Someone had mentioned trying clear epoxy on galss or plastic so I just tried it and it came out fantastic. I just kept messing with the epoxy as it was hardening. Way easier than messing around with a torch to distort glass.
Aplied it to a piece of round plastic/plexiglass and to a clear light bulb.
Also, I tried the Lumia with a 405nm and hitting the GITD screen I made
and it casts a weird green/yellow shadow everywhere it hits for another dimension which is really something. You guys need to try this out.
I think I am going to be putting a black border around this GITD screen like my actual theatre pojection screen has. Too plain looking as is and the dowels definately need to be flat black.
It would be so inexpensive to just spray paint the GITD on a white sheet or big pieces of white paper. Hoping someone else will try this out and see what I am talking about.
I like the light bulb idea. I used a small butane torch (the kind used by chefs) and an exacto knife with a point/spike instead of the blade. The torch came in a kiot to make Creme Brulee. The exacto I got from radio shack. Came with a bunch of blades including the spike, but a nail would work just fine.
First make sure your wearing safty glasses at least. Start heating up the glass slowly. Don't get the flame to close at first, if you try to go to fast the glass will crack. Make sure you keep rotating the bulb so that it heats up evenly.
Once it's nice and warm move the torch closer and focus the flame onto 1 spot. You should make sure this spot isn't facing you. The pressure will buildup inside the bulb and blow out a small hole in the molten glass. Now move the torch to a different spot heat it up until it glows read and poke it/move it with the spike.
Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the finished bulb or the lumia. I'll add them to the post tonight.
also at thrifts -metal or other boxes to use as enclosures
glass door knobs
the glass from overhead outdoor lights 5 pieces in each one
& they make something that kinda looks like an amoeba.
stuff with usable switches-wire-
jump on every Poliroid one step or other instant camera
FS mirror inside. and a 3vdc motor
try rotating the beam instead of the glass FSM glued to the motor
slightly off a 90 degree angle- actually its kinda hard to glue one on perfectly staight
Glass & Mirror shops- ask if they can part with any of the samples they get of textured glass-one guy gave me the whole box as they never wanted to buy any of it (too thick) I took a pointer with me and they people there got very interested and more friendly_ I found some pretty good green pointers at Ebay for 4$ each and went back to give it to the manager who gave me the free glass --sadly last time I stopped in I think he was no longer working there-
OK so I have a couple Laser Star projectors. Quite a cool little toy like a blisslight. It has a "Nebula" wheel that shines an array of blue LEDs through two pieces of Lumia glass and a diffraction grating for a green laser that makes lots of little starfield like dots all over the place. In one of my units the laser died so I pulled the machine apart and found a really nice little lumia setup. It has a motor with reduction gears that spins both the nebula glass and the diffraction grating. I shot my Reke through one layer of the glass and the effect was quite nice. I will be playing around a bit more with this. Here are some pics:
#1 A terrible picture of the lumia on light gray basement wall
Just picked up a couple axis lab units to get a lumina started. They use a 12v power supply and I've never used anything like that. But I think it will make a great lumina unit. 180 mw 635nm and a 150 mw 405 nm cooled lasers. Just need to use some of your suggestions on a good setup for the power supply and laser arrangement
Labby are on the way! Looking for a housing and good power supply. I started a thread for any suggestions. I was advised to grab a couple wall adapters 12v 2a and cut off the ends and wire the labbies. I think that should be the cheapest. Cut the ends, and red to positive black to neg on the laser driver correct?
these can be a good green for projects like LUMIA or multi color spiro- liq. Sky or tunnel efx-
you can rurn down the power with one of the trim pots BUT avoid doing that too much-- these pots are not built strong enough to stand a lot of adjusting .
here is the power cord I found to work well- just fix in place with a LITTLE hot glue
You may like this one because the green is the last color we need more of- this labby can be turned down at the pot.
so while running you can adjust the power of the green to match any others you are using -
+4 To Cameron- nice share
here is one good choice to the green in any project--
I attached a pic of the ez way to power this little green labby-
I use a dab of hot glue to keep it in place and turn the pot as LITTLE as possible= not designed for too much use - when running turn the power down untill you can see your other colors well-