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ARCTIC HOST feeler! interested? READ

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I love how Wicked Lasers is disliked so much here that we have resorted to making our own rip-offs of their lasers. :crackup:

You can count me in for one as long as the cost stays below $100.

I have high hopes for where this is going :umbrella:
 

jakeGT

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I love how Wicked Lasers is disliked so much here that we have resorted to making our own rip-offs of their lasers. :crackup:

You can count me in for one as long as the cost stays below $100.

I have high hopes for where this is going :umbrella:

My good sir, wicked lasers is the ripoff, the ripoff of how this laser should have been done I'n the first place, were just taking it into our own hands to make a cool looking awesome, high quality laser!
 
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My good sir, wicked lasers is the ripoff, the ripoff of how this laser should have been done I'n the first place, were just taking it into our own hands to make a cool looking awesome, high quality laser!
Here here! :gh:

The rendering looks like the inner workings of a gun.
 

jib77

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Ok heres my Voltage monitor attempt. It has the LTC1440 IC set for 2.9V(using datasheet example). When the battery voltage is above the threshold the LED will be green, when its below it will change to red. I also made provisions for a momentary side clicky, this would go to the driver's enable/ttl pin. You will still need to engage the tail clicky to turn the system on, and pressing the button will enable the driver, thus firing the laser. This would be optional ... if not included the board can be made 1/2 as long. Right now it measures 0.4"x1". The LED will have a light pipe that fits over the top so it can route the light through the host wall: >>lightpipe<<

Schematic:


Layout:


Size comparison, the button on the green driver pictured will be similar to what will be on this board:
 
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rhd

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Can I make a suggestion - and perhaps this was already the intention:

- Would someone here do a GB on the parts necessary for this additional circuitry? (Or alternatively, put them together and sell them)

For everyone who wants this addition to their host, to have to go out and source these electronic components one-by-one, is really inefficient shipping and cost wise. At the very least it would be cool if one person would order 25x (or whatever) of each component, and sell a "kit" of all the parts required to create the circuit.
 

Bobby

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I also made provisions for a momentary side clicky
Understanding you said the side-clicky is optional, one would hope it could be either momentary or click/reverse-click at the builder's discretion. I personally do not want a momentary - my thumb is still sore from the IQS momentary buttons, and I have found them to generally be inconsistent (how much pressure, etc.).
 

rhd

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Based on the nature of jib77's clicky implementation (triggering the TTL input on the driver), you could use either type of switch.

I'm not 100% certain, but my understanding is that a switch that connects to a TTL input on the driver, wouldn't actually be handling the entire laser diode's current. Thus, you shouldn't have to worry about using a high current clicky / switch either.

Right? Wrong? lol
 

jib77

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Can I make a suggestion - and perhaps this was already the intention:

- Would someone here do a GB on the parts necessary for this additional circuitry? (Or alternatively, put them together and sell them)

For everyone who wants this addition to their host, to have to go out and source these electronic components one-by-one, is really inefficient shipping and cost wise. At the very least it would be cool if one person would order 25x (or whatever) of each component, and sell a "kit" of all the parts required to create the circuit.
It was indeed my intention to run it like a GB, plus usually 10-25 is the point at which parts start getting volume discounts. I was planning on assembling them, but should I leave them as DIY kits?

Based on the nature of jib77's clicky implementation (triggering the TTL input on the driver), you could use either type of switch.

I'm not 100% certain, but my understanding is that a switch that connects to a TTL input on the driver, wouldn't actually be handling the entire laser diode's current. Thus, you shouldn't have to worry about using a high current clicky / switch either.

Right? Wrong? lol
Correct! With a TTL signal you are talking tens of milliamps ... In the case of the LTC1440 output 40mA max.
 
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Leodahsan

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I have a simple schematic for a circuit that simulates a VU meter. He uses diodes v.drop to turn leds off, like 4.2v 3 led on, 3.8v 2 led on, 3.4v 1 led on. Dunno if it works tho, someone designed it and I haven't tried. It mainly uses resistors, 3 transistors and leds.
 

jib77

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I have a simple schematic for a circuit that simulates a VU meter. He uses diodes v.drop to turn leds off, like 4.2v 3 led on, 3.8v 2 led on, 3.4v 1 led on. Dunno if it works tho, someone designed it and I haven't tried. It mainly uses resistors, 3 transistors and leds.
I can see that working but not being as precise because of the tolerance and variability of the diodes forward current instead of a precision feedback loop.
 

Leodahsan

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Is there that much precision needed? All my diodes have 0.4v drop, some 0.39 and others 0.42 :thinking:
 

jib77

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Is there that much precision needed? All my diodes have 0.4v drop, some 0.39 and others 0.42 :thinking:
But Vfw changes with current and temperature, its not linear, and there is also manufacturing variability ... so theoretically two of the same part can have different Vdrop at the same current.

This is for a 0.4Vfw diode, as you can see it can go up to 1.2Vfw:
 

Leodahsan

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Oh yeah. I forgot that, sorry. There are other types of diodes that may have a better curve, tho? Maybe more expensive, but cheaper than a whole feedback loop?
 

rhd

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Oh, I definitely don't want to discourage you from assembling them.

That would be awesome :)

EDIT: Sorry, somehow I answered an earlier question without noticing the volume of subsequent chatter. Ignore the above ^ comments. I was just giving my thumbs-up to jib77's idea of actually assembling the circuits for us.
 

JimBolder

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It was indeed my intention to run it like a GB, plus usually 10-25 is the point at which parts start getting volume discounts. I was planning on assembling them, but should I leave them as DIY kits?
A GB would be a great idea.

And it's probably better for you to assemble them, since anybody short of a surgeon with a soldering iron will find soldering SMDs a pain in the ass.
 

skygear

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If these pan out soon. I'm in. My 2 boys want to build a laser with me and again if they pan out before the end of the month, I'll get 3. their birthdays are at the beginning of March and thats the intended gifts for them and myself.

otherwise a genuine S3 for them it is...
 
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