- Joined
- Feb 23, 2008
- Messages
- 2,832
- Points
- 48
hey drlava did you get my pm..?
Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers
Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations
Links below open in new window
FrozenGate by Avery
Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits pens
- Thread starter drlava
- Start date
- Status
drlava
0
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,152
- Points
- 0
Arenared, basically the 8x drivers will be boost only and will be able to handel the 7V of the 8x diodes.
yep, responded ndrew.
yep, responded ndrew.
HIMNL9
0
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 5,318
- Points
- 0
Hi, i received yesterday the 2 modules i ordered from you, but one is arrived with the inductance broken (ferrite was chipped in several pieces, as you can see from the pics)
When i complained with delivery peoples, they replied "sorry, insufficent package", and don't take any responsability, as they usually do
there's a way for get an identical inductance for repair it ? ..... i don't have one of the same value, that suppose it's 3,3 uH, and don't know what current it can hold, just looking at it
When i complained with delivery peoples, they replied "sorry, insufficent package", and don't take any responsability, as they usually do
there's a way for get an identical inductance for repair it ? ..... i don't have one of the same value, that suppose it's 3,3 uH, and don't know what current it can hold, just looking at it
Attachments
drlava
0
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,152
- Points
- 0
Crap, I had been experimenting with those plastic cases hoping they would be safer than the bubble wrap method, but apparently not when there are 2 drivers in one case. I'll send a replacement, was it preset?
HIMNL9
0
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 5,318
- Points
- 0
No, not preset.
So, this one can't be repaired ? ..... do i have to send it back to you ?
So, this one can't be repaired ? ..... do i have to send it back to you ?
drlava
0
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,152
- Points
- 0
it can be repaired if you want I'll include an inductor too. But I don't expect you to be responsible for repairing it.
HIMNL9
0
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 5,318
- Points
- 0
Well, thanks ..... if you prefer to send me one, it's ok for me.
Being sincere, i only have hand instruments ..... can probably repair it, but the drive looks machine-mounted, so i think that try to repair it myself, give me only 50% of the possibility to get it working again
Too bad that the delivery peoples don't take responsability for all the things they break ..... times ago, for send around chips and components, i also had to buy from RS antistatic plastic boxes, otherwise they always mangle all the chips i was sending
Again, thanks.
Being sincere, i only have hand instruments ..... can probably repair it, but the drive looks machine-mounted, so i think that try to repair it myself, give me only 50% of the possibility to get it working again
Too bad that the delivery peoples don't take responsability for all the things they break ..... times ago, for send around chips and components, i also had to buy from RS antistatic plastic boxes, otherwise they always mangle all the chips i was sending
Again, thanks.
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2008
- Messages
- 169
- Points
- 0
jimmy, 8 is too many diodes.
you need only 4 for red and 6 for BR. 6x has similar voltage drop as phr so you only need 6 diodes.
Also when measuring your tester you need to be measuring mV across a resistor, not current. The value in mV across the resistor = the value in mA that the drive will put out to your diode.
you need only 4 for red and 6 for BR. 6x has similar voltage drop as phr so you only need 6 diodes.
Also when measuring your tester you need to be measuring mV across a resistor, not current. The value in mV across the resistor = the value in mA that the drive will put out to your diode.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2008
- Messages
- 396
- Points
- 18
Hey Dr. Lava, I sent you 4 FlexDrives to be repaired (several months ago), and you sent back 2 without charging me. Were you going to charge me for all 4 and send the other two back, or just make up the diference when I buy two more FlexDrives?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2007
- Messages
- 3,660
- Points
- 113
Dr. Lava:
I've been having trouble using your order page. I get an "address not found" message.
Can I send you payment via paypal directly?
I need six V4 drivers.
Thank you.
Edit: It's back up again... so nevermind
Ordering now.
I've been having trouble using your order page. I get an "address not found" message.
Can I send you payment via paypal directly?
I need six V4 drivers.
Thank you.
Edit: It's back up again... so nevermind
Ordering now.
Last edited:
HIMNL9
0
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 5,318
- Points
- 0
Hi doctor 
, i received today the other drive, again thanks.
By the way, i have done some tests on the survived one, and also repeated them on the one arrived today, and discovered one thing that can explain (maybe) the threads that says that these drivers kills diodes ..... BAD SWITCHES
I usually use dummy load and DMM for set the current, but the day i was doing it on the driver, i had all the DMM in use, so just connected the oscilloscope to the resistor of the dummy load ..... and have seen that, in some conditions, the "ramp start" of the regulator, become fooled from "scratching connections" of the wires (sorry, don't know how to explain it better, my bad english strikes again)
I mean, if you don't use a good switch, or also just use bare wires kept on the battery with hands, the output of the driver, instead the usual "ramp" (it's fast, but it's still a ramp) at startup, made a, how can call it, glitch, spike, that can go from 1,5 times to 2,5 times the presetted current, also if the duration is usually around 50 to 100 microseconds (at least, with the driver presetted at 200mA, i got spikes that was from 300 to 550 mV, on the 1 ohm resistor, that means 300 to 550 mA of current) ..... this happens both connecting and disconnecting the power supply, but only occasionally, and ONLY using very bad switches (that generates lots of bounces) or "scratching" the wires on the battery poles (mean, intentionally making insecure / spiked contacts)
As far as i have seen, it happens usually just one or two times each 10 or 15, but being LD's sensitive as they are, and maybe in some mounts, being "just a little bit pushed high in current"
..... after all, if you use it for a 200 mA diode, and time by time get "spikes" of 550 mA, the diode can also resist, if cold and not frequently used, but if already overheated from use, in critical conditions and frequently turned on and off, it can become damaged from repeated spikes like these, i think.
