for me has been old one-step poliroid plastic cameras 1$ at thrifts- no way to get film for them- there is also a nice 3vdc motor inside good for spiro.

Plus every tossed out flat bed scanner has several FS mirrors mostly long and not to wide and a bit thick but still cuttable.. and free.

Will share this too.

not sure its been done BUT_- instead of rotating the lumia glass itself- bounce the beam off a FS Mirror attached to the 1/3rd RPM motor then thru the glass- no need to glue or cut into a small square or round shape- thus its the beam that moves across the lumia glass instead of the glass moving in front of the laser--A nice dude ata glass and mirror shop gave me a HUGE box (actually two boxes) if 4x6 inch samples.

The glass was extremely thick and I had a hard time cutting it had to resort to a NO-NO when cutting glass-repeated scratching AND scratching the other side- It worked-
I used tiny ball peen hammer =& made a tap on the center of my scratch.

I have enough room inside for a second motor= FSM and another laser- they cross sides-
AND that PJ is very close to being completely sealed- no big apeture in the front-
thus less dust getting inside





Swami mentions scan thru- this IMO is a no brainer- place it(LUMIA GLASS) in front of any PJ and you will have lots of control if the PJ is being ran with soft like LSX or QS or even DMX- I attach mine to the front with velcro- my faceted bulbs work nice for this and the images go every where- all across the ceiling and three walls the floor etc.-

Move where the beams hit the bulb(s) for all sorts of lumia.

LUMIA RULES!!


hk
 
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OldNo7

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Yeah, I realized that the more I distorted the cd. Need lots of very small distortions if you want to go through it straight on or you need to stack the cds.
Looking through stuff to see if I have any more blanks around. Use to have tons of this stuff.

Yours turned out way better than mine. I didn't have a heat gun and when straight for the torch. I like the marble idea. I was going to try and use a heatsink to create a wavy pattern in a piece of glass. I was having trouble with thermal shock and the glass kept shattering. That would be much easier with the CD. Actually you could heat up the heatsink and press it into the CD.

If you run out of the blanks you can use duct tape to take off the media layer of a blank CD (or a cd that's no longet needed)
 




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