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I've been fiddling with them for a couple years.
Couple things to watch for. They will probably sell you a dc power supply instead of ac. (Guessing) If they sell you a dc power supply for your hene you will need a power plug that converts a/c into whatever voltage level the dc power supply needs and can handle enough current. (aka wal-wart, switching power supply, etc).
Usually the best place is a thrift store or bargain bin with used electrical parts. You can usually get one for about $5-10. Look for the DC output (needs to match) and the current capability (needs to exceed the draw of the hene power supply.
These things run anywhere from 1000-3500 volt range (this one is 2800v). It will kick you very well if you are not careful. It won't kill you, but it will ruin your day and probably make you drop or throw the tube. Be extra careful. Especially, if you haven't dealt with high voltage circuits.
Also, the power supply usually has a very high capacitance level. Also the tube itself can act as a capacitor and shock you even when it's unplugged. Keep this in mind. If you touch both ends of the power supply after it has been running you will probably get a good jolt. Same applies to the tube, but it is more of a milder tingle and twich instead of a jolt.
They are very cool looking. Even for the low mw they look awesome.
power supply, ballast resistor, tube are all you really need.
One other thing. If you are doing your own wiring and not using the alden connectors (or in the future) Make sure you use high voltage silicone wire for the feed wires from the power supply to the tube itself. And mount the ballast resistor within 3" of the tube.
Let me know what they get you for a power supply. I don't have one for this tube yet.
Thanks for your advice!
Here is the PSU Chad said he was talking about: http://www.mi-lasers.com/stock/eBay/F-27b.jpg
It takes 24V - 30V DC input, supplies 2300V - 3200V and 5.5mA, Voltex model F-27-19 (as per label), $95.
I'm not sure if it will be suitable, though. The specs on the label say that it will supply 5.5mA, but the data in the listing for the tube says that the tube requires 6mA - 7mA, with 6.5mA being ideal. Also, the start votltage required is 12KV. Can a PSU that supplies 2300V - 3200V (as is also listed on the label of that PSU) do this (give a start voltage of 12KV)? If he said that it will suit that tube, then, hopefully it should... but I can't help wondering.
I've not done much with HV so far, but I have done a lot of general electronics work. I am planning to start building a Tesla coil very soon, though; so I was about to go there, anyway.
I'd heard about the tubes acting as capacitors, too. I'll be sure to watch out for that. Is it advisable to discharge the capacitance in the tubes and the capacitors of the PSU by short circuiting them, or is this specifically NOT advisable for any reason?
As far as the wiring goes, I asked him and he said he said he can also supply a male Alden connector. How exactly does this connect to the tube? Is there some sort of clip attached to them that is fairly standard? I have seen some clips that sort of clip around the ends of the tube and have the wires attached to them. Also, will the ballast resistor generally be included in the wiring on the connector, or will this also need to be attached?
I'm very much looking forward to getting this. The whole idea of gas lasers is just fascinating!
Thanks again for your post!
Cheers,
Adam
Yeah, I figured DC.
As for using with 5.5ma power supply, I would assume that Meredith would know what would work with their tubes. But it would make me nervous. Maybe someone else with more experience can tell you for sure.
I priced the A/C ones new from their site and they are $299.00 which is a bit pricey for me.
Reading Sam's Laser faq - Sam suggests not shorting out the power supply directly but using a string of resistors, IIRC. You might look it up on there. He implied that directly shorting could damage the PS.
The last group of tubes I got a couple years ago were used and had Alden connectors on the power supply and matching connectors from the tube. They are basically plug and play that way. This one doesn't come with any connectors so you would have to buy the matching alden connector with wiring for this tube. I would just buy some HV silicone wire from ebay and use that instead, probably cheaper
From the power supply use a wire nut and connect enough HV sllicone wire for what you need for the positive and negative. On the anode end attach the ballast resistor to the slicone wire and then solder one of the clips to that to be able to attach it to the tube. On the other end, solder the silicone wire to the clip and attach the clip to the cathode end. There are clips attached to the tube on both ends when you get it.
That being finished and wiring your ac/dc wall wart correctly and you are good to go.
I just finished a little night light that I did that with in an oak enclosure.
I'll have a thread in the next day or so.
A lot. Really. 543.5 is a 'lime green' while 532 is a 'deep green'. After seeing 543.5 (Which is brighter to the eye than even 532, per mW) - 532 looks almost blue-green.
For $100 (!) , I think everyone here should get one, even if you don't know how to power it quite yet. You will later, and you won't regret it.
If I didn't have like eight 543.5 HeNe's, i'd be picking up two of these tonight... (Still may...)
Now, if only MI did OBO on their 594 HeNe's......
****************************And of course other members here.![]()
I"m hoping this seller continues to sell this things. I want one, but it's going to have to wait for awhile. I've mostly got my rainbow of handhelds on the way, with a couple of more rare exceptions, so it's on to either labs or gases next.
I'm up for a group buy![]()
I may go for it... 55$ + 25$ shipping isn't bad for 3 tubes.
Edit: Was going to bid on it, looks like international shipping isn't available![]()