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FrozenGate by Avery

Look what I just got in the mail, a host designed and built by ArcticDude.






That is a really nice host, Tero. I like it a lot.

And as Alaskan mentioned in the video, great it has fins for heatsinking.

Let's look at geometry: Volume is a^3 and surface is a^2 (for simplicity cube is used for illustration), you see? With higher a, the volume rises much higher than surface. That is reason why some small animals (like birds and mamals) have to have higher heart beat rates and faster metabolism - just to keep them warm enough to live due to this relation. For heatsinks it is however needed to radiate heat and get somehow larger surface. Especially large heatsinks are more heat accumalators than radiators - so well designed fins are needed.

As my high school physics teacher said as a joke: "Lasers are just an expensive heating."
 
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Very nice, I really like the seat for the 3X, and the side momentary will make quick shutdowns easy and that's good for the urban environment.

p.s. I can't get a very long working life out of the de-canned NUBM07 either, they don't seem to do well even at only 3.5a once the GBall/can is removed.

Besides the divergence of the m-462 is better, same as the NDG7475 and NDB7875/M-140 . The de-canned 07 makes a line twice as wide as the 7475, the 44/08 a line 3 times as long as the 7475/7875.
 
Radim, it's not so easy to spill out a lot of words about a technical subject and keep it as tight as it should be, reviewing the video I realised the way I talked about the heat sink wasn't exactly right, heat sinks do sink, but unless they can get rid of the heat by having a large surface area to allow a more efficient transfer of that heat out of the mass to the air, at some point, it just starts getting hotter, but of course this depends upon the amount of mass and the amount of heat being generated. Put a low power laser diode in the amount of aluminium used in this pointer and it won't over heat with or without fins. However, by adding fins, you can run high power laser diodes much longer without overheating, if not indefinitely, depending upon the diode used and how much heat it is producing.

RCB, I like the 465 nm so much maybe it would be better to leave the can on and fasten a negative focal length lens in front of it, then collimate. Extra loss, sure, but prolonged life too.
 
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Alaskan said:
Radim, it's not so easy to spill out a lot of words about a technical subject and keep it as tight as it should be, reviewing the video I realised the way I talked about the heat sink wasn't exactly right, heat sinks do sink, but unless they can get rid of the heat by having a large surface area to allow a more efficient transfer of that heat out of the mass to the air, at some point, it just starts getting hotter.

RCB, I like the 465 nm so much maybe it would be better to leave the can on and fasten a negative focal length lens in front of it, then collimate. Extra loss, sure, but prolonged life too.
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That was not even the purpose of the video to get into technical view too much IMO, Alaskan. Anyway it is a great video containing all needed. Well done. I just added out of the box view for others to see why fins are very important in such a host. That's all. :)
 
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Alaskan said:
RCB, I like the 465 nm so much maybe it would be better to leave the can on and fasten a negative focal length lens in front of it, then collimate. Extra loss, sure, but prolonged life too.
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You mean expand the GBall output with a concave or double concave lens, then focus with a PCX, that's an interesting idea, but have you tried it?

I have used the GBall output with a 3XBE and found it to do interesting things, for instance some GBalls produce a 1/4 square at 10 feet and others a square, and that spot can vary in size greatly from diode to diode even of the same number, although diodes from a block are lensed the same not every 06 you buy single is lensed the same, they vary.

With the smaller printing GBalls that make a 1/4 - 1/2 square I find with the 3XBE I can get a decent burning rectangle at 15 feet, but not the short sharp line I get with a G7 , but a short thicker line however I get a razor sharp line 1 - 1.5 inches long at 50 feet that burns.

The different part is with the GBall removed and a G7 + 3XBE I get sharp lines at 15 and 50 that do grow in length with distance, but with the GBall the closer lines can't get near as thin as they can at 50 feet, so the fixed setting of the GBall has come into play, where as the can removed G7 I set.

Being a longer FL pre set to...???? the 07 you start with could be hard to focus tight far field, but maybe not as they typically expand pretty hard with the 07. The trick is you can re adjust a G7 or G2 primary but not that GBall.

