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FrozenGate by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!

I just baught 25 from digi. I know it's more expensive but I couldnt find them in stock other places. still waiting on the caps and inductors...
 





I hate having to pay more then $3 for these. You think if we did a group buy we could hit 1000 at 1.75 each?

I know I'd be in for 100.
 
Wonder how something so shiny can absorb that much power to melt... Maybe the flux inside helped? :p
 
Baught a toaster oven today at the flea market that has convection and 4 elements it's a hamilton beach. I thaught it would be perfect. Now just to put a controler on it...DIY it was 15$ and it is large.
6800-new-toster-soon-reflow-oven.jpg
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Hey, rhd, can we get a 3d render of the round boards? And what components most need heatsinking at higher currents?
 
Hey, rhd, can we get a 3d render of the round boards? And what components most need heatsinking at higher currents?

I didn't make the 3D board -that was Ben.

Though anyone interested can create 3D renders. Just use Eagle and POVRAY.
 
I have no idea how to use those. :undecided:

During summer I'm going to take some electronics classes at my college. :evil:
I didn't make the 3D board -that was Ben.

Though anyone interested can create 3D renders. Just use Eagle and POVRAY.
 
Hello

I just bought two ben boost driver.

connected in parall results in a current value of 1.8A.

individually run them quite well diode with an m140.

as soon as I turn this parallel laser diode starts to flicker!

what can I do?

as a current source I've tried a 16 340 and 18650 battery.

both lead to the same unsatisfactory result.

best ever, thanks in advance.
 
as soon as I turn this parallel laser diode starts to flicker!

what can I do?

as a current source I've tried a 16 340 and 18650 battery.

I don't know where you got the idea that a 16340 could run two parallel boost drivers set to provide 1.8A of output ;)

Moist 16450s are around 500mAh in capacity, and most lithium ions can do around 2 or 3C safely. Doing the math, your cells can probably provide 1 to 1.5A consistently. If you're trying to boost to 1.8A, that's a dead give away that it won't work. You need more input current than the boosted output, not less.

The answer to your question, is to use better batteries ;)

You *might* be able to get away with an 18650, if it's an AW IMR, but even then, I'm skeptical. I haven't actually found the AW IMRs to be capable of huge current draw. They certainly have a higher C rate than other cells, but they also have about half the capacity. So while I DO think that an AW IMR leaves you a bit further ahead in the end (current wise), I don't think it's that much more substantial than if you just went with a true 3100mAh 18650 from a good manufacturer.

But ya, long story short, get bigger/better batteries :)
 
@ rhd

Thank you for your quick response back and very good!

I have this now understand that 1.8a is too much for small batteries.

I would like to buy a saik sa-305 housing, with heat sink and a 32650 battery.

you would have one for me?

what would this cost including shipping in the Switzerland?

Please write me privately at fantasia@besonet.ch

Thank you and see you soon.

best greetings

fantasia
 
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I think I'd love a mosaic nand housing too. It sounds cool!

Unfortunately, i have no idea what that is ;)
 





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