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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
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Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits pens
- Thread starter drlava
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
I sent the payment to you Drlava. Did you ship my Flexdrives yet?
Devin.
I sent the payment to you Drlava. Did you ship my Flexdrives yet?
Devin.
Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
question to anyone who knows,
how much current can these take? im trying to put one of those cree LEDs into an old minimag.
so i need to know how many amps this driver can take, input would be 3v output would be 3.7v
500mA/3.7v would be very nice :
question to anyone who knows,
how much current can these take? im trying to put one of those cree LEDs into an old minimag.
so i need to know how many amps this driver can take, input would be 3v output would be 3.7v
500mA/3.7v would be very nice :
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
I have an industrial grade soldering iron with a needle tip.
These flexdrives are a breeze for me
PM me, and i'll hook you up with one
Maybe you should use something other than a RadioShack Iron :sk8er4514 said:
I have an industrial grade soldering iron with a needle tip.
These flexdrives are a breeze for me
PM me, and i'll hook you up with one
dr-ebert
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
@weetsies, that's no problem for the FlexDriver - see the manual that's available somewhere here in the thread. You could even get up to ~800mA (note, a CR123 has ~2.8..2.9V under load). The two rules-of-thumb:
1. Input current <= 1.2A
2. Output watts ~ 0.9 x Input watts
Max output current (achievable only if output V <= 0.7 input V according to these rules) is 1.5A (limited by the available current selection ranges).
@weetsies, that's no problem for the FlexDriver - see the manual that's available somewhere here in the thread. You could even get up to ~800mA (note, a CR123 has ~2.8..2.9V under load). The two rules-of-thumb:
1. Input current <= 1.2A
2. Output watts ~ 0.9 x Input watts
Max output current (achievable only if output V <= 0.7 input V according to these rules) is 1.5A (limited by the available current selection ranges).
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Hey, Dr. Lava, my iron slipped and there is a little component that is now no loner on my v4 flexdrive. It's the small one next to the + diode contact, indicated in this photo. Do I need it? If I don't need it, can I short across it? leave it open circuit? Please advise, hoping I don't have to reattach it properly to make the driver work.
Thanks.
Hey, Dr. Lava, my iron slipped and there is a little component that is now no loner on my v4 flexdrive. It's the small one next to the + diode contact, indicated in this photo. Do I need it? If I don't need it, can I short across it? leave it open circuit? Please advise, hoping I don't have to reattach it properly to make the driver work.
Thanks.
Eku
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
I'm pretty sure thats resistor so yes you will have to solder it back on sadly. (if you can find it!)
I'm pretty sure thats resistor so yes you will have to solder it back on sadly. (if you can find it!)
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
It's actually the output capacitor...Eku said:
Eku
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
It's actually the output capacitor...[/quote]Spyderz20x6 said:
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
Um, no.
Not even close.
It shorts out the driver if you solder it on backwards.
It's actually the output capacitor...[/quote]Eku said:
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
Um, no.
Not even close.
It shorts out the driver if you solder it on backwards.
Eku
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
Um, no.
Not even close.
It shorts out the driver if you solder it on backwards.[/quote]
Ermmm,, ok then I have no idea on EARTH how my laser is pulsed....
It's actually the output capacitor...[/quote]Spyderz20x6 said:
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
Um, no.
Not even close.
It shorts out the driver if you solder it on backwards.[/quote]
Ermmm,, ok then I have no idea on EARTH how my laser is pulsed....
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Output capacitor as in it goes across the output/parallel to the output? If it's simply a capacitor parallel to the output to limit spikes and such, then that's great.
But I'll wait for lava to let me know first. Thanks for the help guys, but just want the authoritative ID before risking anything.
And I do have the thing still, it would just be a pain to put it back on, I'm not really set up to do SMT, I barely get by just soldering wires to these v4 drivers.
Output capacitor as in it goes across the output/parallel to the output? If it's simply a capacitor parallel to the output to limit spikes and such, then that's great.
But I'll wait for lava to let me know first. Thanks for the help guys, but just want the authoritative ID before risking anything.
And I do have the thing still, it would just be a pain to put it back on, I'm not really set up to do SMT, I barely get by just soldering wires to these v4 drivers.
Eku
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
I soldered the black thing between the postive and negative on the other back on 3 times, I made it very cripsy though...
pullbangdead said:
I soldered the black thing between the postive and negative on the other back on 3 times, I made it very cripsy though...
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
I also desoldered that by accident lol and it was surely ruined by being consumed into the solder So I simply put some solder in its place as to complete the circuit and all was well 
It's definitely not a crucial componentpullbangdead said:
I also desoldered that by accident lol and it was surely ruined by being consumed into the solder So I simply put some solder in its place as to complete the circuit and all was well 
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
It goes pulsed if the batteries are low
It's actually the output capacitor...[/quote]Eku said:
Oops meaning soldering it backwards makes it pulsed I think, cause I accidently desoldered a thing like that on my flexdrive and I think I soldered it back on backwards making it pulsed!
[/quote]
It goes pulsed if the batteries are low
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Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Ok, I have a problem and I am not sure what it is. I connected up the driver to the rkcstr test load, and when I go and test it with a power source nothing happens. I am not getting any readings from my MM (yes, I have it set to mV).
I am pretty sure this is all I need to do to start testing it...but maybe I am missing something. Everything is wired correctly, and I have even tried turning up the pot to make sure it wasn't too low or something. The only thing I can think might have went wrong is that I got a little bit of solder on a part next to the negative hole where you wire the diode output to. Is this an issue? Also when trying to remove the solder it got heated up pretty good.
BTW, reason my solder job on the negative wire is so crappy is because when I was soldering, this bridge came up between that little part and the wire, so I attempted to de-solder it with a pump and got most of it, but this thru-hole stuff is ridiculous when the solder clogs up the hole...its basically impossible to remove. This was just going to my test load so I wasn't too concerned on how it looked or how great of a solder job it was..I just needed to make the connection until I got done testing the driver.
But I do admit..this is incredibly frustrating on how close these little parts are to the solder areas...I mean come on, give everybody a break and make more room for soldering. Any slight, slight, slight miss and the entire thing is soldered together...and desoldering, for the most part, is impossible on small crap like this. With all these parts and pieces so close to the solder areas, its amazing people don't screw these things up more.
Ok, I have a problem and I am not sure what it is. I connected up the driver to the rkcstr test load, and when I go and test it with a power source nothing happens. I am not getting any readings from my MM (yes, I have it set to mV).
I am pretty sure this is all I need to do to start testing it...but maybe I am missing something. Everything is wired correctly, and I have even tried turning up the pot to make sure it wasn't too low or something. The only thing I can think might have went wrong is that I got a little bit of solder on a part next to the negative hole where you wire the diode output to. Is this an issue? Also when trying to remove the solder it got heated up pretty good.
BTW, reason my solder job on the negative wire is so crappy is because when I was soldering, this bridge came up between that little part and the wire, so I attempted to de-solder it with a pump and got most of it, but this thru-hole stuff is ridiculous when the solder clogs up the hole...its basically impossible to remove. This was just going to my test load so I wasn't too concerned on how it looked or how great of a solder job it was..I just needed to make the connection until I got done testing the driver.
But I do admit..this is incredibly frustrating on how close these little parts are to the solder areas...I mean come on, give everybody a break and make more room for soldering. Any slight, slight, slight miss and the entire thing is soldered together...and desoldering, for the most part, is impossible on small crap like this. With all these parts and pieces so close to the solder areas, its amazing people don't screw these things up more.
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