Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!






I'll be stocking the 16.5mm BenBoost's on my site. If anyone would like to preorder you can here BenBoost 16.5mm driver it would take about 2-4 weeks for the PCB's to arrive to me as they are quite unpredictable most of the time but I'll have them all ready to ship within 2 days of me receiving them. I've set a limit of 100 drivers for the checkout so I'll only be taking 100 orders for the preorders ;) I've gotten permission to do this just to let everyone know.

They are 12$ + shipping ;)
 
I'll be stocking the 16.5mm BenBoost's on my site. If anyone would like to preorder you can here BenBoost 16.5mm driver it would take about 2-4 weeks for the PCB's to arrive to me as they are quite unpredictable most of the time but I'll have them all ready to ship within 2 days of me receiving them. I've set a limit of 100 drivers for the checkout so I'll only be taking 100 orders for the preorders ;) I've gotten permission to do this just to let everyone know.

They are 12$ + shipping ;)

That is great news! If I could offer some unasked for advice, do you think you could offer more options between 450mA and 600mA?

For Blu ray builds that is a pretty sweet spot. From my asking and looking around, 450mA is safe 475mA is still probably ok, 500mA is still within the realm of sanity, and then there are those who are willing to play hard and die hard with 525-600mA builds.

Just a thought. :)
 
If it was me doing this, I would include a half dozen resistors and not set the drivers ahead of time. Everyone can hand solder a single SMD 0805 resistor, especially on these boards (they're not that tight).

The set resistors for these are like 10 cents each. So include five common ones that can get good current targets, and save yourself a lot of headache for the additional cost of $0.50 cents worth of resistors.
 
Probably a stupid question. But when "Preset" drivers are sold, what voltage drop are they tested with?

If they are tested for 445, then we could be under powering our 405, or overpowering our Red builds.

Right? :confused:
 
Probably a stupid question. But when "Preset" drivers are sold, what voltage drop are they tested with?

If they are tested for 445, then we could be under powering our 405, or overpowering our Red builds.

Right? :confused:

No. These are constant current drivers.
 
So no matter which diode we use, the current stays the same? If so, then why do we need different settings on test loads?

I'm lost. :confused:
 
So no matter which diode we use, the current stays the same? If so, then why do we need different settings on test loads?

I'm lost. :confused:

To test whether your battery / driver combination can actually hit the required output voltage of your diode at the current you've set.
 
If it was me doing this, I would include a half dozen resistors and not set the drivers ahead of time. Everyone can hand solder a single SMD 0805 resistor, especially on these boards (they're not that tight).

The set resistors for these are like 10 cents each. So include five common ones that can get good current targets, and save yourself a lot of headache for the additional cost of $0.50 cents worth of resistors.

I really like this as an option. Those who are worried about soldering could by the pre-made drivers at a set current, those willing to do a little soldering would have lots more flexibility by getting everything except the resistor(s) pre-made.


Ah I see.

EDIT: 100th post and I'm still a noob. :(

I feel like that with over a thousand! Don't feel bad, most of us have compartments of smart or ability and when you branch out from there you have to ask questions that others seem to know intuitively. At least you are branching out! That's the way I rationalize it anyway. :D
 
Last edited:
If it was me doing this, I would include a half dozen resistors and not set the drivers ahead of time. Everyone can hand solder a single SMD 0805 resistor, especially on these boards (they're not that tight).

The set resistors for these are like 10 cents each. So include five common ones that can get good current targets, and save yourself a lot of headache for the additional cost of $0.50 cents worth of resistors.

That is great news! If I could offer some unasked for advice, do you think you could offer more options between 450mA and 600mA?

For Blu ray builds that is a pretty sweet spot. From my asking and looking around, 450mA is safe 475mA is still probably ok, 500mA is still within the realm of sanity, and then there are those who are willing to play hard and die hard with 525-600mA builds.

Just a thought. :)


I'll add some inbetween 450 and 700 ;)

Ill also have an option where you can supply your own resistors, that option will cost 1$ less. :beer:
 
Anyone have any luck finding a good place to buy the LM3410?
Seems like the only place that isn't out of stock or with a minimum quantity of 500 is mouser, but those are priced at $3.33 each!
 
Anyone have any luck finding a good place to buy the LM3410?
Seems like the only place that isn't out of stock or with a minimum quantity of 500 is mouser, but those are priced at $3.33 each!

farnell has them, at more than 100pcs you can get to less than 3 bucks each.
 
Anyone have any luck finding a good place to buy the LM3410?
Seems like the only place that isn't out of stock or with a minimum quantity of 500 is mouser, but those are priced at $3.33 each!

LM3410XQMF/NOPB - NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR - IC, LED DRVR, 5-SOT-23 | Newark

$2.28 each if you order 25.

Q-series is automotive certified which offers higher quality assurance and good heat tolerance.

I was told these are usable in this driver. I hope so, I bought a few.
 





Back
Top