Anyway, as i said, my tests was getting these spikes only around 10% of the times, so i'm not sure if the real cause of these dead diodes can really be this one ..... will try in the next days some more exaustive tests, after i build something for not have to stay myself pushing the button all the times (it was already difficult to find a weak button, here, had to intentionally ruin one, LOL) ..... maybe an old relay with half-burned contacts, drived from a 555 ..... and, if i get something better than this webcam, trying to shoot some pics to the scope screen (nothing to do with the webcam, sorry)
But hey, if the problem is really this one, solution can just be using good quality switches (and, maybe, an rc series with 100nF and 22 ohm in parallel to the input, too, just for the safety)
, i received today the other drive, again thanks.By the way, i have done some tests on the survived one, and also repeated them on the one arrived today, and discovered one thing that can explain (maybe) the threads that says that these drivers kills diodes ..... BAD SWITCHES
I usually use dummy load and DMM for set the current, but the day i was doing it on the driver, i had all the DMM in use, so just connected the oscilloscope to the resistor of the dummy load ..... and have seen that, in some conditions, the "ramp start" of the regulator, become fooled from "scratching connections" of the wires (sorry, don't know how to explain it better, my bad english strikes again
)I mean, if you don't use a good switch, or also just use bare wires kept on the battery with hands, the output of the driver, instead the usual "ramp" (it's fast, but it's still a ramp) at startup, made a, how can call it, glitch, spike, that can go from 1,5 times to 2,5 times the presetted current, also if the duration is usually around 50 to 100 microseconds (at least, with the driver presetted at 200mA, i got spikes that was from 300 to 550 mV, on the 1 ohm resistor, that means 300 to 550 mA of current) ..... this happens both connecting and disconnecting the power supply, but only occasionally, and ONLY using very bad switches (that generates lots of bounces) or "scratching" the wires on the battery poles (mean, intentionally making insecure / spiked contacts)
As far as i have seen, it happens usually just one or two times each 10 or 15, but being LD's sensitive as they are, and maybe in some mounts, being "just a little bit pushed high in current"
..... after all, if you use it for a 200 mA diode, and time by time get "spikes" of 550 mA, the diode can also resist, if cold and not frequently used, but if already overheated from use, in critical conditions and frequently turned on and off, it can become damaged from repeated spikes like these, i think.Anyway, as i said, my tests was getting these spikes only around 10% of the times, so i'm not sure if the real cause of these dead diodes can really be this one ..... will try in the next days some more exaustive tests, after i build something for not have to stay myself pushing the button all the times (it was already difficult to find a weak button, here, had to intentionally ruin one, LOL) ..... maybe an old relay with half-burned contacts, drived from a 555 ..... and, if i get something better than this webcam, trying to shoot some pics to the scope screen (nothing to do with the webcam, sorry)
But hey, if the problem is really this one, solution can just be using good quality switches (and, maybe, an rc series with 100nF and 22 ohm in parallel to the input, too, just for the safety
)
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,144
- Points
- 83
Dr. lava, I to have had the ferrite chipped off in the past. I ordered 3 V4's .
Can you please send them in a way that the drunk USPS won't be able to crush these sensitive (expensive) laser driver. Thank you in advanced jander6442.
Can you please send them in a way that the drunk USPS won't be able to crush these sensitive (expensive) laser driver. Thank you in advanced jander6442.
Last edited:
drlava
0
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,152
- Points
- 0
Hi guys I'm away this week, just though I'd check in and say Hi and I'll get to shipping out the rest of the orders when I get back. These are now out of stock and will be back in later.
Yes you are correct himnl9 a scratchy connection can fool the turn-on circuit and could cause a spike, so 'decent' switches are highly reccommended! Good research
Yes you are correct himnl9 a scratchy connection can fool the turn-on circuit and could cause a spike, so 'decent' switches are highly reccommended! Good research
Hi guys I'm away this week, just though I'd check in and say Hi and I'll get to shipping out the rest of the orders when I get back. These are now out of stock and will be back in later.
Yes you are correct himnl9 a scratchy connection can fool the turn-on circuit and could cause a spike, so 'decent' switches are highly reccommended! Good research
did my order ship out before you go ?
thanks
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2009
- Messages
- 356
- Points
- 0
I just placed an order for another Flexmod driver with LASORB for blu-ray. I need your paypal to send you the extra money for an additional LASORB. I am also mailing in my flexdrive for repair. I understand you are out this week so just let me know when you get back. If you could also set the flex drive for the 100mA to 312mA range before you send back that would be great but I understand if you can't. Thanks.
- Status