>500mW White Fusion + FML Driver: Pics & Video

Here is my recently completed White Fusion Laser. Special thanks to SightFX and FireMyLaser.

Here's some links if you want to build your own:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-white-fusion-laser-mixing-kit-42013.html

The White Fusion Kit works great, It makes aligning the lasers much easier then without it. It also allows for better beam alignment and easy quick adjustments. I would recommend this to anyone who wants to have an amazing laser.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-full-colour-driver-extension-white-fusion-kit-44052.html

I think this driver is a MUST for this kit. It takes the abilities of the laser to a whole new lever compared to basic non modulated output. The size and shape is also great for fitting this thing into an enclosure. Setup is quick and easy, Support was great.

Laser Output (after optics):
190mW 650 LPC RED ~350mA
270mW 405 LG-8x Blu-Ray ~280mA
50mW 532 O-Like Green ~350-550mA

The lasers do not get warm under modulation. Under CW mode, with no modulation the lasers get quite warm, another reason this driver is great.

The laser can be used with Li-Po or external power supply. An built in power plug will soon be added.

When powered by Li-po the driver heatsinks only go up to 100 F and they last about 30-45 min ( I used a 15 min on 5 min off cycle)
When powered by the wall power supply the driver heatsinks go up to about 125 F

The laser is also missing a exit aperture soon to be added.

My camera way over saturates the green so it throws the white balance way off. I would have to re turn the balance for the camera and I didnt feel like doing that, I will just get a batter camera later.

More info is in the Pictures and Video.


Video, Please watch in HD http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LIbtrDNKww

Very nice. I want one bad and will have one soon...

That is one of the sexiest lasers I've seen in a long time! You integrated all of the latest tech (White fusion, FML driver, LiPo batts) and still managed to squeeze it into a small case, as well as have a power above .5W! :drool::drool::drool:


More pics and vids or I will die!!!

Welcome to the 7colour club!

I just happened to have a look at the FML driver tutorial thread today and it struck me that not only do you change the programs but also have options within the programs (Duh!)

Its absolutely awesome when its going through a spiro with some smoke.


Nice!

You don't even need a spiro, just a tunnel. Although next I'm working on a 3 motor spiro with stepper motors next.

Video is up!

Sweet build! :gj:

Looks like an 11.1 volt LiPo correct?

Awesome man...

Very neat, I like it! Where do you get those batteries and charger? I'm also looking for an aluminium box in similar size as your plastic one, but so far I haven't found one. If anyone know where find a good box I'd be very thankful!

Yes an 11.1v LiPo . Heres a site with good prices.
Battery : http://www.hobbypartz.com/kahaoubrmo9.html
Charger: http://www.hobbypartz.com/si23celibaba.html

It provides a decent life, although I'm looking to add a plug for 2x 12v 600mA wall wart power supplies run in parallel for unlimited life. This thing is so cool its easy to kill the batteries pretty quickly.

I got the box from digi-key. I'm sure they might have an aluminum enclosure for you.

awesome, i hope mine will be ready soon :yh:

Congrats on the final build. I know how much work you put into it.

It looks like a well thought-out design.

I'm sure, you are glad it is finished.

The Red LOC beam looks well-defined. I know you were concerned about the Red aspect ratio.
Are you happy with the other beam profiles ??

I have plenty of 9 VDC switching supplies & power plugs, that can easily handle that load with those regulators.

The copper bar should give you plenty of heat-sinking.

I just started using the same thermal pads on my triple PHR Blu-Ray drivers.

LarryDFW

Will you be building it ?

mfo said:

Very nice. I want one bad and will have one soon...

Click to expand...

Well Done Mr. W!

Great Video!

How thick is that strip of Copper? I like that everything stays sealed up. 100F is perfect so your making me think my fan and vented heat sink are a little overkill.

Heres a Link for the enlclosure. Keep in mind I had to make a few mods to the enclosure to get it to fit well. I only have three mounting legs in my enclosure. Digi-Key - HM959-ND (Manufacturer - 1591CTCL)

The copper is .125" thick, .75" wide, and is the 4.2" long.
It is the same thickness as the enclosure so it fits perfect!
Yeah running @ 125°F for long periods of time on power supply destroyed my clear coat so it doesn't look pretty anymore :-(

Thanks for the enclosure link now there are a couple enclosures on the way to my shop.

MISTERWILLING said:

Heres a Link for the enlclosure. Keep in mind I had to make a few mods to the enclosure to get it to fit well. I only have three mounting legs in my enclosure. Digi-Key - HM959-ND (Manufacturer - 1591CTCL)

The copper is .125" thick, .75" wide, and is the 4.2" long.
It is the same thickness as the enclosure so it fits perfect!
Yeah running @ 125°F for long periods of time on power supply destroyed my clear coat so it doesn't look pretty anymore :-(

Click to expand...

MISTERWILLING said:

Heres a Link for the enlclosure. Keep in mind I had to make a few mods to the enclosure to get it to fit well. I only have three mounting legs in my enclosure.

Click to expand...

I was able to fit it all in that box without taking out the leg.



My mounting hole for the kit is higher and more forward giving you more room in the back for the battery pack. The beam has more of an angle coming out of the box which seemed undesirable at first but actually works out well for projecting.


I like most that your box is all sealed up rather than vented like mine is. 135F is as hot as I would want the regulators to get and it looks like that copper strip is enough to keep it below that point.

Good point, I mounted my sled to the lid not in the best place. Also notice my green module is a bit longer than yours. That was what eventually caused me to move the battery back. I wanted a good bit of clearance between the laser and the battery as to not throw off the alignment.