Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

GB laser barrels

I just achieved 109mw in My kryton with a Xbox HD diode.  don't know the current.  It's a lavadrive V1 but it fluctuates soo much it's hard to tell.  Think the drive is messed up as it doesn't "ramp up" at all.

I started at 90ma and it was roughly 70mw or so although whether it's a true representation of the current or not I've no clue cause it really doesn't match up to the graph all that much. Anyway, it would drop down to 40mw pretty quickly and I thought it was battery sag or something. So I changed batteries and it's kind of randomly moved up to where it is now at 109mw that decreases down to 50mw and then back up. I really should do a graph on this thing. it's the oddest thing.
 





Hemlock Mike said:
Wise guy huh?? ;D Beat this :)

6x BluRay in a Kryton 8-)

Mike
Thats what i'm talking about :) very impressive. Is it still graphing straight?
 
Hemlock Mike said:
Wise guy huh??  ;D   Beat this  :)

6x BluRay in a Kryton  8-)

Mike

Wow Mike! Over 200mW's!!! :o
What current is your 6 X running at?
Jay



P.S. Kenom, here's the 'beam shot' picture that you 'hinted' would look good in your barrel thread...

This is an example of a nice build using Kenom's awesome Kryton barrel with Lava's FlexDriver:
803T-1.jpg

* PHR-803T blu-ray diode.
* Kryton barrel by Kenom.
* FlexDriver by Lava. (set at 90mA's)
* Powered by 2 X 3.0 volt Lithium primaries.
* 92.8mW's (AixiZ acrylic lens - plastic cut away)

The excellent driver by Lava, is held in a sturdy position by some 'quick set epoxy putty'. Which will come off easy enough if the LD should ever need to be replaced.

Here's a beam shot:
803T-2.jpg

Normal garage lighting, with some smoke.

My personal preference for the o-rings, is not to have them installed. (I like to tighten the end caps metal to metal, and tighter than the rubber o-rings allow - just to make sure of a good connection, as the negative battery current travels through the threads)

P.S.S. This laser is for sale: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1212202326/0
 
Hi, kenom. I'm sorry i can't PM you (I've got less than 15 messages in this forum :) )

Name: Luca Vitucci
Address:
(Daedal)

Luca
 
OK then. I'll ship it to him then....

I had fun this weekend. NOT!!
 
Hmm, I received my barrels, everything you've heard about them being great is correct. I wanted to take some nice beamshots of a fancy Blu-ray beam, but I can't, for the life of me, get this Fusiondrive to do its job. I'm trying to strike a balance between using the 2.7k "red" resistor and the 100k "blu-ray" resistor so that I can achieve higher current for the PHR-803T diode. Even using 80k still makes the minimum current about 130mA (higher than the minimum range for the red even), and the thing get really hot to the touch.

Attached is the basic design of the Fusiondrive, minus the input capacitor and 1 ohm resistor inline with the laser diode. Looking at the actual circuit design, I'm not sure how it's designed to regulate the current, nor how to modify it for my own needs. From my own analysis, the LM385-1.2 zener diode U4 sets a lower voltage (1.235 V) than the V[sub]out[/sub]-I[sub]adj[/sub] of the LM1117 (1.25 V), which means that current should actually flow into the I[sub]adj[/sub] pin from the pot rather than downwards and out towards ground. It also implies that there is a negative voltage differential between the bottom of the Zener U4 and the pot R3.

Is this analysis wrong? More importantly, does anyone know what would make some good parameters for this?
 

Attachments

  • BLUEFUSION_DRIVE__LDO_reg.JPG
    BLUEFUSION_DRIVE__LDO_reg.JPG
    50.8 KB · Views: 84
Wow!  to change the current so that it's an acceptable current for your bluray all you want to do is change the value of R1 to a different value.  it's R1 that sets the current level.  I don't know exactly what value yet but I will ask lava to chime in on this.  

With it as is there is no way for it to exceed the 75ma indicated as there weren't these diodes available when the driver was designed.

Attached is the original circuit that lava designed for this and bluefusion modified a little to work for this purpose.
 

Attachments

  • LDO_reg_001.jpg
    LDO_reg_001.jpg
    28.9 KB · Views: 96
From the other group buy, it seemed that Bluefusion tested it, but I just find it odd that to change the current ranges, such a severe jump needs to be made from 2.7k on R2 to 100k. It doesn't put out good values in simulation either (though Multisim is a POS a lot of the time); I'll be trying it later with Orcad.

Just not sure what to make of it. I'd also like to understand how this was supposed to work, and the heat that's being generated scares me, because that usually indicates that something isn't working correctly. Since the Fusiondrive is the default driver that is shipping, it'll be good to work these things out.
 
well, I've assembled about 5 of these and they all work withough getting really hot. so I donno. but then again, I'm not using them for the 803t.
 
Hey Kenom,
A suggestion for your second run. Maybe create a diode seater. Simply cut the ID of a piece of stock to the OD of the head. Bore a center hole with a 3mm diameter. Maybe make it thick enough to not have the leads stick out. Then all people would have to do is put the diode at center, place over the seater and push it in with a vice.
It would be a small item, very easy to turn out on the lathe. Maybe offer it as an option for a few bucks or something?
Would be very easy to draft up.
 
Few $ $$ ???  I made my pusher like this several months ago.  Took about 45 minutes to make ONE  :(   You don't want to know about the push out die.  Steel and very thin walled.  
As Kenom has said, tooling and fixtures ain't cheap  :(

Mike
 
I've found that the back of an AixiZ module works very well for that purpose. :) It's not as much of a hassle as milling your own. :P
 
I've already posted this in this thread so it's repeat information for those that didn't see it the first time. You can use what is known as a cable stop. They are aluminum rings designed to be hammered onto the end of a wire cable to prevent the cable from slipping any further than the stops' placement.

Here is what they look like and they work perfect.

DSC00059-1.jpg
 
I've run into a potential problem. I'm shipping barrels out pretty consistently and have shipped out a ton of packages thus far however I'm only 3/4 of the way through processing my orders and it appears I'm out of barrels to ship. I DO have 7 barrels that have defective tailcaps that are getting turned again in the second run to replace the defective one's. So this is where I ask those that have bought multiple one's to speak up and tell me if they would be willing to sell back 1 or 2 of the one's they purchased to fill this order. I cannot believe this is happening,

Also I'm so disorganized as a result of the stuff that is going on that I have no clue if I've double shipped any barrels. IF I HAVE PLEASE SHIP THEM BACK FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!
 
Kenom said:
I've run into a potential problem. I'm shipping barrels out pretty consistently and have shipped out a ton of packages thus far however I'm only 3/4 of the way through processing my orders and it appears I'm out of barrels to ship. I DO have 7 barrels that have defective tailcaps that are getting turned again in the second run to replace the defective one's. So this is where I ask those that have bought multiple one's to speak up and tell me if they would be willing to sell back 1 or 2 of the one's they purchased to fill this order. I cannot believe this is happening,

Also I'm so disorganized as a result of the stuff that is going on that I have no clue if I've double shipped any barrels. IF I HAVE PLEASE SHIP THEM BACK FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!
:o
 
I would also like to point out that I DO NOT have any of these barrels for myself.
 


Back
Top