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FrozenGate by Avery

Look what I just got in the mail, a host designed and built by ArcticDude.

Thank you for sharing those numbers with me. I really like that 07, but in that case, not with the GBall on it. Now my thoughts go to whether I could seal the diode output side of the DTR module using Teflon tape on the lens tube threads, somehow filling with inert gas. Probably would need a special tiny little fitting on the side of the DTR module between the diode and lens to get the gas in, and an outlet vent to exhaust the regular air when filling, then closing both off. Doesn't appear to be very easy to do, would require some very fine machining, a gas source, tubes and all.... That N465 is looking better now.
 





Cant wait to see it on GrabCad!

yo.gif
 
Thank you Tero, another question, how much current can the switch on this host take?
 
Alaskan said:
Thank you Tero, another question, how much current can the switch on this host take?
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My NUBM07 is driven 4.5A so at least that much :D :D

EDIT
I think MOSFET spec said 40V 10A and leds are limited to max 12V IIRC, just check the resistor going to leds.
 
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ArcticDude said:
Here's the actual switch board & button. :p
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P1130547.jpg


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:drool: Just drooling how awesome this host is. Very precise boards as well. Damn it, you know I planned that 445 nm 7 W diode for large surface illumination in the future. Now I do not know - go with Grainde's host or with ArcticDude's host (still curious how would be duty cycle with this host and 7 W diode)? :D Really I need that Sanwu's RGB ASAP, so I can think about something other than first build based on something that awesome. I still have "Project A" and some soldering to be done, I cannot afford to split my attention into another project as I wish to have it finished by spring. :crackup:

Very nice, Tero, I like that switch with LED indicator of the host so much. However, in case of blue laser, I would choose red LEDs to make sure they are visible with glasses on (especially when using high OD goggles, where you see just tiny mostly fluorescent dot).
 
Radim said:
.. I still have "Project A" and some soldering to be done, I cannot afford to split my attention into another project as I wish to have it finished by spring. :crackup:

Very nice, Tero, I like that switch with LED indicator of the host so much. However, in case of blue laser, I would choose red LEDs to make sure they are visible with glasses on (especially when using high OD goggles, where you see just tiny mostly fluorescent dot).
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Thanks Radim! :thanks:
You'll have to tell us something about this "Project A", it's not nice to spill out little bit and then zip it, you know? :crackup:
 
ArcticDude said:
Thanks Radim! :thanks:
You'll have to tell us something about this "Project A", it's not nice to spill out little bit and then zip it, you know? :crackup:
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That is on the post list of Laserpainting thread already. Hopefully sooner than later. :crackup:
 
Alaskan said:
Thank you for sharing those numbers with me. I really like that 07, but in that case, not with the GBall on it. Now my thoughts go to whether I could seal the diode output side of the DTR module using Teflon tape on the lens tube threads, somehow filling with inert gas. Probably would need a special tiny little fitting on the side of the DTR module between the diode and lens to get the gas in, and an outlet vent to exhaust the regular air when filling, then closing both off. Doesn't appear to be very easy to do, would require some very fine machining, a gas source, tubes and all.... That N465 is looking better now.
Click to expand...

One member said he had received some 07 diodes with a good GBall print, but you can't order that way, it's buy and see what you get, but they will run for a while de-canned and using Teflon tape on your primary lens barrels threads when you set it's focus and then do your focusing with the beam expander is a good choice.

If you were to purge the air I would find a small thread in vacuum valve and evacuate the Teflon taped chamber with a hand operated vacuum pump, but will the 9mm diode leak any where it's pressed into the copper module ?

You could build a vacuum glove box and replace the GBall can with a window can, be careful about outgassing of any sealer that would need to cure outside the glove box. I would try the UV glue while in the vacuum box.

OR just buy the N-465

This guy has built his own glove boxes and goes to a lot of trouble to make hologram glass, I would just buy one already made likely from china, but the glove boxes can be built from snap lid tubs and sealed with a gasket around the lid.

Skip ahead to 10:00 to see his 1st glove box, 2nd at 13:20 with a rubber seal household clear plastic storage boxes could be used to make a vacuum glove chamber. An electric vacuum pump would be good for a vacuum glove box. An airlock chamber with a smaller gasket can also be attached if your large lid needs to be sealed with silicon.




 
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RCB, you always come up with good stuff. I could also use that to remove air, then fill it with nitrogen and put the lens on with Teflon tape. I don't know how many normal air molecules can cause a problem or how well something like that evacuates air, so I think better to first vacuum and then replace with inert gas, but maybe unnecessary. I'm betting just pressing the diode in would seal the back side of the assembly, but that would need to be tested somehow.
 
Really nice host! :) Yep, those fins are a must have, plus they give a much more aggressive look which suits high powered lasers. 465nm is a good looking wavelength and a bit more interesting than a 445/450 in my opinion.
 
Agreed, even though 465 nm is only 15 nm higher than 450, it sure makes a beautiful world of difference with that baby blue shade.
 
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