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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: White Fusion Laser Mixing Kit

I should have mine completed by this weekend, as long as I can quit blowing up my LPC diodes.

You probably wouldn't be able to do that using this sled. The only way to combine the reds is a pbs and you can't do that since that's how the blu-ray is combined with the red. You could knife edge the reds but that wouldn't fit into the sled.
 





Adapters could be made for other LD packages that generally have higher outputs but another combiner would be difficult. One direction I was thinking of trying would be to replace the PBS with a dichro and then use an external PBS to combine 2 full kits. I remember a link to some 405nm dichros somewhere but I can’t seem to find it anymore.

I have also been looking at different micro controllers to expand the functionality. There are tones of choices out there. Maybe we should compare notes.


Thanks,

Ryan
 
laserwave sell 405nm dichros. They are very efficient with blu-ray but have about 10% loss of the other lasers passing through. If you move to a dichro your going to need to be able to adjust it on 3 aixiz or mount it perfectly aligned like the cube is. I ran into a bunch of problems doing this so I switched back to just using the sled.
 
Hey Sightfx.

I'm wondering if you can do me an "inbetween" kit. I'm looking for the basic kit, but for the optics to be pre-aligned - How much would you charge for this?

Rob
 
Hey Rob,

Unfortunately the mirror alignment needs to be done with the lasers that are going to be used in the final build. The beams that come from the Green DPSS modules all come out at different angles and the get corrected by the mirror during alignment. I can add the greenie only and we can see how it goes as long as you understand that it is a bit experimental and the mirror would need re-aligned if it the red and blu-ray are too different from the ones I would use to set the mirror alignment.


Thanks,

Ryan
 
Neat fact for anyone attempting this:

JB-Weld epoxy is NOT 5-minute epoxy, it's 4-hour epoxy. I had this set up over the weekend, I built drivers for all three lasers, mounted everything, set the mirror ever so carefully, had everything aligned, got a pretty white beam with everything at low powers, then checked on it every two minutes, turning it on, readjusting the mirror ever so carefully, waiting, readjusting the mirror, waiting, then, after about an hour of waiting I tried adjusting the screws for the mount on the green when the allen key must have touched the driver or something, but basically I fried my 100mW green module. :scowl:
Since the mirror's positioning depends so much on the green module, I'm forced to start from scratch.

Do NOT use JB-Weld epoxy for the mirror, it just takes too damn long to set.
 
pseudolobster said:
Neat fact for anyone attempting this:

JB-Weld epoxy is NOT 5-minute epoxy, it's 4-hour epoxy. I had this set up over the weekend, I built drivers for all three lasers, mounted everything, set the mirror ever so carefully, had everything aligned, got a pretty white beam with everything at low powers, then checked on it every two minutes, turning it on, readjusting the mirror ever so carefully, waiting, readjusting the mirror, waiting, then, after about an hour of waiting I tried adjusting the screws for the mount on the green when the allen key must have touched the driver or something, but basically I fried my 100mW green module. :scowl:
Since the mirror's positioning depends so much on the green module, I'm forced to start from scratch.

Do NOT use JB-Weld epoxy for the mirror, it just takes too damn long to set.
Click to expand...

Is the green really fried? That sucks if it is.

I wouldn't rip out the mirror until you get a replacement. Sometimes you can rotate the green so that it at least originates from the same point and then adjust the angels to line it all back up.


2 things may have happened and I want to make sure. If you touched your driver with the allen that's one thing but a more common thing could be that you adjusted the green too far in and the module touched the screw that holds the plate to the sled. This will ground out the + case pin of the green to the - case pin of the red and short out the driver. I have done this a few times without any damage to the green. The circuit is simply shorted before the current gets to the business part of the diode in your module. The current goes through the case instead.
Pull you green out and re-test it alone if you haven’t already.
 
So how's this all coming along. Do you have any estimates on when you'll be ready to ship?
 
Hi murudai,


I have everything but the BRDs. I had a nightmare of a problem troubleshooting an issue that was blowing them out with the last FlexMod build I did. It turned out to be my bench power supply was spiking. Costs were higher than I would like to admit. Anyway I have more BRDs on the way. Sorry for the delay.


-Ryan
 
I plan on using this kit to make a spirograph. What is the difference between the flexdrive loaded option and the full color driver option? Does the flexdrive option still come with the pre programmed patterns?
 
The flexdrives are allot more efficient and run at a lower input voltage, but they are only constantly on with a set brightness. Then there are flexmod drivers that can run all kinds of patterns for a scanner lasershow or whatever you want, but you need a DAC and I don't think you can run them without a computer connected to it, I'm not sure. The full colour driver is a stand alone device that is easy to use and portable, but is limited to the pre-programmed effects.
 
Do you know how much the flexmod drivers cost and where you can buy them? What is a DAC? I have a laptop that I could run the lasers off of.
 
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