The Gball along with the uneven divergence of the diode makes for some unexpected effects after lensing post GBall, because that's basically what the 3X is doing, it's a negative then a positive that's adjustable, also how close I get to the GBall changes the spot size, but that makes sense, however I choose a longer focal point GBall 06 diode, most 07 diodes make a larger print.....anyway please do share your results if you try that, the way one lens in a train effects the next can do as expected, or confound us at times.
 
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Radim said:
That was not even the purpose of the video to get into technical view too much IMO, Alaskan. Anyway it is a great video containing all needed. Well done. I just added out of the box view for others to see why fins are very important in such a host. That's all.
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I did however make a bit of a misleading statement, should have been explained differently. I corrected myself in the YT textual info for the video, thought I should do so here too.

ArcticDude said:
BTW Chris, did U find the other PCB for green LD from package?
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I was just looking at it again tonight and just noticed it has ArcticDude etched on it, was going to PM you and ask about it, please tell :)

RedCowboy said:
You mean expand the GBall output with a concave or double concave lens, then focus with a PCX, that's an interesting idea, but have you tried it?
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I'd like to try it, I don't see any reason putting a negative FL lens in front, or a concave lens, single, or double, would not work just fine to do what we want; increasing the life of the diode by keeping it canned. I don't have a Gball diode to try, but I am so certain it will work it's a given to me.
 
I just worried that you did throw it away because it was between bubble wrap.. Nothing more :p

As I said that is just extra PCB with green leds and Blue led PCB is intalled into host, since I didn't know which color side button you want..

EDIT
btw batteries goes Positive forwards.
 
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Thanks, I missed that. Appreciate your having thought of it and included that board.
 
So theoretically I could take one of my GBall intact units with a 3XBE on it and remove the output lens and use a wider longer FL lens at a further focal point, but when I try that I get the wings, maybe there's some lens ratios that we need to obey and I wonder if simply a PCX is correct.....acc's build that you posted a video of uses a 44/G2/Jet10X input and a binocular objective lens as his output. I think the bino lens is convex on both sides, if they are equal or not I don't know but I don't want to tear up any of my binoculars as they are nitrogen filled, although I was looking at some cheap ones on ebay.
 
I've never tried to use a bi-convex lens, now I'm wondering if they might help with the wings. Only way I've been able to avoid wings with my fat beam NDG7475 or NUBM44 is to waste a lot of the collimating PCX lens, only painting about 40-50 percent of the possible aperture through it, then no wings.
 
It's fun to experiment and see what you can get, I think the G2 is good as it's efficient and gets close to the diode where the beam is tight ( 2.39mm RFL ) then correct and use a neg-pos BE but I am always looking for an easy way, and with the GBalls we may need an assortment of lenses to do what we want keeping the cans intact. Neg - Pos sounds right, but every GBall grind may have a different RX unless we have a BE pair with enough range.
 
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Alaskan said:
I did however make a bit of a misleading statement, should have been explained differently. I corrected myself in the YT textual info for the video, thought I should do so here too.
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You are a perfectionist. :D That's great. I've just seen it again and read the YT description. Again well done. However this heatsink stuff should be obvious for viewer from LPF IMO, but good you mentioned that for others not being familiar.

Also with LPF links it can attract some new members. Maybe... Definitely chance once this beauty lives! :D

Please keep us updated further as you will put in some "organs" to make her alive. :beer:

After seeing video again, I feel freezing of upcoming laser purchase more and more... Hopefully Sanwu's RGB portable is out soon, so I can satisfy this increasing obsession. :crackup:
 
ArcticDude said:
I just worried that you did throw it away because it was between bubble wrap.. Nothing more :p

As I said that is just extra PCB with green leds and Blue led PCB is intalled into host, since I didn't know which color side button you want..

EDIT
btw batteries goes Positive forwards.
Click to expand...

Any chance we can get a link to the actual switch!
 
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